Thank you for the Elegoo Rapid PETG settings.
It worked great. I have a P1P and have been looking for Elegoo Settings for their other filament.
Can you share your FlowRate, K Value & Max Vol Metric settings for other Elegoo filaments if you have them? ie. PLA or PLA Plus.
Thank you
Bought a few rolls because it was relatively cheap. Tried calibrating and even the calibrations failed. With just the right combination of glue stick and alcohol wipe down I finally got through the calibration process. Punched in your numbers and finally upped the flow rate from 14 to 24 and, WOW! This stuff prints great. I was trying to print something that is fairly detailed, (Sunflower Windmill by BamBam Design) and kept failing on the first layer but now it looks just like the piece I printed in PLA just to make sure it would print. THANKS!!!
Omg WOW, thank you so much for these settings. I just printed a whole print for the first time ever successfully using LUDICROUS mode! (Video):
I can vouch for the product being a solid choice 
Literally busted a spool out the wrap for a client project due tomorrow in the am so had no time to dry it but I loaded the model and sent it with semi-stock settings.
Printed on an A1-Mini
0.4mm Hardened Steel Nozzle
0.16 LH
40% = 30mm/s Low Threshold ; 90% = 10 mm/s Max Threshold
~ Fan Speed Threshold Values
1.25mm - Retract
Deactivated “Slowdown on Overhangs”
~ 20mm/s - Slowest Speeds
Nozzle Temps
~ FIrst Layer = 250c ; Other Layers = 245c
Bed Temp
~ 70c
Outer Wall Speed
~ 300mm/s
~ Acceleration = 1000mm/s^3
Inner Wall Speed
~ 500mm/s
~ Acceleration = 5000mm/s^3
Normal Printing Speed Acceleration
~ 10,000 mm/s^3
First Layer Speed
~ 30mm/s
Max Volumetric Flowrate
~ 10 mm^2
This is what I’m remembering off the top of my head when I sliced before leaving for work. But we purchased (5) 2x Packs of Black & Gray ELEGOO R-PETG like last month because of a huge deal they had going.
Biggest plus was no defects from not drying and was still air tight sealed in packaging even in our shop environment
I can’t tell you about PETG, BUT I use a lot of their white PLA Rapid+. Already used up to 8Kg and newly I bought sakura pink & orange. They all have amazing print quality without any issues with my X1C. Nozzle at 230°C with 18mm³/s.
4kg of white PLA Rapid+ costs 50€! Once i was lucky and got them for 40€.
Colors are “expensive” with 20€, but on their original web page they cost 12,99€!!
I have also had great results with ELEGOO Rapid +.
The price is great. Often working out around £10-£11 per kg when purchasing in four-packs.
Thank you for posting these settings for A1 mini. FWIW I had to bump up the bed temp to 80c. At 70c the print would unstick from the textured PEI plate, otherwise it all worked great.
No worries happy to provide a start set of parameters 
Yeah bed temps are always going to vary per user. It’s really tough to set a standard print profile for any filament for every user because there’s many variables when printing.
You could also adjust the no cooling for atleast [3] layers and have the first layer bed temp be 80 then dip to 70 and see if that’ll hold up.
When the beds high temp is when it’ll use the most energy also when heating up.
Hi,
I just got some Elegoo Rapid PETG and did the calibration.
Then i found your settings but one thing i can not understand: If your max vol flow rate is 10, then that will drop all the speeds to about 150 mm/s max, considering your LH is 0.16 and i assume LW is 0.42.
Could you please shed some light on this ? I’m a new owner of P1S so i’m still trying to understand stuff.
Cheers
Hey @Momo , Since this post I’ve recently installed the Panda Revo hotend with a Obxidian 0.4mm nozzle. I posted a general starting reference and yes I overlooked the Volumetric Flow Rate essentially being cut in half to the outer wall speed max.
Due to an issue with basic communication from my team… Looked like the standard flow revo obxidian was ordered therefore achieving higher flow rates were compromised in testing…
So results from testing a basic Revo ObXidian 0.4mm Nozzle set @ 18.9 mm/s^3 Max Volumetric Flow & a 1.055 Flow Rate with standard 0.2mm LH (0.42mm Width) - 250mm/s Outer Wall these are the best settings I’ve come to use with this filament.
Very informative. thank you.
I’m printing this filament with max vol speed 20, flow 1, PA 0.04, temp 230, 0.2 line and outer wall 200 mm/s on stock hotend and 0.4 nozzle. Very good results with minimal nozzle buildup.
I wish i cound find out how to get rid of the second prime line and the 1-2 sec stop after the priming lines - as that seems to make 80% of the cases where i get nozzle buildup.
I’ll post my starting gcode I’ve compiled myself for our machines [X1/P1’s] which you can copy & paste yourself and use at own risk. I as well was tired of the amount of time and not to mention sometimes being a pain to remove from the bed. I’m AFK [Home Keyboard].
I’ve not shared my code due to simply not wanting to alter anyone else’s machines as I find it more of an enthusiast ability. Since you requested a hopeful resolution I figured I’d simply share the statement with you.
The code simply alters the [Prime Lines] that are originally placed in the rear RH corner and RH side and [Relocates] them more towards the front as well prints both lines [on top] of each other making the prime line thicker & helps with if nozzle buildup occurs I’ve added a [spiral] when it leaves the prime line operation. This occurs for both prime lines [Front of Bed] & [RH Side of Bed] This is pretty much all and you can also find multiple users via [Printables.com] that also have their own available Start G-Codes uploaded for users to try [At Their Own Risk].
Obviously no ones ever out to ruin someone else’s machine, but if you’re uncomfortable and not quite sure of the actions G & M codes do as functions that’s why it’s at own risk. The printer wont crash itself, basic gcodes have to be written otherwise if there’s errors the slicer will let you know.
On P1S which i have there are 2 prime lines located in front. First starts in Front Left Corner, goes to the right and then comes back - AND exactly after it finishes the prime lines it takes a 1-2 sec break with the nozzle 1-2 mm raised , just enough to start a blob 
Apart from the fact that those prime lines are a pain to remove sometimes, that small pause is enough to just leave a trace.
So i’d like to identify those prime lines and the pause after to just make 1 prime line and directly start printing.
BTW i do not see your startup code posted.
Cheers !
I also ordered the elegoo PLA+ rapid. Lets see. I am new to printing and try different companies and stuff out. PETG i have not purchased due I dont have a dryer unit
I bought some Elegoo PETG Rapid from Amazon, I had great luck with it. It prints cleanly, has a great finish, and prints look good. It will print at 125% speed, and most of the time it will also print at 166% speed, but I have had a few prints fail at this speed. Most important is to make sure it is dry dry dry. I usually dry mine for at least 12hr @ 50C, down to below 20% RH. I also keep it in the dryer, my A1 Mini is set up so that it feeds thru the AMS directly from the dryer, and I always turn the dryer on before starting a print to preheat the filament.
It worked so good I bought another 4 pack of filament, and it’s almost gone so I have to order again.
MG
Yes great looking wall tiles…
holy ■■■■ that’s amazing transparency!
The settings don’t work that way… you should do a volumetric calibration test (the racetrack model) to determine the maximum volumetric flow of your filament… The problem with “sport” and “ludicrous” mode is… those settings just go faster, without regard to the maximum volumetric capabilities of the filament… if you set the actual measured volumetric flow rate of the filament in your filament profile, and set your print speed to 500mm/sec… the model will print at the fastest speed the filament, and the printer, are capable of… ludicrous won’t give you any advantage, because 500mm/sec is already the max of the printer… the difference is, if your filament is only capable of 300mm/sec based on its volumetric flow rate value, the printer won’t exceed that value… but if you use ludicrous, it throws that volumetric speed limit out the window, and just goes for max speed… often exceeding the volumetric flow capability of the filament, resulting in underextrusion.
You can dry filament on your print bed in the P1/X1 printers… see the Bambu Wiki
The problem is, filament manufacturers like Elegoo make outrageous claims, but don’t tell you what they’re based upon… For example, Elegoo says the Rapid PETG can print at up to 600mm/sec… but what does that number ACTUALLY mean… 600mm/sec with what nozzle? if a 0.4mm nozzle, and a 0.2mm layer height, which is “typical”… that works out to an IMPRESSIVE volumetric flow rate of 48 cubic mm/sec… if they did it with a 0.6mm nozzle, then you’re looking at 72 cubic mm/sec… so we really don’t know what "up to 600mm/sec actually means… Its far more likely that to achieve their 600mm/sec print speed, they were using a 0.2mm nozzle at 0.1mm layer height… that works out to a much more likely volumetric flow rate of 12 cubic mm/sec. as the typical for high speed PETG is 8 to 15 cubic mm/sec.