What calibration tests are you talking about?
I have not done a flow dynamics calibration for a while. I can give that a try.
I have the same issue on my P1S, and on my A1.
Ok so:
In Bambu Studio you have Home, Prepare, Device, and Calibration
Flow Dynamics and Flow Rate.
Then follow the instructions. I do this with all of my filaments, even Bambu
Click Calibration and you should see options to calibrate. I can attach a screen shot later
I primarily use them on my H2S, i have yet to try these on my X1C. I will experiment asap!
Thanks for the nudge!
Hey, thanks! I had never done the auto calibration before. So, I just tried it, and it came out with .041 K factor. Now I am trying the manual calibration to see how they compare. But it doesn’t look like the P1S’s have the auto calibrate functionality.
H2…As I’ve thought…look forward to see the results of your testing for X1… as that’s what I’m using as well.
What printer and slicer are you using these for?
1 Like
Use the settings in this profile on maker world. (Just add the part below to maker worlds web page)
/en/models/1858387-optimized-profile-for-sunlu-rapid-petg#profileId-1987314
Its been giving me absolutely perfect prints. Just make sure its super dry as the HS part of it makes the already hydroscopic filament even more so.
1 Like
or, in other words, that:
2 Likes
H2S and Bambu Studio. I have been able to bump the temp to 240 and vol. speed to 10
volumetric flow 10 mm³/s seems very low. That should be easily handled by regular (non-HF) filament which achieves almost twice the layer adhesions. The whole point of HF filament would be flow rates at or above 20 mm³/s while still looking good.
Just as a side note: In my measurements, regular Sunlu PETG beats both, Sunlu and Bambu HF PETG even at 30mm³/s by 30-50% with an E3D Obxidian 0,4mm nozzle. So if endurance is your main goal, I suggest regular PETG over HF, even though the surface looks inconsistent depending on the speed. HF PETG seems to be all about surface looks sacrificing mechanical strength.
2 Likes
Wow! I never even thought of that lol. I’ll give 20mm³/s a whirl (Stewy Griffin wh- lol) and see if I have been sandbagging myself 
20 mm³/s was my default for all filaments with the stock nozzle on my X1C. Since I have a HF nozzle, I have increased default max flow for all filaments to 35mm³/s. If I remember right, Bambu PETG HF easily handled 45 mm³/s and probably would even print well at 50mm³/s. It’s just nothing I have much use for. Most of my parts are comparatively small, or I want really good finish. It’s surprisingly difficult to get even 35 mm³/s to use. For big parts I typically increase both line width and print speed of inner walls, solid infill and sparse infill.
I think the default 0,2mm process profile by BambuLab reaches around 20mm³/s. So max flow of 10 mm³/s is already quite reducing the default profile.
I think for the generic profiles they have reduced the max flow radically to make sure it prints without errors with even the strangest brand. But actually most third party filaments I have tried so far can be printed just as fast as the BambuLabs filaments. Their PETG HF is actually a remarkable exception. I have tried a few other PETG HF filaments but all had some problems at higher speeds that it didn’t. Sunlu was the second best. But it seems like I didn’t experiment sufficiently yet with the parameters. I’m very curious to test the Sunlu HF again, as I never would have tried really high fan speeds like in the profile suggested above by @Mooky472 .
1 Like
In my measurements, regular Sunlu PETG beats both, Sunlu and Bambu HF PETG even at 30mm³/s by 30-50% with an E3D Obxidian 0,4mm nozzl
I have noticed SUNLU (and Jayo which is the same brand) does indeed print very fast.
At “HF speeds”, however, it seems physically weaker than Bambu HF PETG, specifically for impact resistance. (EDIT I want to clarify my confusing language, the SUNLU is stronger if you print slowly, but with high speed printing, to speeds SUNLU claim to not support with their regular PETG but that the material still works at, I find the SUNLU becomes brittle)
If you’re printing slowly, it’s true that Bambu HF gives up strength to get a matte look and faster speed.
Long polymers = more tangling with each other = stronger. High flow uses shorter polymer chains to flow faster, and this means lower strength,
1 Like
Interesting! I measured layer adhesion for both regular Sunlu and PETG HF with the Obxidian at 300 mm/s or ~20mm³/s and at that flow, regular Sunlu PETG still was considerably stronger than BBL PETG HF. But the HF nozzle could be the deciding factor that allows Sunlu regular PETG to still keep its strength.
Sorry for confusion. I edited by post to clarify what I meant.
Hello, what are your settings on your H2s?
Seems SUNLU has made some changes. The new “high flow matte rapid petg” or whatever it’s call this week, for me, is printing fine with the same settings as bambu petg hf. Similarly it also needs to be dried before use. It’s physically stronger than the bambu stuff but the cosmetic finish is slightly less matte, and slightly more shiny. It’s still significantly less shiny than regular SUNLU PETG (which prints just fine as generic petg and can be tuned to go much faster)
1 Like
I just went and bought 40 rolls of this as HF was discontinued. Anyways, I’ve tried so many settings and speeds and never happy. So I did the same, used my PETG HF bambu settings and voila! Prints like a king!!!
What discount did you get for 40 spools?