I have an X1C and printing with non-Bambu PETG and I can’t seem to get PETG to stick to the engineering plate. Small perimeters especially don’t stick well. I’ve tried slowing down the speed and a few other things but it just won’t stick. Any suggestions or advice on how to get it to lay down properly?
I also have the textured PEI plate and this same filament sticks well and prints very well on that plate, but I like the feel of the engineering plate for a first layer that isn’t as rough as the textured plate.
No, I hate glue.
I’m used to the Prusa Satin plate. PETG sticks really well to it when hot but completely lifts off when cool. The Bambu textured PEI plate behaves the same way so I’ll use that if I need to. I’ve also read of other people using the engineering plate without glue and working fine. I was just hoping I could get the finish of the engineering plate but if I can’t oh well.
I recently had good success on the engineering plate using Aqua Net hairspray. I’ve had decent results before with using nothing, but there’d always be a corner or two that would curl up. Aqua Net fixed that.
Did you calibrate your filament? I used the textured PEI with Prusament PETG, but it only started sticking on the plate once I adjusted the values (most prominently the extrusion multiplier from the Generic PETG of 0.95 to 1.05). Also PA (I think you can change that value only in OrcaSlicer) was way of.
PETG will lift off, if you don’t skip cooling of the first 3 layers in the cooling setting. I have tested it several times and the setting must be “skip cooling of the first 3 layers”. The min temp of the bed must be 70 degrees and the noozle temp must be at least 230 degrees for PETG. Can you please try my settings and let me know if that helped?
Thanks for the replies. I’m using Paramount PETG. I will try some of these ideas and update this thread. Right off the bat though, I’m thinking experimenting with the extrusion multiplier and pressure advance will be key. I have not done any calibration other than the printer auto bed leveling and flow calibration, so I’ll do that first.
I’m not sure if you’ve taken the time to read, but I mentioned that the textured plate works just fine, no problems. I want to use the Engineering plate, and that’s what I’m having trouble with. Also, the default setting is for “no cooling for the first 3 layers” and that’s what I have always used on every plate so far.
Unfortunately, the Bambu plates are designed to work best with glue stick or other similar/traditional adhesion/release agents. Hairspray or Windex has worked great for some, and Bambu also makes a liquid glue now too.
I use the Wham Bam plate for a glue-free alternative, but PETG is one where it can stick TOO good and Wham Bam recommends…wait for it… glue stick… Well, they suggest glue stick if their other advice does not work for you like lowering the temp from the default PETG filament profile and raising the z-offset in gcode to not squish it into the plate as hard. I have been using the default PETG-CF profile and it has released OK, although I have had to spend some time with some 000 steel wool and some IPA to work off bits of stubborn nano-adhesion spots. Regular PETG I lowered the filament temps in a copy of the generic profile and it released fine without adjusting gcode (at least for my Sunlu PETG).
Yes, Finsterwald is correct.
Ensure Eng plate is free of manufacturer oils by cleaning with Windex and water.
Then wipe with IPA.
No part cooling for 3 or more layers (eliminate part cooling all together if possible)
Nozzle temp 230 plus (try 250, depends on speed)
Bed temp 70 plus (try 80).
As always when you get trouble on first layer not sticking, try to reduce the first layer infill speed (to something like 30mm/s), this may help a lot.
Yeah, I still don’t try to mess with G-Code directly but it is a valuable hint 
