The diamond tip is non-conductive so a standard nozzle offset calibration will fail and High-Precision Nozzle Offset Calibration must be used instead when printing with both extruders. So basically have to do this every time I swap out my nozzles. Not sure if I’m annoyed or not… yet…
Arrrrgggg… And you can only do precision calibration with high contrasting PLA? OK, off to the arts and crafts store to buy spools of black and white PLA 
Any idea if this would be a factor on the H2S? I’m interested in the nozzle, but not if there is significant extra hassle to it.
The Nozzle Offset Calibration is for printers with dual nozzles. H2D/C. I’m not saying you will not have to do calibrations for the H2S, just that you will not have to do this one. 
With a single extruder setup (H2S or using just one extruder on the H2D) the nozzle prints just fine. I love the Diamondbacks and own 3 for my Core One. H2D works fine with both extruders, just need to do an extra calibration every time the nozzles are swapped around.
Just got the nozzle, same error!!! Would have been nice to know this up front!!!.
Yes, I did use Black and White PLA. But, no, it did not help with my DB nozzle alignment.
I tried several times over different days and between prints, but I could never get it to work for me. I ultimately had to remove the DB nozzle.
I did just get a firmware update today, so I might try it again, but I will have to find where I stored the B&W PLA (I normally use PETG and/or TPU).
What happens exactly? Does the calibration fail? Or does it succeed and after starting a print when swapping colors or materials the alignment is off?
It runs through the calibration steps and never fails, but when it is done the lines are way off and the nozzles still print offset.
This might be something you need to contact support with. I don’t have this issue. Usually I have the diamondback in the left for the main material and a standard nozzle in the right for support material. After running calibration I make sure auto calibration is turned off before sending the sliced model to the printer.
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I will try one more time since the firmware updated, but if that doesn’t work, I will contact support.
Huh never knew that. But I agree with you (later down your thread) that the diamond back nozzles are awesome. I actually was part of the original Kickstarter and still have and use that nozzle for Carbon fiber nylon prints ! (Ironically the nylon carbon prints are extremely clean but pla isn’t lmao!) It’s currently on my works XL due to not having a capabile printer due to the thread 
technically I have two of them. A v5 (think it’s v5 could be V6) old style and the nextruder one
I have 6 DB nozzles: 0.4,0.6,0.8 for both my C1 (Nextruder) and my H2. I print a lot of CF and GF filaments and they give me better prints than the stock hardened nozzles.
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Never printer with GF is it any good ? I also really want to try the stuff that rings like metal too
I print PET-GF and CF (note: this PET and not PETG, they are different). It’s rigid and very heat resistant. The upside to GF is that it comes in a lot more colors and has a really nice matte finish.
The “rings like metal” is PPS-CF. It’s around $120-150/kg so it’s not cheap. If you need to print something that goes into a car engine or is exposed to harsh chemicals it’s the best choice. Otherwise, it’s overkill for everything else.
Well I once had to print an intake duct for a formula ford race car I know it’s not the hottest part of the engine but still. (Being a carb engine it wasn’t pressurised.)
I’m also messing with forged carbon that stuff is awesome
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