Different print quality between P1S and X1C

Hi everyone, today I would like to share with you a problem that afflicts me by a couple weeks, basically my P1S does’t print as well as my X1C. In general you can look in the picture that the overhangs are worse, same for the tollerance of the print. I have the X1C since the last year and I bought the P1S 2 months ago, the first prints were fine but then the problem begins, the models in the picture are printed with the same material and same settings on bambustudio, I just switched the printer without modify any printer settings in both of them, what should I do? Btw I have already checked all the fans and they work fine. I also have changed both extruder and nozzle to a brand new one that I already had, but it didn’t help at all.

Thanks for reading and for any kind of hint.

First, thanks for printing clear photos.

Second, may we assume that you are using PLA? If PETG, then have you dried it?

Third, may we assume that the extruder and hotend are the same and that the P1 extruder was upgraded?

I’m assuming that you are dissatisfied with this section of the left hand print circled in red where there appear to be voids. I also see some stair-stepping, circled in blue. Is that what you mean by overhang? I ask because I’m not seeing any overhangs so if it is possible to draw an arrow to what you don’t like, it will easier to answer the question. Perhaps if you could do a closeup pic or a macro pic, that too will help.

In any event, if I were to take a first stab at it, it looks to me that these were printed at two different filament heights.

If you haven’t already done so, one way to rule out different settings(such as layer height) as an issue, is to save the .3MF file directly to the SD card and print it from the menu. Alternatively, you could FTP it directly. Now I realize that if you take a .3MF that was meant for a P1, you might find the P1 definitions stuck when you send it to the X1 but humor me and try it anyway and slice it even if the settings complain about incompatibilities. I’d recommend using P1 settings in the X1 since the P1 features are a subset of the X1. That said, I’ve not tried so perhaps another member with two printers can speak better of this. If you are able to reproduce the same differences seen in your photos but have then ruled out settings, then I would chase a hardware problem like perhaps your extruder needs to be upgraded on the P1.

The other question is; have you calibrated the filament on both machines and saved them to different filament profiles? One could be suffixed with -X1 and the other -P1.

One of my favorite troubleshooting techniques, which, while doubling print time, is to use the quiet mode at 50% speed. If there are filament calibration issues or stiction issues with the filament feed, 50% speed will ameliorate a lot of sins in the filament calibration or extruder issues that might be at the hairy edge of tolerance. Either way, it is the easiest one-click experiment one can use to troubleshoot a pesky issue.

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Okay, first of all thanks for answering, in picture was used polimaker polyterra pla, but I have also tried with petg with the same issues, I am having this problem with both the original P1S extruder and the hardened steel new one that I have installed few days ago.
Of course the “bad” print is the one on the left that was printed with the P1S, the one on the right is printed with the X1C, basically there are defect everywhere on the prints, mostly on the outersurface, with “overhang” I meant the stair-stepping that you mentioned before. the layer height is the same. I haven’t calibrate the filament on the machines I am just using the filament profile saved in my project but I noticed that is suffied with “@BBLX1C”, maybe this could be the issue. I am gonna try to print again the same file with the P1S profile filament, honestly I did’t think that filament profiles would be different between X1C and P1S since the have the same hardware.

I will let you know if the problem is solved as soon as possible. Thanks again for the patience.

I just checked in Bambustudio and I can’t choose the P1S’s profile for the filament.

This would be a great place to start your investigation. Try calibrating the filament as opposed to using the pre-sets. I’ve grown to really distrust the pre-sets as was evidence this past week when I acquired a spool of Overture PLA precisely for the reason that I wanted to test it out using the presets and compare their $18/spool filament against the spate of $14/spool filaments that I’ve been having good luck with.

I can tell you hands-down, the factory preset for Overture PLA was garbage. When I manually tweaked the filament profile, I was able to achieve vastly superior outputs. Now the sad part, at $18, it faired no better than my $14, spools.

That’s why I suggested to place the .3MF file directly onto the SD card and bypass Bambu Studio. Then print it from the front panel, not the PC.

My concern is why for the X1C the presets works fine but for the P1S they don’t, that’s why I don’t think is a preset filament profile problem, and honestly I want to be able to use bambu studio and not just put the 3mf in the machine, beacause I need a certain level of reliabilty with the printer. I have done a temp tower and the print looks bad at every level.

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I don’t know what the problem is with the prints, but I think there is some confusion about terms in this discussion.

I only find “@BBLX1C” in the names for Process Presets. My understanding is that the P1S uses the X1C processes and there are no default processes just for the PIS.

Custom Filament Presets use suffixes with Bambu Lab spelled out: “@Bambu Lab P1S 0.4 nozzle” or “@Bambu Lab X1 Carbon 0.4 nozzle”.

I think you may not have separate “Custom” profiles for each filament and printer, so you might need to set that up before they become available in the filament drop-down list. The only Custom filament presets you will see in the drop-down are the ones that match the Printer selected at the top.

Use the gear icon:

Click the edit icon:

Use “Add Preset” and select your P1S, or A1, or…

I don’t know of an easy way to compare Custom filament presets, but I assume the X1C and P1S versions are the same until you modify one.

I don’t actually have a second printer, or AMS, so I have not yet found a use for Custom profiles. Simple User Presets have been all I need.

Thanks for the answer, my probelm is with print quality on the P1S, I don’t really want to customize the settings profile for the filament because the X1C prints already great with them, so since I was using the same profiles for the P1S but the quality was way worse, I was wondering if there was any difference in these profiles that I should consider, but from what I am reading from you and other pages on internet the profiles for the X1C and the P1S are the same, so the problem must be somewhere else.

Any luck using overture pla? Basically all i use and everything i print with it looks like garbage. Used Generic, preset and made my own profile and all 3 are bad.

I have used overture pla pretty often with the stock profiles and never had any issue with my X1C.

I’ve owned an X1 Carbon March of 2023 and purchased a p1s Black Friday of same year. Honestly I’ve not run into any issue we finished discrepancies between either printer. Printing a Prusacaster guitar and intentionally used an atomic ruby red p e t g on the body parts on both machine with the same settings and you can’t tell them apart. I did have a problem with the free CAD file that I created it didn’t want to print properly on either machine and my Anycubic Kobra Max so I redrew the simple vase that is large for a garden project and the problems I had disappeared. Maybe there’s a glitch in the 3mf file being used. I don’t know I’m not that well versed and as knowledgeable as many people who respond (thanks to you all) but just wanted to give my feedback on the two machines by Bambu and my experience with them.

Andrea have you found a solution to this?
I just got a p1S and printed 45° chamfered edges of a lid.
There a huge difference between the x1c and p1s.
Just like you, i would not think it has to do with the filament presets as both machines have the same hardware and all, still the results are way different. I am printing the same file with the same filament (light brown matte from overture with which i always had good prints) on the X1C. I’ll be able to tell if it was the file or the printer in a bit :wink:

Almost forgetting, I noticed differences in the tolerances too. Just like you said.

Yes, in my case I accidentally set the k factor to 0 instead of 0,02, so it was an extrusion problem mostly visible in the corners, you should calibrate the k factor, (the pressure advance calibration). You can star from 0,02, with this value you should not have any problem.

Ok, I am running the manual calibration for a couple of filaments (wood overture and high-speed pla grey sunlu). I found that they are best at “5” of the first calibration test, and the overture was best at 0.015, while the sunlu was best at 0.2
We’ll see if it gets better. Did this fix the tolerance issue too?

Yes, everything was fine after I changed the k factor to 0,02

Hi there, I was away from 3D printing for 4 years, my last printer was a Flasforge Creator Pro, so now I decided to make a glorious comeback with a X1C, but everything goes bad.
I was reading another post with the opposite issue, The P1S has better results than X1C. t/better-print-quality-on-p1s-side-by-side-examples/31464)
But now i have some issues with my X1C, i just bought it one week ago, it is totally new!!, maybe this is not the correct thread forum but i feel sad, because i wanted a totally reliable printer, today i send my X1C to technical service, i have to wait 10 days (south america resellers)
Anyone could share your normal (standard settings) detailed photos of your prints? Here can you see some photos of my prints and they are horrible!!!
(where can i upload my photos)?
There was the las prints, the green one are the first ones with the green filament included in the package box.

My actions:

  1. Recalibrating 3 times
  2. Hard reset (fabric settings reset)
  3. Each print has Flow dynamics and bed levelling calibrations.
  4. I didnt touch the belt tensioner, it only has 1 week of use!!
  5. Strange sound in X axis after hard reset it dissapear.

Thanks in advance.