This filament reminds me of the days before Bambu Lab. I have dried it. I did Flow Dynamics and Rate calibration, I recalibrated the printer. I even bought a Glacier print plate. Nothing has made it print well. Latest is the filament sticking to the nozzle (which probably means it isn’t sticking to the bed properly and YES the plate was clean).
Does anyone have any advice about this?
That kind of behavior indicates filament moisture. The filament curls when it exits the nozzle and can encase print heads.
It was dried for 10 hours.
What brand and colour is that?
It looks translucent.
I dry it something close to 20-24 hours.
It’s Bambu PETG-HF Dark grey.
Must be the lighting, it looks like the BL Transparent Blue.
I haven’t had any issues with PETG HF from BL, I know that doesn’t help you though.
Thank man. I know. I just wish I could fix this. I don’t understand the problem.
I’m not saying that this is the issue but just to rule out a faulty temp reading. Have you inspected the nozzle underneath the silicone sock?
It wouldn’t be the first occasion where someone reported that filament in the condition of your photo wedged itself under the sock thus giving the printer false nozzle temp readings which creates more backup which further exacerbates the problem. Here’s a photo from when I had such an issue.
From the outside of the sock, everything looked normal. What I was missing is that the back of the sock was budging with excess filament. I could not easily see it from the front or the sides which is why I missed it.
This is what the undressed nozzle looked like after I picked off a lot of the filament. enough so I could properly remove the nozzle and do a full cleaning and inspection. The good news is that if you place the nozzle in the freezer, the filament becomes brittle enough to easily chip off.
Once I placed the nozzle–with a new sock!!!-- back into service, it performed flawelssly.
Here are a couple of tools I might recommend to ensure that nozzle temp is not a problem.
IR thermometer “With Laser”(very important)
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ir+thermometer+with+laser
Buy cheap not expensive. I have a $60 version and a $10 version and they perform the same.
Inspection mirror with light. Get the one with the moveable light. This alone will save your back and your eyesight. This is the one I loved so much I got two and I am a cheap f*ck that hates to spend money. I purchased two others that were garbage because they required you to unscrew the batter cover and the light didn’t pivot.
Just be careful to get that pivoting light. This one as an example is one I purchased but now the same link shows the non-pivot light even though I clicked on this in my purchase history.
Thanks for this. I’ll look into the nozzle and sock. I don’t think it’s a temp issue since the printer delivers beautiful PLA prints, but I’ll check that too.
Does the printer also know that you are trying to pribt on a Glacier plate?
As mentioned, it’s mainly to rule out a temp issue. Just note that you may be on the edge of tolerance for that filament.
You could try boosting the nozzle temp by 15-20c just to ensure that filament is very molten. I run my Bambu PETG HF at much lower temps that I do others, 250-255 for regular PETG, 230-245 for Bambu HF and for Elegoo Rapid PETG, I’ve found 255 to be the sweet spot.
I use the “Textured PEI” setting. Your suggestions/hints?
Did you monitor before/after weights and humidity in the dryer?
Unfortunately PETG HF is a hygroscopic filament and common filament dryers have limitations in how they remove water.
Time, temperature, and humidity in the drying chamber are all important to knowing how well drying is working. There’s a number of threads here on drying if you want to dive deeper.
You can calibrate out some moisture issues but not all. At some point you just have to dry. You can weigh before and after drying to see how much water left but that doesn’t tell you how well your filament dried if the weight difference is small - was it dry to begin with or was drying ineffective?
Filament can arrive fresh from the shipping box/bag with too much moisture to print properly. If your drying method is ineffective and you are starting with a wet spool, no amount of calibration or adjustments can fix that.
Can’t say for certain it’s water but it could be.
You know… I just ran into this issue yesterday morning when I opened my printer to find mu overnight print, a plate full of beautiful spaghetti filament. 
The culprit was that I was using a smooth engineering plate and I had it set to PEI. The engineering plate like it better at about 5-10c higher and if one accidentally uses a texture PEI plate at that temp, no harm no foul. If you’re using one of the cool plates, ignore that advice and stick to what the manufacturer suggests otherwise you may ruin the plate over time.
Some batches are worse than others - I’ve had some print fine after 6 hours of drying and some print poor after 48 straight hours of drying (turning every few hours) - I’ve resorted to printing from a filament dryer for all single colour prints. I think your problem is moisture.
If it’s not a Bambulab plate then it doesn’t recognize it. But as you do not mention it’s displaying a message about that, I think the Glacier plate contains a copied QR code sticker. Still I would rule out the plate by first trying an oem Bambulab plate.
Drying filament longer than necessarily doesn’t make it print better. So remove the sock and clean the nozzle then if the sock looks ok place it back or use a new one, then print again with the stock plate using a known print like the default benchy.
