tbh i suspect that’s some bad quality filament.
but what’s the sign of the said clog? do you have some pictures for the prints?
I have no problems with my prints; I’m extremely satisfied. I only use Bambu Lab and Polymaker brand filaments.
Yes, I’m getting a “extrusion failed” warning or a “filament could not be fed” error. Sometimes I also hear a clicking sound in the extruder. I checked the extruder wheels and there was no filament breakage, dust accumulation, or clogging.
When I first bought the printer, I printed with BLB TPU for AMS filament in the AMS 2 Pro and everything was fine. The print was excellent. Later, I wanted to print with PLA and received a hotend clogging warning. I cleared the hotend using a cold pull with an Allen key, then cleaned it using the cold pull method found in H2C, and again I got a great print. Then I had a printing job that required ASA filament, and this time I received the hotend clogging warning again. In short, whenever I print with ASA ABS and PLA, I experience hotend clogging in one or two prints. I use standard print and temperature settings for all my printing jobs. I only increased the bed and hotend temperature by 5 degrees once.I don’t use any filament brands other than Bambu Lab and Polymaker.
I am sorry if I did not catchy this - does this happen only on that one nozzle or on all 6?
I know it does not help but I also have 400h, 90% PETG HF, 10% ASA, ABS, TPU and have not encountered a single clog.
Hence I would also assume there is something wrong with the extruder. I read of people having a myriad of problems and tightening a couple of screws fixed it….maybe it is worth a try?
Also read of a guy where a tiny piece of filament was stuck in the gears and causing errors…
I also had a biiig issue with the left nozzle - an extruder disassembly and reassembly somehow fixed it.
Thank you very much for your interest. I have never printed with the 0.2 and 0.6mm hotends in the Vortex system. However, I have printed many color prints with the other 0.4mm hotends and experienced clogging problems in most of them. Afterwards, I disassembled the extruder and checked it; there was neither filament dust nor any filament fragments. I cannot understand this problem. Clogging only occurs in the left hotend every two or three prints. I have reported my problem to both the technical service in my country and Bambulaba, but no solution has been found yet.
Sorry for the confusion - I meant does it occur on all Vortek hotends. So it does clog regularly on all 4 0.4mm ones that you have.
Man, I hope you get this sorted - as other pointed out, this is not a common issue with regular filaments. MAYBE you have somehow killed / scratched the hotends with your AllenKey method that makes them more prone to clogging? I personally needed to google this method and would stick to the standard.
Yes My Friend. I will definitely never clean these induction hotends using an Allen wrench again. This will be a lesson learned.
I had a plugged right side hotend after printing Elegoo 95A TPU. The prints came out fine I then did the proper unload sequence. Next time I tried to use the hotend with PLA I discovered it was plugged. I tried to do a cold pull with some eSun cleaning filament even at the highest temperature and it would not feed the filament.
After much trial and error I placed the hotend in a vice lightly clamped on about a 45 deg angle induction end pointing upward. Using a heat gun I got the induction end as hot as I could then tried to manually force some ABS in the hotend, still plugged. I did the same procedure but this time put a little heat on the heat sink end. I finally got the ABS to feed and flushed the nozzle then allowed it to cool a bit and pulled the ABS from the nozzle. Placed it back in the rack and did a proper cold pull, all good now.
I figure the plug was in the upper/cold end of the hotend and just never got hot enough to melt the TPU which I think may have melted to the side walls of the upper end after printing with it. But who knows I could be wrong? Anyway, I now know the procedure and it is an easy fix. Next time I print TPU I’ll try to flush the nozzle right after printing the TPU.
That’s what BL recommends. I thought is sounded janky, myself. Haven’t tried it so maybe I shouldn’t knock it. But, pushing a blunt tool in there? I can’t believe that’s the best (recommended) way to extract stuck filament.
There are probably already tools for this out there…? I haven’t looked.
I’m picturing something like an electrical connector removal tool – a hollow metal tube with thin walls, the correct OD to fit into the top of the hotend, not too tight, and grip the filament from the outside. Bonus features would be a slick outside coating (keep the inside of hotend smoother), maybe a sharpened leading lip (like on a leather hole punch), and a slight barb on the inside near the tip to hook the filament like a fish. And a “max” model with electric heater… 
Is there some way to do this besides doing a cold pull? (Or ideally have the printer do it? 
) Feels like a newb question, but I’ve searched and “cold pull” is basically what I get. I understand the mechanics… it has to get forced out of there somehow, so I get the problem… just wondering if there’s an easier way.
Thanks,
-Max
Really This is awesome idea. 
Congrats!!!
I wouldn’t think you would have to do a cold pull just reloading filament through it would accomplish the same thing. I just did the cold pull because it’s easy on the H2C.
Complete newbie printer here. 1200hrs on my H2C, BL & Non genuine filament and not one single clog and not one failed print. Still on original hotends also. Only thing is l only print from Makerworld site…if that makes any difference.
I’ve used my H2C for 78 hours. I had one induction nozzle clog after two weeks. I opened a ticket with Bambu. I followed their instructions. I did not use any Allen wrenches, just PLA and PETG white filament for the cleaning filament and the cleaning needle that came with the printer. The needle would go 33 mm into the nozzle. The extruder would just click during the cold pull (I used the cold pull on the control panel). Bambu replaced the nozzle. In the past, on an H2D, I had a new nozzle clog within one week of using it. I think sometimes the nozzle is just bad.
You might be right. I sometimes hear that clicking sound coming from the extruder too.
Same here. Must be user error
Do you think it could be length or placement of PTFE tubes? Too short tubing , or sharp bends may affect filament paths. I haven’t had any clogs yet and I just crossed 300 plus hours. Just pushing out ideas. Hope you figure it out.
First of all, thank you for your interest. The PTFE is 60 cm long and there is no kinking whatsoever. Yesterday I received a suggestion from Bambu Lab support. I will try it as soon as possible and see what happens.
I clogged a new (never used before) 0.2 hotend with ABS. Just one time. But after replacing the hotend I found that the filament sensor is stuck. So, I had to disassemble the head and clean the sensor lever. It all works fine now, but I am not going to use ABS in the right hotend again. I have H2D and it prints with ABS using 0.2 hotends with no issues. And the right hotend of H2C does not have issues with other materials.
What filament are you using, which is clogging your H2C? Are you using a CF or Marble, which should not be used with the size diameter you are running? Something is off…Also, why would you use the allen key method of pulling filament instead of a cold pull? ? ?
Wow sounds like you have had a very bad time. I currently am running 3 H2C and all of them are running .4 nozzles and I have yet to have one clog and they have a combined 3700 hours on them since December. I have run everything from pla to abs. Now I have not run any of the engineering filaments nor any of the reinforced ones. Sorry to hear about your problems but hope you are able to get it figured out.