I can’t even understand how you’re are able to draw 3d objects without being able to visualizing them in your mind first. That’s blow my mind.
I guess you have a very analytical way of doing things.
I have a 30-year background of writing computer software for desktops initially, then the web, and finally mobile apps before I had to sell the company.
I use OpenSCAD to create all my models as it uses a programming language to make everything. I cannot use visual-based editing CAD software.
Every model I design starts as circles, rectangles, extrusions, and boolean operations. Building it this way means I only have to consider the association between what I just added and what I add or cut next.
It isn’t easy, but, as I said, I can’t ‘imagine’ any other way.
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That makes sense. I should try learn openScad. I really like it’s parametric capabilities. For the end-user, it’s way cleaner and less buggy than how fusion does it.
It just so counter intuitive for me to design 3d objects in code, and I’m a front end web Dev XD
It makes it very easy to create ranges of a single design.
If you look at my Willies Collection, there are repeatable components, and with specific customisations, more unique designs like the USA & Monster variants are possible.
This became very easy to achieve.
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@MalcTheOracle
I have perfect candidate for this. I’ve made this parametric design on fusion. It would be fun to try to replicate it on openSCAD 
And I’m struggling with parametric text on fusion. I can’t achieve to do what I want, aka use a length variable value as text. 
Learn from others.
https://www.printables.com/model/258431
The most common remixed rugged box (which itself is a remix of a rugged box with tweaks).
Even I have been able to edit the variables panel (I know that isn’t what you meant).
You could see how it connects the parametric parts in the model as it really is a good example of the way to do it right.
I have no issue with the general parameters in fusion. I have issue for adding variables inside the text tool.
I want to embos text containing variables like you did for the thickness of your feeler gauges for example.
But fusion doesn’t has this feature. There is plugin that enables variables inside text but the doc is basically inexistant so I’ve never succeed to do it. I don’t know if it’s even possible to do what I want with that plugin…
So yeah it’s time to learn openSCAD ^^`
I’ve sent you a present in your messages.
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I’ve used openscad only for the past five years or so. Blender it is not. But, you learn a few dozen basic commands, the strict, almost c++ syntax, the sort of functional structure, a bit of algebra and geometry, and it is quite surprising what you can achieve. I put a few models on thingiverse, because they had a customiser, that the openscad group sort of copied, but their version of the software is way out of date. For functional prints it can’t be beaten.
Here’s an example for printing a parametric lid and box for any size, in vase mode.- use up all your odd lengths of filament. (the code is ‘complicated’ since the corners are rounded using the Minkowski function, and I’ve added the variables for use with the customiser.)
// simple box for vase mode with rounded corners
/* [simple box with lid (must be printed in vase mode)]*/
// length of box
l = 60.01;
//width of box
w = 40.01;
//height of box
h = 30;
// height of lid
hl = 20;
// wall thickness plus fitting tolerance
t = 2.2 ;
// corner radius
r=4;
/* [printing ****** MUST BE IN VASE MODE *****]/
// Select parts to print (box or lid,).
op = “box”; //[ box,lid,both]
///////////////////
s=2*t;
module box(){
translate([0,0,r])
difference(){
minkowski(){
cube([l-r-r,w-r-r,h-r]);
sphere(r);
}
translate([-l,-w, h-r])
cube([3l,3w,h]);
}
}
module lid(){
translate([0,0,r+t])
difference(){
minkowski(){
cube([l-r-r,w-r-r,h-r]);
sphere(r+t);
}
translate([-l,-w, hl-r])
cube([3l,3w,h]);
}
}
if (op == “box”) {
box();
}
$fn=80;
if (op==“lid”) {
lid();
}
if (op==“both”){
box();
translate([0,w+70,0])lid();
}
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Thanks, I’ll take a look at it tomorrow
Most of my recent photos I’m using IKEA dining chairs (in two colors) as the back drop 
Just to give a more consistent look as some have pointed out.
Also I waited for a sunny day to get loads of ambient light, which is important since I’m using a phone camera.
Not top notch results, but for now seems adequate until it’s worthwhile investing in more professional gear.
3 Likes
That has to be terrifying. It would scare the s*** out of me every day. I would have to carry pictures of family/friends with me at all times to help me from losing it.
I’m the exact opposite. Sometimes I can’t get an idea out of my head until it’s completed, even if it doesn’t end up published like my playing cards.
This is brilliant. I haven’t seen this done before. No need for anything other than light. With smaller models, you’d be able to crop it so you can’t even tell it’s a chair.
I took a look at your page. The chairs provide a nice looking background.
Thank you for the kind comment. Hopefully this idea helps some. The curved back of the chair is key.
I hope you printed one of the many > 1 hr print time, may-earn-a-Boost-token qualifying models while you’re on my page 
I bought some artificial grass samples in various colours that I place things on top of when I take photos.
I also have some flexible kitchen cutting boards, they come in a few colours, and the bottom has a great texture to take photos against.
Using non-traditional things to help stage photos is cheap and interesting.
I love that a post that started out calling out a fraud, has turned into a post with people helping each other to take better pictures.
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Binary moves in mysterious ways!
Flooring. It’s a great way to create neat photos. I’ve printed out a photo of a background and stuck flooring underneath. Throw it all in a cardboard box with white interior walls to reflect light, and boom! Instant photo box. Just add light 
White posterboard inside another cardboard box for a plain bg, and there’s my setup.
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