Filament tearing/ not adhearing in the middle of print

Hello, I tried posting this on reddit and I was not able to find a solution. I am having these weird tearing errors now on my p1p. I have tried halving printing speed, I purchased a filament dryer, and I’ve tried all the calibration built into bambu slicer. The issue persists between different filament colors and types. I have tried multiple filament presets. Any ideas guys?

Many of us have had weird failures like this after doing a firmware update. The solution for me was to do a factory reset on the printer and then run the full printer calibration. Worth the 10min to try that.

Cool thanks for the tip, I’ll try it and let you know! What’s the easiest way to do a reset?

I have an X1C with the color screen and it’s in the settings menu. Not sure how to do it on the P1 series but Goggle probably knows?

No luck. I’m getting the same tear I’ve been getting on a test cube.

After factory reset , did you do machine calibration ?
If the above does not help what material PLA /PETG/ASA do you use ?

Most likely problem is PA is incorrect for the material , if not the above

From the photos not clear , but similar results can happened from the following :

  • under/over extrusion - flow and/or Pressure Advance¶ - calibration there are a lot of threads in the forum for that so please check . But recommend to use Orca slicer Tower method for PA and set the PA value in the filamet
    Try Orca slicer with manual Pressure advance set in the filament
  • Printing too fast - a bit related to cooling profiles may cause bad adhesion especially around the holes , but incorrect PA/flow has similar issues so not sure
  • cooling(temperature) profile it self, make sure that overhang and bridges cooling is set not left at -1 , for PLA i sue 100% , for PETG 80% , for ASA - varies depending the print but usually i keep it around 60%-70%

I did calibrate before printing. I made sure to have PETG selected on both the prepare and device page. I’ve messed with the pressure advance with the standard Bambu studio, but I did not see any improvement. I actually just downloaded orcaslicer I’ll give that method a shot and see if it’s any better. I just adjusted the belt tension to be safe, after the test print for that finishes I’ll give it a shot. I’ve had this printer for awhile; is there a reason my pressure advance would need to be adjusted if it was working fine with other filaments before?

pressure advance(dynamic flow) is different for each filament type /brand , some times batch
flow is also different , i had ASA 0.955 and the new batch is 0.988 the same color same brand same nozzle and printer

. I assume that you have done factory reset , and machine calibration after that !!!

Any of the following assumes the above!!! FACTORY RESET

Check if you have not changed room temperature drastically from your last saucerful print , also if filament is left outside for lets say >24H then needs to be dried again , gets wet quickly,
if P1P is not completely enclosed , check for any windows any drafts it can make similar problems
Partially clogged nozzle - there are a few methods read some of the other threads
Try reducing the speed all around by changing the max Volumetric speed to around 8-10m3/s
PETG likes speeds well under 100mm/S with max speed of 140mm/S , best max speed on my PETG is 70mm/S but still good result with 100 and 140 is matt but in most cases acceptable

Why i do not use Bambu Studio:
I have not figured a way to enter it directly the pressure advance in Bambu Studio apart from g-code command, Also no easy and good way to do the calibration of PA in Bambu Studio, as a mother fact the flow even uses the same type i find it annoying in BS .

Not happy with the new manual calibration method in Bambu studio. i find it not as good as the Orca Tower one, the PA measured with lines close to the Bed or first layer may be a bit off , and is difficult to see , Also do not appreciate how BS stores the values

There are other reasons for X1C related to Lidar and dynamic Autoflow calibrations which are useless, but not relevant i guess for P1P

In short i gave up on Bambu Studio after stared printing more and asked the local Bambu suppler about some issues with PLA and PETG and they suggested to check out orca slicer and its calibration methods, I still keep BS on the computer just for reference and updating it ,but all my filament settings are shared between the two automatically which is great

Thank you that is a really detailed reply. I did do a factory reset by using the printers little screen. I also did a new calibration afterwards when I re-tensioned the belts. Im printing the PA tower now so hopefully that will get me somewhere. The filament spools did not change, it’s literally the same spools of filament that were printing normally before. It feels like he must be hardware related, but the belt tension is fine and I cleaned the rods with alcohol.

did you figured it out? if you left your filament outside of dry box( box with desiccant/or at least sealed bag with desiccant) for days will get wet enough yo affect the prints
did your filament drier arrived ? , try 12-18h on the highest setting for PETG

I’ve had the dryer for the whole post actually! Upside, I think the tears are gone after some tinkering with orca calibration. Downside, overall printing quality is worse. I need to just do more calibration I think. I have a hard time interpreting what’s the best pressure advance/ flow rate test print I think.

The calibration should be very straight forward and simple takes only a couple of hours

  • set the Print temperature usually around 10-15C above the recommended Print temp for the filament to start with what, down the track you can run Temp tower , For some reason on my Bambu i always get at least 10-20C above the recommended Print temp for the filament
  • run flow test to simplify it set the flow to 1 , and run only Pass 2, if you see that 0 is the best then run Pass 1, almost never needed to do it
  • run Tower PA test - tower method
  • at some point you can run Max Volumetric test - but initially just set it to 12-15mm3/S that is good enough for 99% of the filament brands of PLA,ABS,ASA ,PETG
  • That is around 1-2 hours with the print time , After that you should have a very good print with no tearing, and very food result , may be not perfect for all cases , but very close to the ideal

In another thread some one had print quality issue looked similar. And he ended up replacing the hot end , and then his issue was gone. If you have too many print quality issues and drying, calibrating usual ones not help probably time to check the HW , i have not had HW issues with the Bambu yet so not very familiar , but hot end, connections, belts, assembly , …