I am getting very inconsistent colours with this, this is because of speed vs temperature, and speed changes based on geometry. It seems to be worst with their pink colour. However, I can’t believe the stuff is this bad. Their PETG (regular) and PLA all work very well and consistently. So I’m assuming I have it setup wrong.
Am not going to put my current settings in here, in case it biases the responses, but I will add them later as replies come in.
Thanks!
edit; The filament is also known as just “high speed petg”, I think SUNLU haven’t decided what to call it yet.
Can’t speak for Sunlu here but for the problem in general.
Matte filaments, be it PETG or PLA can be tricky on several levels, similar to silk filaments.
A slight variation here or there results in inconsistent prints.
For PETG the surface quality is a factor of speed, temp and layer height.
Consistency only really happens if the flow rate does not change too much.
Sadly most models won’t allow for a consistent flow rate and things get out of whack.
I found it best to determine at which speed and at which temperature matte or silk filament changes surface appearance.
This give a window of speed and temperature in which a print has to reside to get the best results.
Key is to ensure that throughout the print neither the speed not he layer go out of bounds.
The temp we can really control on the fly, the rest we can mitigate if all else fails by reducing the overall print speeds…
Without a proper calibration though even what worked for another users might not give you the results you are after.
So why not not determine the window manually rather than trying settings from other users?
Just saying…
Eponymous is talking about high speed filament. That is especially optimized for consistent strength and surface across a wide speed and temperature range. So I would expect that exactly those changes in appearance typically known from regular PETG don’t happen with the high speed PETG.
I haven’t tried the Sunlu highspeed filaments yet. I did try Elegoo and IEMAI. Both worked fine with regular PETG settings and appearance was much more consistent than regular Sunlu PETG. But interestingly, layer adhesion was lower even at small speeds. So I have the feeling that highspeed filament is really about optics but not about mechanical properties.
I tried those settings and for the PETG-HS it did not work well on a P1S. lots of stringing and the color became very washed out. Lowered temps and much better.
It definitely is an art. Once you get it fine tuned save it for next round of prints. Patience is perfect. Plus the settings that I provided based their posting was using PETG-CF. Make sense to reduce the temps. For Matte PETG-HS. Have an awesome prints.
Most often stringing = wet filament. Don’t be surprised if you need to dry filament straight out of the packaging and I have had times where filaments needed to dry for over 48 hours before all stringing/surface defects were eliminated (ABS, PETG, PPA, etc). If it’s not wet filament (which it almost always is) then I would look at tuning your retracting distance and speed.
A telltale sign that the filament is wet is when vertical surfaces of the model are not completely smooth and have tiny bumps or imperfections which is caused by steam in the nozzle which disrupts and changes the flow that the printer cannot predict, causing defects.
Holy moly 48 hours! I am new to PETG with an also nearly new X1C, and here for these comments. I have tried a new roll of Sunlu HS Matte PETG, ran CRAPPY (generic PETG params)! Dried on the bed at 80C for about 10 hours - still CRAPPY (Bambu PETG HF params)! Wadding up and stringing all over…Trying again on the bed, with that vented box trick, maybe just let it go all night before trying again.
My neighbor has a meter to test hay for moisture content. Wonder if there is anything that would quantify moisture in filament…
For PETG, filament dryer is kind of essential and quite cheap (like comparable to the cost of a spool from certain vendors). Yes, you can use the heated bed, but it takes ages.
