Brand new x1c is having issues loading filament. Seems to be happening at the start of the ams buffer. Filament cant go through then gets sent back and I get an error message. For every 5 times it gets stuck, 1 will go through but will make a POP noise. Took the whole thing off and reinstalled it myself and its still doing it. Any suggestions?
To my knowledge, the most common root cause for this is the PTFE tubes not being flush with either of the connectors of the buffer. Either due to a slight difference from a not quite straight cut or some material being in the way. If the tubes are not flush with the inside of the connectors, the filament will find the gap as it is fed through, blocking feeding.
2 Likes
Well its brand new, nothing can be blocking it. Havent printed a single thing on it. The tube seems really long compared to the p1s I had. Id print something to hold it in place but i uh cant get past the buffer lol
You’d be surprised. New does not mean perfect. Especially, when looking at consumables like PTFE tubes and assembing them under time pressure.
The tubes need to be cut smoothly (!) at 90° and pushed in fully. Even a slight difference from the right angle will be found by the filament. Ask me how I know 
And it is an easy check. Bambu Tools - Bambu Lab Tool Set -Disconnect Tools by K2_Kevin - MakerWorld help with the disconnect as the inside buffer connector is tricky to reach.
As for the helper you printed, did you run the filament calibration and used freshly dried filament? Again, new filament can not be considered dry. More often than not, they arrive saturated nowadays.
2 Likes
I ran the pa test before the start of the print. When you say calibration what do you mean? Flow and pa under the tab? No i thought bambu lab filament didnt need to be adjusted. I ran the little check mark before i hit print. All this autocalibration is new to me. I installed the helper and that was the issue. Filament wasnt dry since i just got the thing.
Indeed I am usually getting good (enough for me) results with the little check mark you mention. I usually run the calibration routines (top right in Studio, many more (manual) options in Orca) for all colors when doing multi-color/material prints though. It only self-calibrates for PA for a single spool when using the checkmark.
To dry the filament, a filament dryer is usually best. There are a few threads here in the forum for recommendations. In the meantime, the drying function of the printer works as well but of course it blocks your printer.
Did this resolve your buffer feeder issues? Excellent 
and Congrats 
(If that is the case and I did not misunderstand)
Yes the ptfe tube seems to be leaning down a little and its getting caught, the helper straightened it out so no issues with feeding now!
I am confused on what youre saying about calibration. This is just the green spool you get with every printer, should i run the calibrations in the tab on the right in studio for this bl green pla? I have a sunlu s2, ill try to print the same piece with some sunlu I have. In this case ill calibrate flow and pa, should i have done that with the green before i printed it the first time even though its bambu filament?
1 Like
Excellent 
Well Done
To be honest, I usually do the same with single-color PLA. Just using the check-box has always worked for me with both silk and basic PLA.
For everything else however, I use the calibration tools as well as before multi-color/material prints. That ensures that all spools used are calibrated. I usually do both calibrations.
Best wishes and Happy Printing,
Eno