After about a month owning my first bambu… and following the recommended procedures and cleaning, maint, etc… nothing sticks anymore. Same prints as before. just wont stick first layer. Ive been printing for years now, prusas, enders, anycubic, forge, , , , was told bambu was the way ? to escape glue. Seeing numerous posts about people using it on their A1 ams ? eeeek. So many people told me before I bought this thing, oh I dont need glue, ever.
Ive tried all the tricks. even ordered new build plates. this thing has less than 30 prints on it. and after each, ive cleaned…and prepped… The last several… no matter what… no go. Brand new build plates, oem, nope. somewhere within first layer, random spots, drags. lifts.
- what’s the material (filament) you’re printing with?
- what’s the build plate type?
- you need to use really REALLY cheapo dish soap with absolutely nothing that claims to moisturise.
- i’m extremely dubious of your claims that you’re following procedure (i don’t mean that in an impolite way) because ive been using the same textured pei sheet for close to 9 months now and it has not had a single issue with adhesion.
- i’m even more dubious of your claims to have been “printing for years” since this is an extremely elementary issue. this is an issue someone would be having if it was their first week with a printer; not “years” like you claim.
that all said and done there are use cases for glue; specifically when printing material that is prone to warping.
if you say you’ve been using isopropanol or any solvent at all you shall be banished to the corner of shame.
additionally: ensure your hotend is latched on correctly. it being incorrectly latched can cause it to scrape the bed/print and/or knock prints off the plate
well, my first printer was in 2009, if that tells you anything. I remember when Thingiverse launched… I had a Makerbot Cupcake, but you probably wouldnt know anything about that. Glue was heavily used since day 1. Been trying to get away from it since then. But hey , thanks for your FRIENDLY ‘help’ … and ‘banished’ ? lol. whee… fun fun.
I was just asking a question. Since asking, Ive seen dozens of folks who are claiming to use glue. yes. surprise to you, im sure. Hasta!
If you were just asking a question you wouldn’t have been so overwhelmingly negative while dropping every brand you claim to have experience with
considering you have refused to answer the material/plate questions im going to operate under the assumption now that you’re a liar
If you wanted me to be polite then you shouldn’t have been rude from the get-go.
I’m sorry but at this point? Suffer.
I have had my Bambu Lab printers for a year now and would recommend them to anybody looking to get into 3d printing, but I did start out printing in my basement, which has an air exchange system keeping the humidity under control very well. There, I didn’t have any issue with bed adhesion. But I have moved them to a room in my shop with no air control of any kind, and I have found that since the weather has gotten cooler, the humidity has gone up in my print room. Now I am having issues with bed adhesion on my 2 A1 minis and my A1. But the X1C has no such issues; it prints flawlessly, which only makes sense since it is a controlled chamber. My suggestion is to put your filament into a dryer and try printing it straight out of the dryer.
Strange - never needed glue on my P1S
This is a near-religious subject lol
I use AQUA NET UNSCENTED as the first ratchet for helping adhesion. Because I am lazy, and really, this actually works ok. There’s probably some bespoke ingredient in here doing some real work.
The next ratchet is a thorough hot water + soap + dry, no hairspray.
Then I move to MAGIGOO liquid glue.
If at this point it still isn’t holding, I do more analysis on the model’s taco-ification geometry.
Sidenote: I use a slathering of glue for TPU on textured PEI. Otherwise, it sticks WAY too well. I use a light amount of glue on smooth plates TPU for the same reason, but you really have to go ham on it for the textured.
my subject WAS the inquiry. the body of my post, the complaint/gripe. but hey, you do you! Hasta!
If you are “cleaning” your build plate with ISO alcohol, you are not cleaning your plate properly. Use hot water and Dawn dish soap(or equivalent) and dry. Thats it you are done. Dawn is designed to remove oil and grease(this is why they use it for animals involved in oil spills). No need to wipe with alcohol(which is known to smear the grease and oils around the plate) so many overthink the process and think they need a clean room with hazmat suits.
Alcohol is ok for small spot cleaning(if hand accidentally rubs or touches build plate) between proper cleanings, but not as effective as Dawn at removing grease. Practice holding plates by very edges away from build area.
Dont use a scrub brush or sponge that you also use for dishes or cleaning as it will contaminate the plate.
Glue and hairspray are used for release agents for stuff like petg, ABS etc so it doenst bond to the plate, it is not intended to adhere stuff to your plate. This has been the case for years even when I had my 500mmx500mm Creality CS10 S5 glass bed.
A properly cleaned bed needs no glue unless you are using engineering filaments which as stated above for releasing parts from the plate.
Another thing to look at on the A1 series is the 7 tool head screws that are known to come loose on the A series this usually is shown by poor 1st layers or uneven shredded looking layers. There are 3 behind the hotend then 4 more on the back side of that piece when you carefully lower it and look on the back
your CS10 was high tech compared to what I started with. Glue was used to make the objects stick. I realize they have ‘release’ agents now, but they also have WAY better textured plates then my original STEEL plate with a 1990s tech coating that lasted MAYBE 100 prints. Ive used glue on printers at least 2000 times… maybe more… for stick. We all did. My post is related to those who suggested I get the Bambu BECAUSE they boasted , oh we never use glue, then I count dozens of posts here about it afterwards… I know, my fault. I clean my plate after each print, MOST of the time with soapy water, sometimes with ISO if i want it deep cleaned for the textured plate. What Im noticing is that either way, I have objects sliding about, ie fails. and these are practically NEW plates.
Are you able to observe the Z-offset or feel it with paper?
If the nozzle is a little high, this can happen. I presume you have a bambu nozzle in there, and it’s locked in place?
No idea how to fix the z offset on a P1S, I would factory reset it but ask someone else before me, I no longer have a P1S and I never had to do anything to it.
i bet your dish soap has moisturizers (leaves residue)
some recommendations copied over from another post:
" textured pei sheets are temperamental, and the guidelines about cleaning miss a few important bits of information:
- some dish liquids contain hand moisturizers (i.e. oils - for your skin) that immediately destroy any adhesion on any pei sheet
- IPA just spreads oils around, it doesnt remove anything (though i am wondering if there are IPAs out there that also contain oily residues/impurities) The IPA i have only gets used for the releasing of TPU prints, NOT for cleaning (because it makes bed adhesion worse)
- some glue sticks actually make adhesion worse. I suspect that they have additives that also have a negative effect. Generally I like to avoid glues
- acetone is your friend. That stuff actually removes oils. Been using the stuff on pei sheets from when they started to become a thing, years ago. never ruined one with it, and if i ever did… there are better build plates out there nowadays, for cheap, its a consumable after all … make sure the sheet is cold (otherwise the acetone evaporates too quickly) and only wipe the sheet with a towel with some on it. dont soak it.
So to sum up how I get to get the textured pei to work/stick:
- wash with warm (no need to burn your hands) water and dish soap without any perfumes/additives/hand moisturizers
- use a clean and brand new scrubber/sponge, make plenty of foam, let it sit for a minute or two and then rinse it off…
- after that let the build plate dry, or wipe dry with a clean dry paper towel
- soak paper towel with acetone. give the build plate a good wipe with it. dont soak the plate
- never ever touch the plate with your bare hands after that. dont even think about touching it or your pei sheet will lose adhesion on that spot…
- print.
alternatively: get a cool plate",… which by the way I have done recently.
Some good information with some bad information mixed in.
Don’t use acetone. Acetone is a solvent that dissolves plastic and will damage the plate. Bambu Lab explicitly says “don’t use acetone”.
people have been using Acetone since when pei sheets became a thing. In a previous job we had 3d printers for r&d prototyping years ago. the only thing that would get those printers pei sheets to stick again after some time was wiping with acetone. Never destroyed a single one by doing that.
stop just blindly repeating information that you do not have any practical experience with. wiping Pei with acetone is fine, especially in a case where the sheet is not working anymore anyways.
“No practical experience with” !
Ok ace, you do you.
I tend to listen to the people who actually build this stuff and not assume that I know better. That’s me being me.
Maybe also listen to the people that actually use the equipment. Or even better, gain some experience yourself. You might actually learn something.
Also: op’s plate is already no longer working? mostly because he followed those “manufacturers guidelines” that are missing vital information. What is there to lose?
I have damaged the coating on a gold bambu PEI plate with acetone.
Bambu says don’t do it on their plates.
edit Specifically the damaged plate was the plate that was ordered with the P1S way back when then P1S was a new design.
i call ■■■■■■■■ on that
252525
Perhaps your PEI plates that survive acetone are a different brand?
Prusa, Creality, and Bambu say do NOT use acetone on their PEI.