Beginner question
Poor Hercules! He has an octopus stuck to his face. Were tree supports the wrong decision for this model? Or do I just need to post-process it more? Also, is the banding on the model’s leg caused by a lack of necessary support?
Beginner question
Poor Hercules! He has an octopus stuck to his face. Were tree supports the wrong decision for this model? Or do I just need to post-process it more? Also, is the banding on the model’s leg caused by a lack of necessary support?
He has a facehugger . The problem would be PETG, it sticks too well to itself.
Great challenge. I believe it can be done though without sending you to the loony bin.
Try printing one of these.
I promise you, it can be done but it took me 4 months and 3 spools of PLA to get the magic mix of supports.
So the key is this. You have to master manual painting of supports and get very crafty with positioning your model so that gravity is tugging at the least possible points where your model will sag. This is by no means easy, trust me but when you nail it, it’s like the smell of Napalm in the morning.…
There is one trick I picked up that had an amazing affect. If you haven’t done so, try orienting the part at some weird angle up in the air. If you tried it, you know the slicer won’t obey. So here’s a trick.
Create a disk that basically zero thickness using the cylinder primitive or the new disk primitive. We will use this as the anchor point.
Then move that disk under the model. And right click and assemble them into one assembly. If you tried to raise your model above the plate, the slicer simply drops it down. It will not allow one to suspend something in mid air.
However, once assembled with our useless disc, The slicer doesn’t know that this is two models. And I can independently rotate the model into any position I want. That’s because it treats the disc like the bottom of the assembly and uses that as the floor of the model.
Now comes the painting part. Left click for green(place my support here), right-click for red(Do not allow supports here)
Then you simply slice your model and it will do exactly what you asked. Note in this example it’s bizarre to illustrate a point, this wouldn’t stand for very long before the weight of the model broke the support but it can be done and it show that one can bypass the slicer’s safeties.
Now in my example I use very silly and exaggerated supports with trees. But the same principle works for normal. You just have to remember to use (Manual) supports before it will use the painted supports you just drew.
So in your example. I would do the following:
With tree supports do it here:
What a fantastic response! Thank you. The skull you printed looks like a real challenge. Does this summary look right?
I’m using the Linux version of Bambu Studio (v1.8.2.56). I’m not sure that it offers identical support options.
Olias is using ocra slicer it has way more settings you should check it out.
Confession. When I bought the P1S I assumed I would be able to wireless send gcode to the printer. It looks like that is not possible, and I’m presently too lazy to do the whole SD card thing.
Sending G-code to the PS1 is supported under firmware 1.05 and Bambu Studio 1.8. Fair warning, I tested 1.05 over the past couple of days and rolled back to 1.04 because 1.05 is too unstable for LAN-only mode. However, it works fine over the cloud.
I’ve been using 3 support top interface layers (tree, organic) and I find they remove much easier than just 2.
If you haven’t already done so, make sure that you have advanced turned on. More options will show up.
You can send gcode that was not created by Bambu Studio to the printer over a network? I did not know that. Can you link to some more information about how that is done? I think that is something I would like to try.