Hello,
I have been trying to print parts for my grandfather’s model railroad for a few days now. However, I am encountering some problems as you can see in the pictures. I have set seamless support in the slicer and selected PETG as the interface material (as PLA and PETG do not fuse together and the transitions become extremely smooth). I need four of the components, initially I wanted to print all four at once, but I already had problems with the adhesion of the second layer and the whole thing ended up in a spaghetti salad. I then tested different PLAs, varied the print bed and nozzle temperature and still always had the same problem. I didn’t make it any further than the filament change to PETG with four parts at a time. Then I tried printing one part at a time, the result is better, but still not good.The print finishes but you can see individual strings and the layer adhesion is so poor that the components simply break when the support is removed. I have also had problems with layer adhesion with ABS printed parts and easier parts without filament change for example. It can’t be humidity, which is around 25% in my AMS.
In addition to the problems with layer adhesion, the print sometimes peels off the bed, despite cleaning and a print bed temperature of 55 degrees, which is normally more than sufficient.
I would be very grateful if someone could tell me what I am doing wrong or what I need to change.
Best regards,
Lasse
I would start with cleaning the plate with dish soap and warm water. I used to just wipe the plate with isopropyl between prints, but have found a wash really is needed periodically. Long and thin prints can also benefit from a brim to help keeps attached.
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Glue… It works… My newest test glue is Titebond 3 wood glue from Lowes, it works great on PLA and PETG on all plates, almost too great on big parts… Don’t use it on the smooth design plates, it still works but will not show the design on the print… Use the clear glue for smooth plates…
When using the wood glue, wash after every 3 to 5 prints as it sticks really good… using the clear I have gone days with just reapplying…
As @nightfallvt said, a brim will also work great, I use outer brim only, 5mm and brim object gap of 0
Amazon product/B09WMXHQ17
Lowes Titebond-16-Oz-III-Ultimate-Wood-Glue/1017425
Amazon product/B00R3APBUE
Alright thanks so far, I will try washing the plate and glue it before printing again, that should fix the problem with the bed adhesion.
But I don’t think it will fix the problem with the layer adhesion. Any recommendations on that?
So far with my P1S the only times I’ve had layer adhesion issues has been with cheap filaments. In general, increasing hotend temp, reducing cooling and / or slower print speed is recommended.
With a 55C bed don’t forget to leave the door and top open with PLA and PETG. Having the closed can lead to heat creep and clogging, but I also wonder if other extrusion issues can pop up.
Surprised no one has mentioned this, but given the orientation, that looks like the side facing the Aux fan where warping occurred. Since it looks like you’re using PLA to print, the default profiles have the Aux fan set to 75%. Turn that off (or 0%) in the filament settings under “Cooling” and open the door about an inch (or prop the glass top open some. Both methods help avoid heat creep, not always necessary but worth a shot)
The Aux fan by default is set way too high and causes warping on prints like those (speaking from experience) unless a brim is used (even then it can occur)
Unless I’m printing something really really fast, or with lots of bridging and overhangs, I typically turn the aux fan off. Hope this helps!
Good point. Disabling that aux fan is one of the first things I did months ago and had forgotten about it 
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As I said I used different filaments some cheap, some higher priced. The filament with the best adhesion to the bed was white standard PLA from Amazon Basics. But the layer adhesion wasn’t good either. The other filaments were from eSun, I thought eSun would be a good brand. I worked with grey and black PLA+. Grey was alright and sticked ok to the bed. I tried multiple prints with a newly opened roll black PLA+ from eSun and couldn’t finish a single print, all ended up in spaghetti.
I did some prints with ABS from Sunlu (printer closed), the bed adhesion was great but the layer adhesion was not.
I knew that the printer needs to be open, so the door and the top were opened all the time.
What do you mean with that?
Alright, I printed a new one without having the Aux fan turned on. The print didn’t warp but the lines from the first picture I attached were similar and not gone. The layer adhesion was bad either, the outer walls broke immediately as I removed the support structures.
Could you explain me what’s the difference between the Aux fan and the fans attached to the print head. Don’t they have the same function?
I tried other prints without support but since now nothing sticks to the build plate anymore. I already tried scrubbing the plate with fine steel wool and white spirit, then washed it under warm water with dish soap. But still every print fails!
I just meant I’m not sure if there are other symptoms of heat creep before it gets to the point of a clog. Under-extrusion, over-extrusion for instance. I’ve never had a problem so can’t say. You have the printer open so it should be a problem anyway.
The aux fan is the large on on the left side. It provides extra cooling for high speed printing. The print head has separate fans for part cooling and cooling the hot end to keep the cold zone cool (ie to prevent heat creep).
With glue the print comes off the build plate? I have never been able to use no glue, mine would all fail without it… Even cheap school stick glue works, that is what we started out with… Go to the dollar store down the street, grab a couple sticks of glue and wipe it on the plate and print anything off makerworld using the Bambu handy app… Or print the 3dbenchy from the SD Card… Both should print perfect the first time…
You will then look at those setting compared to the setting you are using and see what is different… (not the Benchy as it is only Gcode) Almost every print has slight differences, I am printing an Articulated dragon now that kicks the Aux fan to 100% after every filament change because it has major overhangs… It is a 19 hour print and came out perfect with no brim… Using the wood glue mixture it stuck like a pro to the plate… makerworld /en/models/55289#profileId-56818
I tried another filament from Bambu, the orange one that comes with the printer. The print sticked very well to the buildplate without using any glue. I might try printing the other filaments using a gluestick, I hope that solves the problems for bed adhesion for all filaments as @Corvette_Casey says.
A different problem occured, since today my printer makes weird rattle noises at higher speeds. Prints fail again. At standard speed everything seems to be alright. Except this:
When I change the speed from standard to sport it begins to rattle. And the print becomes messy.
You can hear the sounds here: https://youtu.be/ucwhFbSa2ms
I don’t think the sounds are common.
I’m just reaching but, what setting did you select for your bed? Cool plate or Textured PEI plate?
I always select Textured Pei plate in Bambu Studio
Happy New Year… Did you print the benchy? or something else from makerworld not changing any settings? We need to find out if it is a setting that is off…
Also, Stick with stick glue or the dab and seal glue… The wood glue is too strong and waterproof so it does not like coming off…
I found on another thread and it worked for me! My bed adhesion problem was solved by taking the sheen off of the build plate using “000 Steel Wool” As if you were polishing it… then clean with dish soap and water, then clean with alcohol. Almost everything sticks well to the plate now.
ALMOST… i have trouble when i try to print a large circle… I’ll look around for the answer to that then I will post asking for help… but …yes, try steel wool
Happy new year. Yes I indeed printed the presliced benchy from the SD card. And the quality is alright. Bed adhesion was good aswell, thanks @touchmyplant, I did the steel wool thing again and now everything sticks very good to the bed - with glue even more.
But the rattling noises aren’t gone. Unfortunately they got even louder. I filmed it, I’m not sure if the sounds are clear to hear in the video but I feel like the sound is coming from the right side of the printer and does corelate with the movement of the print head. Here is some video footage of the rattling:
And here a picture of the Bench, I think it looks alright, some minor irregularities where I changed the speed, but overall good quality:
That is from the hot end moving so fast… mine does the same exact thing when I’m printing the benchy… turn your P1S off for a couple minutes and turn it back on today… you should get the brand new firmware update that will quiet down all the motors drastically… after you update do the calibration again and you will see just how much quieter it is… It was kind of crazy as I did mine this morning… I’m going to have to try that steel wool trick on mine…
I updated the printer before I printed the benchy and before i recorded the videos, so shouldn’t it be quiet?
For the steel wool trick, don’t be too gentle, i scrubbed the plate pretty hard.
