I design with a lot of fillets on the bottom (plate side). Currently, I’m designing a piece with a 3.5mm fillet, and am having major issues due to the slicer. Essentially, the 2nd layer is placed too far out from the 1st layer due to geometry/size of the fillet and is recognized as a bridge instead of an overhang (even with 0.00 mm elephants foot compensation):
This is problematic because it doesn’t have anything to bond to, and since it is a bridge, the print speed is controlled by the bridge speed setting and not the overhang speed setting. The only way to get layer 2 to print slower is to reduce the bridge print speed, but this setting also applies to the first layer above any infill. As a result, overall print time can be drastically increased by adjusting the bridge print speed. It prints better, but still has trouble with bonding.
Pre-Bambu, I used Cura which has has a feature tied to the adaptive layers that basically recognized this and adjusted the layer topography to eliminate the bridge (i.e., moved the bottom layer out).
Yes, it doesn’t end up perfectly filleted, but it doesn’t have any bonding issues. I messed with Studio’s adaptive layers but it doesn’t appear to do anything like that. At this point, unless anyone has any suggestions, I guess I’m going to have to start using chamfers since the slicer doesn’t appear to play nice. A negative elephants foot compensation would eliminate this as well, but you can’t enter a value less than 0.
I have never used adaptive layers before, so I dont know how much help I am here… I just did a little playing around after seeing your post, and I found that the second layer has less over hang if you make your first layer height shorter.
It almost seems like it has opposite layer height fade depending on your first layer height. so smaller first layer it will gradually increase layer height. higher first layer it wont increase the same? I have no idea how it works lol, but that’s what I tried…
I set these settings first, and then I clicked the adaptive and smooth button after I set it:
You might have to go back to the adaptive layer panel and click those buttons after you set your first layer height for it to adjust, but I really dont know how it works.
Edit:
Yeah, looks like you need to click those buttons after you make changes to layer heights (maybe other settings too):
Great suggestion. I didn’t think of this, but think it should work. I’m not sure how the slicer determines the x-y coordinates of the layer (I assume it uses the coordinates at mid-height), but it makes sense because of the geometry of a fillet radius.
I haven’t had much luck with the fillets over 2.5mm in diameter. I can post some pictures when I get home. I did a ton of tests with different settings, and I think it is a filament issue with the overture. I am going to try polyterra and bambu tonight and also drying the filament when my dryer comes. One odd thing I found though is that the filament settings has a minimum print speed (usually 20 mm/s) which seems to override the standard overhang print speed settings (10mm/s).
Still having a lot of trouble. For whatever reason, it looks like something goofy is going on with the way the slicer is calculating the overhang %'s and associated print speeds.
This is with an initial 0.12mm layer and adaptive down to 0.08mm to lessen the overhangs. This uses a 10 mm/s overhang print speed for all overhang %'s, a 50 mm/s print speed for the outer walls (resulted in a 33% print time increase), and a 10 mm/s minimum print speed (this defaults to 20 mm/s and overrrides the 10 mm/s overhang speeds).
Once it hits the increased speed, the fillet turns to junk. The layer lines elsewhere look bad too. At this point, I get better quality on my ender and if I have to slow this thing way down, what’s the advantage?
If I use the default outer wall print speed, I get this:
It would appear the outer wall speed is used when the overhang is between 0% and 10%, but I don’t see how it is under 10%. This is how the overhang print speeds are set:
I also have increased cooling:
I am going to try to print the outer walls at 10 mm/s to see if that makes any difference. Sadly it results in the same print time as my ender which was $200 versus $1500.
Sorry to hear you are having so much trouble with yours. I actually just boxed mine up for return because of a faulty linear bearing and the AMS keeps flashing red led’s… I wish I asked you to send me the file so I could try printing it before I boxed it up. Maybe see if there is someone out there who can try printing the same file as you to see what kind of results they have?
