@BambuLab reach out to this user as these models are potential showcases you could use in promotional material or even offer as some sort of tie-in.
The quality and shear amount of time and effort put in is phenomenal.
If my word is worth anything, I highly recommend these models. I am not a sip person, but, I am massively impressed.
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Think I will create a lighter weight version of the case that is easier to transport onto ships. With a paper or thin plastic back for the sky and then the bottom part becomes a magnetic transport box. Something like this…
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Lightweight version came out pretty well - particularly pleased with the 2d background part. Disappointingly my printer won’t print more than A4 - so I had to put the paper with is A3 width through twice. Tried a few different ways, but eventually settled on two photos that fade from blue to white - so that you can hardly see the transition.
Some earlier attempts at the 2d cardboard sky part - bottom version is with no fading. Top version with fading, but not enough. Dropped the frame from paper print as would be difficult to line up the two prints.
FInal touch - customised Insert to hold Britannia snugly in place while being transported.
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Very cool photos!
The concrete almost makes the photos look fake or stitched together. Just a slight rotation to match the ship and it would be perfect!
Thanks for sharing sharing these.
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Great printer, amazing talent! Very cool to see how your models come to life!
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Agreed, I would have liked to get better angle with some water - but alas the ports on current cruise and weather not ideal for ship photos.
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Now back - made a few corrections based on the comparison with the real ship. Corrected version below.
Main changes are:
- P&O Sign at top,
- Slight increase in height of a few of the top decks
- Filled out detail of retreat section at front.
- Correct the top front windows
Will reprint tomorrow.
Frame case worked fairly well - but the portable part a bit big - so will update it so that it fits more snugly around ship.
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Just started Britannia print - I think it my be my first ever 12 colour print.
27hrs - so will probably take about 3 days with overnight stops etc.
All BL filament apart from the White - eSun Cold White. -
Update. 26/6 8:08.
Paused print for 6.5 hrs overnight - proceeding well - now 47% complete, no issues at all so far.
Only a small amount of waste produced so far
25/6 23:30 almost done - pausing for night
![IMG_7881|206x500]
Disappointing - one part shifted - which wasn’t noticed - but didn’t seem to have an adverse effect. More disappointing though is that the top deck print quality is not good enough - maybe I messed up the supports when I raised the deck height. Might have to rethink these multi day single part prints or at least do a single colour test print first before kicking off such a long print. Will probably split off the top few decks before attempting a reprint - as this will allow parallel printing too.
In the short term will probably just print a patch section to cover up the poor quality deck.
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Plus 1,000,000 for the wake simulations! That makes a very cool display!
Hope you get lots of upgrades!
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Ready to start reprint of Britannia. Have decided to split it into two parts - unfortunately won’t be able to print them in parallel as don’t have enough AMS’s - but at least if one half fails I would only waste one lot of printing.
Will probably add some purge objects - flush ration down from 150% to about 50%
Update: Top decks reprint progressing - looks like all issues resolved
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Britannia Model now on Makerworld
Also see short YouTube Timelapse
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I am sorry to post here in this thread but I can’t figure out how to post anywhere in these forums. I did have the same problem as you in that my prime tower fell over 50 plus hours into my print. Do you know if I can salvage this print? Remove the prime tower for the remaining time left (4 hours)? BTW, I love these ships you have made. How do I post the picture?
Thanks
As a “Basic User” you should be able to post threads and pictures.
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No unfortunately you can’t remove the prime tower mid print. It’s only needed for colour changes so if you haven’t got too many to go you could try letting it prime into mid air and hope that it doesn’t mess up the print.
If not you could try standing it up again and taping it or using magnets to hold it up.
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I took out the tower and let it print into air. I’ll post the finished product.
Thanks so much for the advise
Jim
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I have some very dedicate friends having hobbies that need a lot of time and dedication…
But nothing comes even close to what you do with those ships…
Back in the old days one of my friends made his own slot cars.
Frame milled very thin from Aluminium, the body create by vacuum forming a plastic sheet over a hand carved mould to then be hand painted.
Not really able to compete with them due to the higher weight but very nice to look at when going around the track.
A few years later he was picked up by the company when he showed off his creations at some event.
Having said that:
Did you ever contact those operators with a few pics of your creations to ask for support?
A few detailed pics could go a long way, some 3 sketched or files even further.
And based on your work they should have no objections supplying you with those files.
They do it for Lego and other model making companies, so why not support someone like you as well ? 
Another thing you could consider is drones as I know most operators will allow you fly around their ships if you ask them nicely.
A drone with both a high def camera and a lidar sensor can be used to create quite detailed files.
This is especially helpful for areas of high details.
The generate point clouds and resulting 3D models won’t be of any use for printing.
But together with the images they allow for quite accurate measurements.
A range finder can also help to solve some puzzles if a ship is close by so you can check it out.
Most allow you to not just measure distance but also angle and height.
Measure a good, fixed distance, e.g. 300m.
Use a camera that allows you save images in RAW format.
Like that you correct any lens distortions in Photoshop and based on the RAW data and fixed distance get surprisingly accurate measurements in return.
If you can do this for the port- and starboard side of the ship you have a really good base to add more close ups and drone images to create a 3D model and very high resolution 2D side images.
Plus: You can use this to create textures for a 3D model, which in return makes is easy to get things like paint jobs match original on curved or other complex surfaces.
I would still try to ask for their support though as with that you might not need to go through any of this
@user_3026326371 Thanks for the suggestions, I have had/attempted a bit of contact with cruise companies - mainly on the legal/IP front to get permission to publish etc.
You are correct about drone shots being useful. There are really useful shots published on youtube for certain parts the ships - particularly flyovers over the top that I have used to help fill in some of the details.
The biggest area where I will probably seek further info are the parts of the ship that it is not easy to see in person on from photos/drone shots - such as the underwater profiles. I did try contacting one of the ship building yards - but they declined to help - so if I do any more undersides will probably try contacting the cruise companies next.
Have just done a very inspiring visits to a couple of really good model museums in Hamburg - which has given me lots of ideas on how to improve the models.
Will probably try contacting the International Maritime one - to see if they have any interest in seeing what can be done with multi colour 3d printers, and using 3d printers to help with the modelling process - I didn’t see any 3d printers in evidence in any of their work areas - and I think having a few printers running could be quite interesting for visitors.
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