Filament Calibration WORSENS prints - only FULL RESET of X1 fixes!

• Mac Mini M2 Pro, on Mac OS Sonoma 14.4.1.
• BambuStudio 1.8.4.51 (tried 1.9 beta too) or OrcaSlicer 2.0.0.
• Bambu Lab X1 Carbon Combo (w/ AMS), ~11 days old.
• Creality/Overture/Inland(MicroCenter) PLA, or Inland PETG+ / Polymaker-PolyLite PETG.

TLDR: Whenever I run the calibrations for a filament, subsequent prints are all messed up - usually stringing and knocking tall and thin prints over. When I delete all filaments on AMS, factory reset the X1 (to newest firmware), run initial calibration, run regular full calibration (and do NOT run filament calibrations), prints are back to normal.

Full story: Here’s my FYI’s first (i.e. things I know it most likely isn’t):

— running X1 Device self-test (all good), and a full Calibrate (of the X1 itself like bed leveling and motor tuning and all that, NOT the filament calibrations), that doesn’t help.

— Tried both the MakerWorld (which supposedly include ALL setup printer/support/brim/etc. settings for your exact model printer all ready to go), AND also tried manually importing a .STL so I know I’m NOT getting any of those settings the designer might have included, which might be messing things up on my end.

— This is NOT a bed adhesion issue!!! NOT an infill setting (there’s no infill + I always use gyroid). NOT heat creep (lid and door vented, max 36ºC enclosure). These cylinders are REALLY attached to the plate well with my settings: all 5x cylinders have inner AND outer brim - even huge 20mm outer. Also tried stock 1.0 ‘brim-object gap’, 0.8, 0.5, down to zero. Raised/lowered bed temp + filament temp; tried same on just 1st layer - sometimes slower as. Tried 0.3mm initial layer instead of 0.2. Bought BRAND new gold double-sided textured PEI plate (and cleaned with dawn when first got it); also tried original ~11-day-old same-model plate too - both sides, including 1x side w/ hairspray as well.

With the above being said, I’m still failing at printing a lot of tall, hollow, cylindrical objects lately (and thin with 2-3x walls, ZERO infill) - like the 5x blades of this. Mainly one is knocked over (maybe because nozzle hits a blob where the z-line forms?), then after extruding filament for the knocked-over one it’ll then string over to the next one (which will slowly be knocked over - as the strings add weight to one side maybe, or a blob forms because of those then the nozzle knocks the part over), then those strings go into the next one and the process continues until most of the print is ruined…

…So with a bad print I think I better run the filament calibrations (Flow Dynamics & Flow Rate) if it’s getting stringing, and/or a little blobby, as I don’t want the nozzle to hit that excess and cause one of the cylinders to fall again. I then run the calibrations from BambuStudio… usually fails at the auto calibration (especially on lighter colored/semi-translucent materials), so I run manual calibrations for both… Prints fail even WORSE after that calibration! (like sooner, and/or more catastrophic).

ONLY thing which seems to work is deleting all filaments + factory reset of the X1 Carbon. Also for good measure I deleted (full delete, all settings files left behind sometimes too) BambuStudio (and OrcaSlicer) as well, and reinstall.

Been through THREE cycles of this, which is why I think it’s the custom filament calibrations messing this up… as it prints ok with all stock settings - but still have slight issues as explained. Then AFTER calibration = all messed up, unusable. After full reset of everything, again “prints ok with all stock settings - but still have slight issues”… literally 3x cycles of this (with about eight, 4+hour/each prints ruined).

Any ideas to combat this? Just did another full reset, did NOT calibrate filaments, and at 72% and so far successful… meaning I’m now on a 4th reset cycle, where a complete reset seems to be the only way to fix this… It shouldn’t work like this… calibration is supposed to make things better/more-fine-tuned, not mess it up even more…

Also trying increasing Z-Hop from 0.4 to 0.8mm on this last printing… some say this IS the solutions to objects getting knocked over… others SWEAR that z-hop being on by default (at 0.4mm I think) IS what is causing this, and turning it off fixed their error… so don’t know who to believe!