Chamber heater for P1S or X1C - off the shelf solution is ready to go?

Just came across this chamber heater on aliexpress
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007720081895.html?


It has AC main PTC heater. It is a bit risky to run AC main heater, but this has off-the-shelf temp-controller that widely used so I think it is going to be OK.

Look very neat actually.

Just for US$37, your P1S would have the active heated chamber feature that only X1E has. Just need to replace hot-end and extruder with hardened steel ones and then you are golden.

The only down side is you have to turn off this manually.

I’ve built one. I found them really not all that useful unless you were printing the more technical filaments. The P1S can get to 55-60 with little effort on it’s own.

These use the same parts that I used to build one. I did not like the Mains power, and control was iffy. While I know the printer holds heat, the controller would switch on and off rapidly trying to keep the temp up. Thinking I hada a defective part I reordered and encountered the same thing.

Nothing is stopping you, go ahead. Good luck.

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Yeah, I figured. I’m happy with my setup: P1S inside insulated enclosure. I can print ABS/ASA comfortably, no chamber pre-heat at all. My end game is to print nylon 6.

Tried PA6 once. It warped like bastard and deformed the garolite plate (aliexpress tk99) permanently.

Just bought 32 rolls of PETG from warehouse clearance, AU$8 a roll (or US$5.2). I think I have over 50 rolls in stock (PETG + PLA + ABS).

Now I think about this, I am addicted to 3D printer part shopping. I need therapy…

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You acknowledged your addiction - that is the first step to recovery and staying sober.
You also realised that you need help - that is a vital second step…
Now all you need is a few more printers to forget about the first two sentences…

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yes bro that exactly . last month got some promo from my friend in local shop . pla pro MYR50-65 , pla cf MYR70 , petg pro MYR 45-60 , petg cf MYR80 , sparkle asa & abs+ MYR60-80 . then i bought 15 rolls pla pro , 10 rolls pla cf , 36 rolls petg pro , 10 rolls petg cf , 18 rolls abs+ , 20 rolls asa . and guess what ? found it bambulab got dropped it price . a week later i bring out 80% of my saving buying 4 units x1c combo 2 units a1 combo … and now im struggling setup my workplace for those another new printer hahahaha , and plus my wife keep nagging with my greedy .

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If they left out a thermal switch it needs one added in case fan fails. And I am not a fan of the mains power at all.

The wires in their pictures are super thin. At mains level, they only carry an amp or two, but it needs to be a jacketed cord, not thin wires.

I have been printing with PA6-CF extensively on my P1S for the last year, are you referring to the plain nylon filaments?

I was really close to adding a heater to my x1c. Even ordered one. Then I thought to myself, a printer with a built in heater is cheaper than a burned down house.

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Yes, I tried with PA natural and PA black, both warped badly. I do have 1 roll of PA6-CF anyhow. I know PA6-CF do reduce warp significally but feel no desire to use it.

I understand that, it’s way too expensive to waste on random things off makerworld. The CF also makes it abrasive and unattractive for certain applications where nylon is normally used. It is very easy to print however, might even say easier than PLA.

For those who are still considering don’t do it. I bought one for my P1S and looked inside and there is no thermal fuse. This is a serious fire hazard. Stupid me did it anyways. The draw from the heater was way too high and popped the 6amp fuse on the first print. Thankfully only out $8 for a fuse but could have been worse. I am returning it right now.

If I was correct, the heater element is PTC, which increases resistance as temperature goes up. This effectively limits the top temperature this thing can get to even without any sort of temperature controlling circuit, e.g: cheap SCR voltage chopper or close loop PID control with themocouple monitoring.

Can you clarify about the 6A fuse thing? Like, you have only 6A fuse inline this heater, or for the whole printer. I know there is a fuse at the power switch on the back of the printer. Is it the one you are talking about?
Secondly, what is your mains voltage, e.g: AC 110v or AC 240v

FIY, The heated bed alone can suck as much as 4A @ 240VAC, which equals to about 1000W. Choosing 6A fuse for 240VAC mains for P1S was a perfect sense. If it adds 2A more for the chamber heater (for the chamber heater is about 400W judging by the size), then I don’t see much a problem there except now it is a poor choice of mains fuse. But P1S was designed not for tinkering in the first place, yes?

I am not trying to defend those cheap chamber heater. I just want to understand.

Edit: I was tempted to get one for printing PA6 (not PA-CF). I already have P1S inside an insulated enclosure so that I even don’t have to heat soak the chamber prior printing ABS. I just simply couldn’t find a build plate that PA6 sticks to, so it is to the back burner.

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