Fastest way to cool-off build plate and print without damaging?

X1C warms up reasonably fast and obviously prints fast, but cooling off is still a bit of a bottleneck. The fastest way I’ve found (so far) is to remove the build plate (with print attached) from the X1C and then use compressed air from an oil-less air compressor to blast cool air over the surface. Seems to work! Anyone have a better method, or am I the only one who wonders how to speed up the cool down? I assume that most of us were attracted to the X1C mainly because of its speed, so this query is aligned with that.

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I just remove the build plate and place it on my desk or workbench. After maybe ten seconds I place it on a different spot and repeat this two or three times. The desk sucks out so much heat from the plate that even after having it at 90°C it is cool to the touch in less than a minute.

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lol I just wave the plate around gently, takes like 15 seconds

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I have a dedicated Mouse Pad that I place my Plate on, within 30 to 40 seconds, the parts are free, even when printing ABS or ASA, where the Plate is damned hot when removing it.

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I saw a suggestion from another site to put the plate in the freezer to cool it off fast.

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Yup. Before switching to compressed air, I used your method. Later I even acquired a square foot of 1" thick piece of plate steel (for a different project) that I would put the build plate on to wick away heat. When I moved the X1C to the garage, I suddenly had access to “free” compressed air, and it works surprisingly fast.

I do that always with my I3 buildplates.
In the freezer everything pops of

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The plate is flexible, just bend it to free the print. Am I missing something?

Yes, if you bend it while hot, the print will still stick too hard and possibly tear away the bed coating. Or break your print, or permanently bend your plate (if you really try too hard :slight_smile: )

I’ve noticed that the smooth PEI sheet from Bambu Lab indeed is not very sticky (yes I cleaned it with detergent) even with the glue stick applied.
Got very poor adhesion of the first layer with or without the glue stick.

Then I tried the spray on 3DLAC glue and it just works like a charm. Perfectly sticky when hot, smooth release when cold and soo much easier to apply (no chunks !)

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I use a 1/2" thick plate of aluminum and it cools the build plate in about 10 seconds.

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I’m genuinely surprised people are that time conscious that they feel the need to assist the plate cooling. I mean the thing takes 5-6 minutes to do it’s pre-print process!

For PLA, PETG where the bed isn’t super hot and they parts don’t warp easily, you can remove them after a minute or so without worry. You can set the aux fan (if fitted) to come on full blast after the print has finished if you want it to cool quickly.

If you are running a business and are that time constrained, get a second plate and start the next job.

But especially with ASA, ABS, PC, PC/ABS, I find it almost mandatory to leave the plate to cool down slowly in the printer to prevent parts from warping. Some large parts will just bend with the plate if you remove it from the magnetic surface before it’s cooled down enough.

But then, each to their own. I’d also rather slow down a print to ensure a perfect result, rather than print fast and risk failure of the model.

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I am under impression that the glue stick is recommended for PEI plate to protect against sticking too much. PEI plate +3D Lac makes wonders. I’ve heard that strongest hair spray does the same.

I use an old cr10 bed with a magnet sheet on it. Pulls the heat out fast while keeping it flat. While it cools, i grab a spare plate and start the next print. I felt that leaving it in the printer allowed the upper part of the print to cool fast while the part touching the bed cooled very slow. sometimes warping(abs and sometimes asa.) and pulling the plate up anyway.

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I use the bottom side of a large “Stainless Steel Tray” as shown below which conducts and dissipate heat fast.

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You do not get warping from cooling ASA or ABS that fast?

Use two plates.

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I usually hate to see people promoting their models in the forum, but you might find this plate cooler useful. I use it all the time. (search for model: Plate Cooler by DamianB2

I switched from compressed air to an air duster:

Not as fast or efficient as true compressed air (because of the added cooling effect when compressed air expands), but far more convenient.

Try using a defrosting plate… such as used for defrosting frozen food…they are quite cheap and flat too so very efficient.

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