I just checked their website. It looks like they can’t keep up with demand. You got lucky or are on the bleeding edge, only time will tell.
Thanks to your intrepid early-adopter efforts, this just crawled up my list quite a number of places. However, given that hey can’t yet keep their supply chains in line, I’m going to wait till the delivery window shrinks to two weeks or less, to me that says that they got all the kinks in the supply chain worked out and if the product shows up damaged like some reports have indicated, I won’t be waiting for three months for replacement parts. Spare parts on allocation is a concern with me, that happened with my P1P and I swore I would never be first in line again for any product. Hell… I waited almost two years to get a Wii…
I did tune all the filaments for flow, pa and max flow. However, that benchy was presliced and i hadnt tuned the filament yet.
I used bambu petg-hf orange(chosen because I know some people have trouble with it). Failed around 35mm3/s. Tinmorry petg Galaxy gemstone green went to 30mm3/s but could have went further. I had knly set it to run up to 30. The pla was bambu charcoal. I didnt test it because I knew if the petg-hf hit 35 that the pla would too. All done at preset temps. Could have probably made some tweaks and taken the petg-hf to 40.
Pretty much the same flow as a panda revo high flow nozzle in my personal experience
Ill mess with orca soon. It seemed to work on the beta, but the elegoo version worked just as good. I think people are getting smarter with the forks.
Everything was printed at high speed. Flow was never the limiting factor since i had tuned max flow before hand.
Ill do that cube after tpu is done. What type of material do you prefer?
Any material that was calibrated is good. I did see what may have been ghosting on the Alpaca but again, it could be the photo angle. That calibration cube is probably the easiest and most unforgiving when it comes to text. If the PA isn’t calibrated just right it shows up pretty quickly and is also pretty easy to calibrate out.
Compare it to the one on the bottom left and you can see an example of near perfect(grey) versus hideous(black left) vs calibrated(Black right). The black PLA BTW was suffering from moisture. That pitting went away when I dried it.
These used the Orca Cube found in the Orca Models menu.
Here’s the file just in case you didn’t have it handy. Of course you’ll want to export the STL and open it clean in another slicer. OrcaCube.3mf (613.0 KB)
Edit. It was Voron Cube not a Orca cube. voron Cube.3mf (69.2 KB)
K. Ill post it in a bit. I should have also said that all the max flow rates were higher than the preset had them at. I did run the other prints at my max flow value. Not the preset values.
Pretty much. They went extremely bare bones. Only giving you what you need, but leaves out alot that you would want. Alot of the negatives will “hopefully” be fixed in firmware too. Its on rev 1.1. If it was ghe only printer you ever had, youd be amazed. See it next to something over $1,000 and you start to see what you get with that extra $700. Cadillac vs civic. The civic may even smoke the cadillac but your back will hurt when you get to the finish line.
Overall experience, not counting only speed or only creature comforts, I would put it above a p1p, a1 and mini. But below the p1s
I agree. I love orca. I currently use 6 slicers though. Over time, for my use, I’ve found it better to keep my filament tunes saved in each companies slicer. From my experience, their slicers usually work best for their printers. They usually have printer specific settings too. Super unpopular stance though. I do use orca for my Voron and I was using it for my bambus but stopped a while ago.
@Neiljt This one definitely has taken alot from bambu and a little from the k2 plus. The way it prints makes me wonder if the firmware is just a copy of bambus. As far as speed and quality. Plus exact same build area
A few of the new printers being released this year look as if they are all coming from the same (bambu) manufacturer , with the main noticable difference being where they have placed the touch screen , top right ,bottom right and definatley with a p1s vibe
lead time was end of march
@StreetSports There are printers for reviews usually pre optimised ,which i think would be a fair comment , at the same time id trust auroras reviews the same as i trusted her/their bambu reviews
From what I’m seeing in the Facebook groups, the reliability of set and forget isn’t up to the level of Bambu. I’d also suspect spaghetti detection is on par with anycubic, meaning it’s best left turned off.
Haven’t heard yet of a firmware update. I’m hoping by my junish delivery date, they have the firmware good to go, if it is in fact the cause of some issues being reported.
PA was turned off for the pla. Thanks for making me look closer. Good eye. Just woke up but ill do the cube today and finish tpu.
I updated my original post with the new pics. Its now at the same quality as the petg and petg-hf
Finished in 3hours and 55 minutes. Flow at .96 Pa@.028 and max flow at 25mm3/s
New
@Olias Here you go. As close up as I could get my phone to focus. Some of the wave pattern(mostly in the 3rd photo at the upper right) is either from my phone or the lighting. You can kinda tell what is real though. 36 minutes. 5 tops, 5 bottoms, 4 walls and 40% infill as directed by voron. Looks like slight ghosting when looking from a couple inches at the smaller set of letters. Gonna figure out how to tension the belts today and see that makes any affect. Im very happy with the quality though. Especially at these speeds. For normal printing, I never run the outter wall faster than 80. Usually 50.
I’ll add a photo farther away, to compare better with the ones you posted. Theres probably a perfect distance but i suck at photos. As everybody can tell.
Wow! Thanks for sharing such clear pictures. It’s clear that calibrating the PA would improve the print. You don’t need to adjust the belts—this can be easily fixed in the slicer. It’s a minor issue, and most people wouldn’t even notice it unless they were looking for it.
More specifically, as the nozzle makes right-angle bends near corners, the flow doesn’t stop in time. Here’s an example.
The PA pattern calibration tools in Orca are good, but if you really want to fine-tune the results, I’ve found this technique works well and can be printed with minimal filament and time.
Start with a simple cube and scale it to approximately 35x10x25mm. This forms a small tower, with the 35mm side giving the nozzle enough time to reach full velocity. What you’re looking for is the filament’s “cornering” ability. From there, fine-tuning the PA setting requires some trial and error. Printing a few test cubes can significantly reduce or eliminate ghosting in the X/Y motion.
Here’s an example of the results. I mark the tops with the PA setting to keep track. The entire process takes about 30 minutes, even if I don’t nail it on the first try.
The bulge is most noticeable at 0.005 and 0.010, but at 0.020, the corners are nearly perfect.
