Can't print Bambu Lab Basic PETG on X1C!

Hello everyone, :slightly_smiling_face:

After several weeks of testing Bambu Lab’s PETG filaments, I can’t seem to find the optimal settings to get my prints right every time.

Background:

A few months ago, I bought 2 spools of Bambu Lab PETG filaments (white and blue) at the same time as an X1C printer.

Being a beginner in 3D printing, I started by printing PLA from Bambu Lab and other brands, respecting the recommended parameters and I had no problems.

I then tried printing PETG parts and that’s when I started having problems.

Problems encountered:

As you can see from the first photos, I had several problems:

When I had these problems, I used the printing parameters recommended by Bambu Lab for their own filament. I was also printing with the front door open and the top glass window slightly ajar.

Filament testing:

Following these problems, I tried to find solutions on this forum and the items that came up most often were filament printing temperature, ventilation and filament humidification.

First, I disassembled the nozzle to clean it, then I tried to find the right settings for my filaments. To do this, I printed out a temperature tower and a ventilation tower. I then realized that increasing the temperature beyond the recommended parameters, i.e. >260°C, gave better results. Similarly for ventilation, the best results were obtained at speeds >90%.

Imposing a print temperature of 270°C and 90% ventilation, the blue filament printed perfectly, as shown in the photo below, which compares Bambu Lab’s default settings for their Basic PETG (right) with the new settings I tried (left) :

However, this was not the case with the white filament.
As I could hear bubbles popping when it was extruded, I proceeded to dry the filament in a dry oven at 65°C for 8 hours. After the drying, the filament was finally printing properly.

At this point I thought I’d found the right parameters to put the problems behind me. Unfortunately, 3 weeks later I tried to print a part with the blue filament and I had the same problems as in the beginning (filament sticking to the nozzle, filling defect, etc.). As I hadn’t dried it, I thought the filament might have hydrated, so I spent 8 hours at 65°C.

After that, the filament finally printed correctly.

At this point I thought I’d found the right parameters to put the problems behind me. Unfortunately, 3 weeks later I tried to print a part with the blue filament and I had the same problems as at the beginning (filament sticking to the nozzle, filling defect, etc.). As I hadn’t dried it, I thought the filament might have hydrated, so I spent 8 hours at 65°C, as I had done with the white filament.

However, as you can see from the last photo, this didn’t solve the problem and I still can’t print properly with this filament.

Conclusion:

I don’t know how to print PETG properly. I wouldn’t dare recommend it until I’ve figured out how to print it perfectly with the X1C, but I’m at a loss at this stage.

In case you’re wondering, I store my reels in Bambu Lab’s AMS, which gives me good hygrometry.

Thank you for taking the time to read my long message so far, and I’m grateful in advance for your help. :heart_hands:

Léopold

Those are classic signs of wet PETG filament. Dry for 12 hours, store in air tight containers with lots of desiccant packs, do not store in AMS as it is not air tight.

image
That IS a Classic: WET filament.

Thanks for your reply !
That is what I thought but after 2 round of drying, this white filament still stick to the nozzle…

Thanks for your reply!

It makes sense that the white filament was wet since after the drying process the print was better (with some filament still stuck to the nozzle though), but for the blue filament I’m not sure.

Indeed, at the beginning, the spool was stored in an airtight plastic container with desiccant and I had the same problem. I just received the AMS in mid-December.

Also, the drying process didn’t solve the problem like changing the parameters did in the first place. I could try a 12h drying but I don’t know if it will change much compared to an 8h drying knowing that I have less than 500g of filament left to dry on the spool.

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Thanks for your reply Lucyna and for the video!
As Thomas explains, the filaments suffer from moisture even for just a few days outside a dry box, but it can still print them without the kind of huge problem I have that forces the printer to stop.
I assume that I do something wrong with the parameters and I have not figure what…
What do you recommend based on your experience ?
Thank you in advance

I personaly use for all projects gyroid as infill. It IS much better than the other types of infill-pattern.

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Ok I will try this type of infill.
Do you think it will correct my printing discontinuity problem for the infill?
You can’t see it clearly in the photos, but the filament sometimes pops out vertically when the nozzle prints the infill pattern. I managed to solve this problem by increasing the temperature and ventilation, but a few weeks later the same problem recurs. I don’t know whether this problem is due to the fill pattern or to other printing parameters.

This is gyroid. I can only recommend to try IT.:grin:

I have the same problem with Bambu Lab PETG… in my case its not a problem with the filament being “wet”… fresh filament, old filament, freshly dried filament… always the same.
I either have to slow down my print speed or ramp up the temperature for everything except the first layer from 255°C to 270°C (yes I know… that’s a extreme) … This is the only way I was able to solve this issue and now PETG prints perfectly.

It seems for me that the nozzle is not able to melt the PETG good enough at full (normal) speed.

Thanks for your reply darktooth !

So you print all your parts (except the first layer) at 270°C and you have no more problems? At what speed do you print? Also, what % ventilation do you use?

As mentioned in my first post, going up to 270°C print temperature and 90% ventilation gave me clean prints at first, but now I’m back to the same problems…

I print everything with default settings LeoPrinting… I only change the temperature for “Other layers” from 255°C to 270°C. Without the change its a complete mess and everything crumbles away… with this change I have a smooth print

That’s what I did but I still have issues :smiling_face_with_tear:

Don’t you have filament sticking to the nozzle ?

Sorry to hear that… seems you have a different (additional) problem then. Solves my issues completely to increase the temperature :frowning: