Have many people used ludicrous mode… I just have my printer on standard mode, and if you do, what will you use it for?
Only just got into 3D printer P1S in November 2024…
I don’t use it, but I have seen reports here that it has been used, but there is a drop in print quality.
Of course this may not be the case with a tall model on an A series printer.
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I rarely use it. For some reason prints have a high tendency to fail in ludicrous mode even though I will print things at very high speeds sometimes and have never had a failure even with 450 infill speed and 300 outer wall speed.
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I’m seldom in that big of a hurry. I’ve verified that I can get decent results using it, just as I’ve verified top speeds in my cars and motorcycles, but rapid accelerations are hard on any machinery, so I stick with standard speeds unless there is a special need.
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I’ve used it extensively and found that it fails more frequently than it’s worth.
First, Bambu has failed to tune this mode correctly. Why can I say that? Try this experiment. Take cube primitive and scale it to 100x100x5mm and print it two different ways. The first use the standard settings. What you will find is that the head moves so rapidly and it scrapes along the grid infill violently. If it doesn’t yank smaller models off the build plate, that only because you got lucky. Now repeat the experiment using something else for infill like gyroid and you might find it less violent but not by much.
In the end, the mode is pointless because even with Bambu’s own filament, the head movements are too fast for the filament to shrink quickly enough before the head passes over a second time.
I have experimented with Z-hop setting but haven’t found the magic number although it did make the head travel less violent across the grid infill but not by much. Maybe someone else here has had more luck.
Personally, I consider this a half-baked feature that Bambu never finished. For now, it’s just a gimmick or a placebo effect, making you think that your “amp can go to 11.” Bambu is counting on nobody calling them out because, after all, who’s going to criticize their own decision to purchase an expensive item with a six-speed transmission when the crankcase only goes to three? To draw a comparison.
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Because I am new to 3D, I just leave settings on the bambu setting, or when I got Elegoo PetG Rapid, I just did the bambu setting and have done other settings when other people uploaded them, which work the same as the bambu setting…
Thanks for the info…
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Just an FYI. I did a bakeoff between Elegoo Rapid PETG and Bambu PETG HF and both performed very fast. The Bambu was noticeably smoother but I question whether it is really PETG. I say that because it did not exhibit the properties of normal PETG, it was soft, pliable and not nearly as strong as regular PETG. Elegoo bat them on that as well as Elegoo was 30% less cost. Once again, I felt Bambu filaments were more hype than value.
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I did not have to much trouble with Elegoo PetG Rapid…
The only thing I could say was that every 4 days or so I had to put it back in the dryer (Sunlu S4). I did have Ikea 45-litre boxes with the moister clock saying 10 in one and 15 in the other box…
But the 15 did not have full rolls of filament in it…
Just ordered 24 rolls of Sunlu Pla Plus 2… I did look; it had some good reviews… So for the price, I think I would go for it…
I did get them from Amazon UK, so if have problems, send them back or most of them…
I personally just use Ludicrus mode for fast prototyping.
Say you made some threading / fitting, for use with seperate components or third party hardware.
Ill cut that section out and print it on Ludicrus speed, to just get some results quickly and adjust in case there is a mistake.
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Was it a detailed print or straight forward print, mate?
How much quicker is it to say a 4-hour print? How much will knock the 4 hour…
It was a pretty straight forward print, but since I was testing fittings in this example it was still important to be accurate.
And it had no problem with ludicrous mode for these test parts.
But as I said, these were small cut out parts of the model, not the full thing since that would be a massive waste of material.
But be aware that overhands suffer in quality, even if supports are used, maybe its because its underextruding but the lines become very visible.
(This is the underside of the back bracket, and it only used sport mode)
*I filed off suports that left behind some material in this picture ^
So as for print time, instead of 15min it was around 9min. You can extrapolate that to your print times as you will.
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Thanks for the info in some detail…
So if straightforward design, it would be okay…
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i ask my self this question often…
on my p1s i used it often for “simple” stuff…
but it 90% failed with complex models…
also if ludicrous mode is used quality went down minimal…
on my h2d its been the same… but i noticed on complex models it doesnt fail as easy as the p1s…also the quality is almost the same on simple stuff…
for example im printing a 28x28 drawer wich takes 4 hours on normal…
on ludicrous mode its only takes about 2,5 hours… if u really look close u can tell a difference in the shine of the printed material, but thats it…