There is no best setting, 105mm/s works well for most PLA, but if you got some sticking problem with a filament, you can try to lower to 30mm/s to check if it come from the speed, then if it works you know the problem come from the speed for this filament and can try a bit faster than 30mm/s.
Thanks for the replies everyone. I wanted to update this thread to report what has worked for me (so far). Here’s what I did:
- Very lightly wiped the engineering plate with a magic eraser
- Washed with dish soap
- Wiped with IPA
- Set first layer speed to 30mm/s
- Set bed temp to 80C
I’ve done a few prints and so far it’s printing well on the engineering plate.
I also wanted to report something with the high temperature plate. I pretty much wrote that one off because everything I read said that one MUST use glue with the high temp plate and PETG. When I couldn’t get the engineering plate to print well I tried a print on the high temp plate with glue and the part simply lifted off when cool, almost no adhesion at all. So I tried the same print again WITHOUT glue and it printed very well and still came right off the plate without any need to flex etc. It just popped off when the plate was cool. So I printed several other parts in PETG with the high temp plate and they all came out well and no problems at all getting them off the plate.
Perhaps the PETG I am using (Paramount) doesn’t stick as well as other PETG brands, and that’s why I was having issue with the engineering plate, and why the high temp plate does not need glue to work well. Who knows.
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after several tests with Extrudr PETG filament (www.extrudr.com), I get the best results with the following settings:
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I used to use the textured plate from bambu, but without the LIDAR scanner and the first layer inspection (not possible with the textured plate because of the surface), I have the impression that my print quality is overall better and more consistent with the engineering plate
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So I swapped the textured plate and replaced it by the egineering plate. I use the liquired glue from bambu instead of the glue stick, as I feel that the liquid is easier to add on the surface
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With the following settings, I get very consistence quality and have no warping, spagetti or any other issues:
The only thing I changed from the generic PETG is the temps of the noozle and the flow rate. I did not mess with the cooling setup:
Note:
a) I clean the engineering plate every 3 - 4 prints with Isoprop.
b) Right after that I add the liquied glue
c) The mix of Isoprop along with the luqied glue creates a very good adhesion layer and with the glue, the prints are very easy to remove and they dont burn into the plate
Based on my experience, the engineering plate is better than the textured plate. Sure you dont need glue for the textured plate, but at what cost? You skip the LIDAR scanner and first layer inspecation. You paid for that and dont want to skip it right?
I also experience similiar issue with engineering plate for petg. Tried alot of methods like raising temperature, glue or without glue. Even clean with IPA or wash with soap, petg VERY EASILY DETACH.
I found a method which can let petg to stick strongly, but please use with cautious. Wipe the engineering plate with thinner (do not wipe the area with marker cause this solven will remove the marker.
Yes, Finsterwald is correct, using the Bambu Labs petg basic, I have had success with using rubbing alcohol to wipe the engineering plate clean after -every- petg print. I also have the first layer nozzle temp at 170 bet temp at 70. HIH
Had similar issues with Polymaker PETG. The first step was to use higher temperature for printing bed (80 degrees). Second thing was use of DimaFix adhesive spray. Treated once, and after that is was good enough to stick without additional coating.
Also, this is the nice tread about PETG settings:
could not get my PETG to stick to the engineering plate. This Aqua net trick saved the day!! thanks man!
cant seem to find this setting ?
Ok found this and the setting is set to no cooling first three layers and still having problem not sticking to plate. 
I’ve been using Esun white PETG, and initially, it wouldn’t adhere to any of the plates, despite thorough cleaning. However, I managed to get good results using a textured plate heated to 80°C with an initial layer speed of 10mm/s. Next, I plan to test the engineering plate using the same settings to see if it yields similar success.
I print with mostly PETG (many brands) using the engineering plate. I have standard settings that work with them all. So I don’t re-slice for each brand.
First, I set the bed temperature to 80C.
Second, if your using the hardened steel nozzle, you need to up the temperature of the nozzle by 20C. I run it at 265C. All the filament manufacturer’s told me the same thing, that the temperature they suggest is for brass nozzles. They conduct heat better than hardened steel. I also use Vision Minor’s Nono Polymer adhesive for a sticking and release agent. I have found it works really well. It is expensive up front, but I only have to treat the surface once every 30 or more prints, so the cost is not an issue. The only time I clean with IPA is when I treat with the Nano Polymer Adhesive. I just remove the print and sometimes wipe it with a micro fiber cloth.
Lastly, keep the nozzle clean. If it is not, it can fool the bed leveling algorithm and it doesn’t push the filament down onto the bed enough to connect to the adhesive. Once I started started doing the aforementioned things, this was the only issue I had. Once I started doing this, I can’t remember the last time I had an issue with a print not sticking and I don’t use brims.
I too had the problem with Bambu Basic PETG not sticking to the Bambu Engineering Plate with my X1C. I am using the Bambu filament standard profile for Bambu Basic PETG with NO glue stick.
What solved it for me I believe was two things:
- Clean the build plate with soap and water with a follow wipe down of IPA
- LEFT the DOOR OPEN on my X1C.
Prints no problem, no glue and slides off when print is complete and cooled.
After printing, filaments have invisible waste, especially gaseous waste accumulates on the plate. I use cellulosic thinner. It really works, I haven’t tried alcohol yet. But I’ve been having a really big problem with Bamboo PETG lately. Especially the first layer problem. I’ve also been having problems in the summer months, because the ambient temperature was too high, I solved this problem by leaving the cabin door open, and I started printing at night. Now that we’re approaching winter, new problems have started to arise.
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There seems to be a small detail that we all miss. The grease that we apply to the moving parts inside the printer! When printing at high temperatures, there is a possibility that the grease will evaporate and get on the plate. Therefore, it may be useful to clean the plate with a degreasing chemical after each print, especially alcohol or cellulose thinner. I used cellulose thinner, it really works on the PEI plate. It increases the adhesion ability.
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In my case, my printer was located in the room, that in the autumn got too chill, and PETG started to spin and not to stick on the plate. So warming up the room to 18C solved my problem.
I had a similar issue as my workshop is usually only heated to about 13° C in winter. Instead of raising the temperature of the whole shop I preheat the chamber of my X1C with the heat bed. Ten to fifteen minutes at 90°C will warm up the chamber to about 27° and then I can print normally.
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in these circumstances, you do keep chamber doors closed when printing?
When the shop is cold, I do start with the door closed and top in place, but I keep an eye on the chamber temperature. If it goes above the low to mid 30’s (PLA &PETG) I’ll open the door a bit or prop up the lid a little.
My time in the workshop varies quite bit. Some days it might just be a few minutes in and out to start and retrieve a print. There are weeks I don’t use the shop at all. It is just not worth heating the shop all the time. If I’ll be out there for more than a couple hours, or will be using glue/paint, I’ll raise the temp to 16-18°C.