Would it make sense to crank up the heatbed temperature after a job to make it possible to remove a PEGT-CF print, e.g. from 70°C to 85°C? I’ve found it nearly impossible to remove my PETG-CF prints from the structured build plate (much harder than PETG). No amount of flexing and bending after cool-down will make it pop off. I had to use scary amounts of brute force. The Bambu glue stick might be a solution, IDK, but I have none at the moment and the surface stuck to the build plate must later look perfect. No discoloration by glue permitted. I previously tried the increased-temperature approach on supports by pouring 80°C hot water over them & the backside of the plate. That worked, so I aussume that using the build plate to bring the heat might work as well. On the other hand, I can affort to deform some old supports but not the model.
it will not work i dare you to try it with the bed temerature cranked up at the max i think it will rip of the pei coating and damage your plate
Heat is the reason it sticks during the printing process.
Use the flex of the build-plate to help ease it off. I see you say you did this, but it should be the solution on a large part.
You didn’t say which build plate you are using.
its a pei sheet
Look at you with your working eyes!
Well done, I didn’t think to look.
here you have a photo
Dumb suggestion, especially as I haven’t tried it, go the other direction.
Try placing it in the fridge or even the freezer.
yes try that
What they said!
Instead of using the glue stick directly, just dissolve some in water, distribute over the plate evenly, let dry => release film
But with a freezer, you should not need it.
or just try dumping some ice on it (but dont do that when its on the printer) take the build plate on a nother surface and then dump the ice
Heat is the reason it sticks during the printing process
Well, my plan was to go higher than that. This material should begin to weaken at 70-75°C (this is my guess for the HDT, it’s Sunlu’s PETG-CF, they haven’t released a datasheet yet). Doesn’t that mean it’ll loose hold on the plate if I go higher, but not excessively high, for example 85°C?
I can not do the freezer trick at the moment, my fridge’s freezing compartment is filled with pizza. I tried running fairly cold tap water down the backside of the build plate with no success.
I have had good luck with using an upside down can of compressed air spraying the backside of the plate. Prints pop right off.
The heat you will require to free it from the plate is hot enough to deform the bits it touches.
Pizza is important.
Pizza is important.
It occurred to me that I only have to take the pizza out for 10 minutes, so I tried the freezer trick. Plate on bottom of freezer compartment. It was ice-cold afterwards but it didn’t work, the part was still very hard to remove and certainly didn’t pop off. This carbon-filled stuff is weird. It fuses to the plate like crazy (on two occasions, pre-freezer trick, I ripped the lowest surface of the part from the 15% infill pattern) but it doesn’t like to attach to itself. The supports are extremely fragile and yesterday, an edge of the overhang (55° angle) simply fell off during a print. I’ve now ordered the 3DLac spray.
What if you lower the bed temperature 10deg when printing? Then it may not bond as strongly at the outset.
Glue is often misunderstood - it’s most useful purpose can be to create a thin layer of mechanically fragile material that will break up before the bed or your part will.
You might have to wash residue off the bottom of your print. But it will come up.
or just bend the build plate the easiest slotion ever 
The 3DLac spray worked fine. For the first time the SUNLU PETG-CF print came of easily (from the structured PEI plate at 60°C) and there is no visible residue at all to be seen. So far so good. Unfortunately I have more problems with SUNLU’s PETG-CF, this filament drives me crazy, but that’s for another thread.