Hi, I’m surprised this doesn’t exist already (maybe it does?) but I sometimes have prints where it stops extruding partway through for whatever reason like a nozzle/extruder clog but still finishes the print. If I am not monitoring and pause/resolve the issue immediately it ruins the print, and is very frustrating on long prints.
Here’s the feature request - could you enable a setting to start/resume a print from a given layer number, rather than from the first layer? That way I could determine which layer it failed on, fix the problem, and then print the rest of the model on top. Of course, it won’t be ideal with the printed material fully cooled, but that could be mitigated by pre-heating the bed. A bonus feature would be if the printer could determine which layer it failed on automatically by touching off the height of the print with the nozzle at a user-specified point, just like it determines bed height during leveling (or would micro lidar work well for this?). Otherwise, if you added a feature to timelapse that showed the layer number during video playback, the failed layer could be determined by reviewing that footage. Would be nice to also be able to specify where in the layer to resume printing, if it can be determined (though this wouldn’t matter on many prints of mine). This could help recover spaghetti failures as well, so long as they weren’t caused by the model collapsing or fuse so much extraneous filament to the model that it can’t be cleaned off.
I’m also interested if there is a way to do this with the current version of the slicer, so anyone that knows please chime in!
I’d like to request a new feature for Bambu Studio to make it easy to resume a print from a specific layer in a print even if the print was ‘stopped’. This would save a lot of time and money on large prints if they stop printing 20 hours in for no apparent reason as just happened to me and seems like it should be easy to implement into the software.
It would also be really helpful if the print head could measure where the print got to on the z axis so I don’t have to use a tape measure and basically guesstimate. From what I can see on the A1 when you home the print head using the screen on the printer it does not even tell you the location of the print head which was a common feature on older printers.
First of all: This shouldn’t happen ^^ At least so rarely that such a feature would probably not really be high on the list.
And if something does stop, the likelihood that it happened during a layer change is pretty low. You also have a certain amount of progress per layer. So if layer 1432 is already 85% complete, do you want to start again in layer 1432 and simply drive over the previous line? Or do you want to start in layer 1433 and then have an unfinished layer underneath?
Print failures and the need/want to restart a print at a specific layer are quite common aren’t they. I’m not sure exactly why but my print stopped printing at about 80% completion. The printer itself thinks it completed the print and the full time to print was displayed on the end screen but no filament was extruded after around 80% of the way through the print. So it looks like it could have been a clog in the nozzle but everything seems to be working fine now but I will look for instructions on declogging the nozzle before my next print just in case.
There are ways to restart prints from a specific layer but it involves modifying the Gcode in notepad outside of bambu studio and people use this method successfully. I’ve looked into this but on the A1 you cannot use the print head to determine height of the model and when I extract the 3mf file that the software created to get a whole plethora of files and folders so it’s very difficult for me to know where to even start with that, or how I would put all those files back into a .3mf.
I understand that there will probably be a line in the print and it won’t be perfect but it’s better than losing £8+ worth of filament and lots of time when a large print has issues deep into the print.
It just seems to me this would be a very useful feature for a lot of people.
Okay, not in my world Something is going very wrong if that happens often.
I had that happen once, but I calculated the time incorrectly myself and switched off the printer with smart plug before the print was finished. Apart from that, I haven’t had a case like the one you describe in the last 13 years.
I understand your approach, but until then I hadn’t realised that this would be a common problem. Sounds really wild It’s a shame that this happens to you more often, which is of course annoying with the waste.
I once had a blocked nozzle on an old printer, but I only measured the previous piece, then cut the model in the slicer and reprinted the rest. Later, I simply glued the two parts together. Which may even hold up better than unfinished layers on top of each other.
As the stepper motors are not always energised and will forget their position at some point, it is of course not so easy to measure them without homing in between.
PLEASE add this.
No, it’s not a frequent problem, but it IS a problem, and any time it comes up on a big / long / expensive print it SUCKS.
I’m shocked it doesn’t exist already - several of the other big slicers have this baked in, and the ones that don’t have simple(ish) ways to do it manually. So it’s clearly not a hard thing to do. But Bambu goes out of the way to make it nearly impossible, even if you’re willing to do some risky / tedious workarounds.
You’ve already lost the print aesthetically if this happens. Even if it theoretically were a feature, and somehow managed to “home and calibrate” without crashing into stuff on the plate, the “home” will never be exactly lined up to when the steppers were previously energized. In addition, time has elapsed, and cooling/shrink has occurred. The best you can hope for is a layer line. So if thats the best, just cut the model in your slicer at that layer, print the other half, and use epoxy/glue to glue the halves together.
This sounds like something an AI hallucinated. Can you show an example?
There I sliced the plate, but made sure the missing part was where it was before, floating in the air. To do that, group it with a small cube or anything really, and move the cube to below the print plate so as not to print it. This stops the object from falling to the build plate and keeps on floating.
Something is going very wrong if that happens often.
