I was encountering artifacts on the domed surface of one of my prints even with variable layer height enabled, so I slowed the layer speeds down to try and get some improvement. I was very surprised to see that it appeared to make things worse.
The print failed lower down on the model, too. Here is what the slicer preview looked like for both layer speed and layer height. Any idea for what might be the culprit?
I slowed my PETG prints to a max of 150mm/s in all settings and it fixed all the gobbing issues I had right out of the box. Using Bambu PETG at standard settings (except for speed).
this is good info, I’ve had some issues when printing their PETG. I’ll be trying your recommendation. I couldn’t get their PETG with the print profile to print reliably.
Versuchen Sie eine konstante Schichthöhe von 0,2mm, bei max. 90mm/s und einer Drucktemperatur von 255°C. Das Flussverhältnis stellen Sie auf 0,95. Den K-Faktor ermitteln Sie manuell. Wenn es dann nicht funktioniert trocknen Sie das Filament eventuell. Wenn es funktioniert ändern Sie nach und nach die Druckparameter und sehen Sie, wie sich das Druckbild verändert.
Damit PETG stabile Ergebnisse liefert muss es heiß und langsamer gedruckt werden. Das können Sie an dem Schornstein eines Benchy ausprobieren.
Since you’ve already tried slowing down the print(a good first choice BTW), the next obvious question is, have you tried drying the filament? While there could be other factors, the fact that slowing down the print appears to have made the problem worse would lead me to try drying the filament as a next step. This is especially since PETG is so hydroscopic and seems to absorb water just by looking at it. BTW: What is the humidity on your printing area and how long was the filament laying in the open air. I keep mine sealed but it still absorbs water from the surrounding air while in use. I refuse to buy a fancy drying box but I might build one.
Don’t waste your money on dryer. I’ve done a ton of research and all they are is a plastic box with a reptile tank heater and some glowy LED temp indicators. You can build one using a discarded cardboard filament box. I did and it is working fantastic. In fact the X1 has a dryer mode which the P1P does not but you can easily improvise. FYI: I’ve tried doing in my kitchen oven and although that worked, I did not like having to keep an eye on it. Plus, I didn’t feel too good about the idea of food vapors on the oven surface possibly contaminating my filament as will as filament material contaminating my oven walls.
Here’s the video that gave me the idea. for PLA, set your bed temp for 60C and for PETG set it for 70C. Let it run overnight. Make sure you weigh your filament before and after to ensure that moisture was in the filament. Remember 1g = 1ml = 1cc of water.
And here’s my implementation. You’ll notice I’m experimenting with a USB powered fan to ensure airflow but truth be told. That hasn’t proven to work any better.
That worked fantastic for me. As an example, I had a cheap filament I got off Amazon that was nothing but problems. I then dried it and found out that there was 2.7% water in the filament based on before and after weight. The filament performed much better but still not perfect. It was simply bad filament.
With PETG, I got greedy and thought, hell… if 70C worked well, let’s see what 90C will do. I had the fan turn off.
Here’s that result at 90C overnight. DOH!!! Yes, PETG has higher temperatures… but… the spool doesn’t LOL.
I was able to rewind the filament onto another spool so it wasn’t a total loss but it was a learning lesson.
