I was not offered a new part.
The nozzle wiggle is gone, but I can’t tell if that enhanced the print quality because I had another, bigger problem which affected print quality at that time.
Reassembly was no problem. I was kinda nervous while desassembling but that’s not neccesary, it’s just screws, plugs and routed cables.
@Testurbator Thanks for the feedback… Ill have an eye on the “issue” but wont do anything until a problem occurs during printing. Good luck with you machine
I saw this thread initially but didn’t follow it and didn’t notice the conclusion.
Could you confirm there is some kind of bearing on the rods that doesn’t appear in any of your photographs? If so what does it look like and is made of?
Thanks. This forum (or its hosting) is flaky. I see the earlier images but the one posted 7 days ago is just a grey placeholder with the file name. Sometimes clicking these boxes or dragging them to a new window will show me the full size image. Today it does, yesterday it didn’t. Today if I right click the box and select open image in new tab I get:
Mine had a lil play and noticed on my X1C, delivered January 2023, had springs applying tension to the top bearing. Also they stopped using the graphite added bearing and are using the same as the P1P
Not really, gotta get it torn apart enough to loosen the screws of the clamshell to see if there’s any spring tension on the top bearing. I would say it’s safe to assume any printer delivered since Jan 2023 is using these bearings.
Just to throw this out there - I had a job where we had plastic assemblies that had to be disassembled a lot. There’s a trick that helps to keep from stripping the threads. Seems a lot of steps but it’s quick once you’ve got it. I used Bold for emphasis
This should be your standard procedure when reassembling plastic parts.
It starts with disassembly. When removing the screws, be neat. Layout the screws where they won’t be disturbed and place them in the pattern you removed them. Why? Each screw is slightly different! They’re mass produced, not finely machined, the threads can vary a lot. Putting them back in the wrong hole will cut new threads!!
Take a second to remove any old plastic from the threads. You want them clean. Failure will bugger the threads.
When inserting, hand place, (or if you must place mounted on a tool), do NOT start screwing. Instead, gently slide the screw in until contact is made and stop.
Next, gently turn backwards (usually CCW) while feeling and listening for a “click”. It may take several tries, use gentle inward pressure until you feel the click. STOP TURNING. No click, try again. Sometimes you just wont. Best guess time.
Now start screwing but feel. If resistance repeat backwards. If you got the right start spot the screw will move smoothly as it’s following it’s own thread hole.
There’s a ‘feel’ to a lot of this, like any other skill it grows with practice, but if you do this each time, you can reassemble plastic housings many times, it’s a handy skill to have - you are printing plastic 3D assemblies, yes?
Cheers
I have approx 0,25 mm play on toolhead Bambu Lab X1-Carbon tool head play - YouTube. When I asked bambulab support, they told me several hundreds of mm play is OK. When I told them I have 0,25 mm their reply was it is also OK Nice… now I can only hope the play will not influence print quality.