I hope the Beta V01.01.02.00 resolves the adhesion issues. Just an FYI on what can happen.
Had an issue with Bambu Silk PLA warping on the Bambu smooth PEI plate. The print nozzle hit the print damaging the flow blocker and knocking the socks off the hot-end. It ripped the rubber sock off the flow blocker. The bed had Bambu glue on it, that is why it looks streaky. ( trying to keep PLA from warping )
Thanks for the heads up. I have the smooth plate as well. I haven’t recieved my printer yet (it will be here Monday) but I appreciate you sharing. On a side note, that print looks really cool. Don’t mine me being curious, but what is that? Hope that they get it sorted quickly.
It looks pretty stuck down in the cam shot; when you looked had it warped and pulled of the plate?
Sorry just can’t tell where it happened.
On another note - all of the silk PLA is my least favorite filament across p series, x series, and I am assuming h.
Just a beast.
That’s pretty cool! This is my first 3d printer, so I’m really excited to get started.
Yes it was well stuck down in general, unfortunately the center popped out and the nozzle impacted it somehow…as i have has other PLA ( not just silk ) curl on the plate, my assumption is the center curled ( having less surface area ). The timelapse did not catch enough to say with 100% certainty.
Here is another print that you can see the curling with Bambu Matte PLA. The same print came out with no issued on the Textured plate.
This isn’t about a problem with the H2D, but rather with PLA Silk/PLA Silk+.
It’s actually one of only two filaments from Bambu Lab that I’ve never managed to get consistently good results with. I tried almost every setting and adjustment I could think of, but eventually gave up and ended up throwing away about 10 kg of filament. 
I could get it to stick to the bed and the prints always looked great, but the models were extremely fragile and would break almost if you just looked at them.
So it’s interesting to hear that these issues still seem to persist with this (for me, rather useless) filament—even on the H2D.
I’m also impressed you managed to get any PLA to warp! What temperatures did you use?
I have decided to just stick to the textured plate until either (1) there is better support for the smooth plate profile / bed temp or (2) the BIQU Frostbite plate comes out.
I had some inconsistent extrusion results on the smooth plate that lead me to this.
Again - no complaints - just waiting for software updates to catch up.
While i agree Silk can be a PitA to work with, same filament has no issues with the smooth PEI plate in the X1C.
As for temps, i used all of the Bambu stock defaults, no modifications ( as i have with the filament on the X1C ) Its Bambu Filament, on a Bambu Plate, using Bambu Slicer.
If you read the thread in the Beta firmware, you will see they list inconsistent bed temperature and first layer issues as items they address.
So i agree to disagree with you on this as i suspect they did not do enough testing with the profiles, smooth pei plate, and the firmware / profiles need to catch up.
While i could burn a lot of time and filament truing to tune each variable myself, that is not why i bought my second Bambu printer. I want to create, not tinker.
I’ve been following that thread, and I always heat soak my build plates, regardless of the filament I’m using.
With a bit of luck, I should receive my H2D Combo Full Laser 40" within the next two weeks and will be able to join you in testing and troubleshooting.
The main reason I heat soak from the start is not only to address uneven or inconsistent bed temperatures, but also to allow the metal to reach a stable state where it will no longer expand at the current temperature. I plan to set up my future H2D the same way: after the bed and/or chamber is heated, there will be a 10-minute delay before the print starts.
This may not resolve your specific issue, but it’s something worth considering, especially when working with engineering filaments that require relatively high bed temperatures.
Just out of curiosity, you mentioned having successful prints with your X1 Carbon (I personally never managed to produce anything that was solid enough for practical use). How did you achieve this—did you use only the stock settings? When I use the stock settings, I find that any model printed with Silk filament is very easy to break, and I have tried almost every possible adjustment. It seems that layer adhesion is my main issue, and I haven’t been able to solve it, so I’ve decided not to use Silk filament again.
For Silk PLA, Wood PLA, PETG, and TPU, i always dry them before use. Silk PLA for example, i dry at 50c for 12 hours. Then when cool i store in a dry box. I do not dry basic or matte PLA unless its brittle.
For functional prints i tend to use PLA or PETG depending on how strong i need it to be…for toy’s like a fidget for my son or to show off at work i might use a silk pla ( like in this case ) for the looks.
I have had many bad experiences with Silk PLA, in particular Inland purchased at microcenter. Bambu Silk PLA has been mostly reliable.
Here are some pictures if things my son and i have printed with the X1C and the H2D successfully with the same spool of filament. I even flexed one of them to see if the layer adhesion was as weak as i have seen in the past ( Silk splitting on the layer lines )
Forgot to mention, yes all defaults ( i don’t change them unless i have to or i am using a 3rd party filament ). Also the failure was about 2 hours in, so i do not think bed expansion plays a part. But heat soaking the bed makes sense for that standpoint. I did force a full bed level ( flipped from auto to on ) so the bed should have has at least that time to soak.
I dried my Silk+ for seven days in the second batch just to be sure, but the results were the same—models so brittle they broke just by looking at them. I primarily print with ASA, PAHT-CF, PPA-CF, TPU 95A HF, and use PLA for quick, inexpensive prototyping.
There was definitely no drying issue with my Silk+, but I might give it another try once my H2D arrives.
Here’s my process:
So, my problem is either a case of just getting some bad Silk+ from Bambu Lab, or there’s a setting in Bambu Lab Studio that simply doesn’t play well with Silk+—or perhaps any Silk variant, for that matter.
If you want to add a pause before printing starts, adjust your printer’s G-code as follows:
M141 S[overall_chamber_temperature] ; Let Chamber begin to heat
{endif}
;===== set chamber temperature ==========
; Customized
G4 P600000 ; pause for 600,000 milliseconds (10 minutes)
Insert the customized section at this point in your start G-code. This ensures the printer will heat the bed and, if needed, the chamber—then wait 10 minutes before continuing with the print. I had to do something similar on my X1 Carbon since I use a third-party carbon fiber build plate.