Filling problem

Bambu Lab A Series Troubleshooting
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Hello,
My A1 printer has recently been having problems with the infill. I usually use grid infill (photo 2), and suddenly the infill starts to “crack.” I tried using a straight line (photo 1), and it’s even worse.

These are parts I print regularly, and the problem suddenly occurred.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem is?

Thanks in advance.

2

Hmm, maybe try to print using an infill that does not cross paths, just like the ones you tried and used. I would suggest trying out honeycomb infill, the normal one not the 3D honeycomb. It may solve the problem for now so you can print. :wink:

3

Maybe try to calibrate printer also, with everything, vibration compensation, motor cancellation, and bed leveling.

4

I bet it is an infill combination at inadequate temperature (low)
also that is wood ? 0.6 nozzle ?

6

yes it’s wood from bambulab and 0.4 nozzle. i use the setting from bambustudio for temperature. What I don’t understand is that the problem occurred after about fifty pieces and I didn’t change the filament. the brackets are also very hard to remove compared to before

7

I have already try, but i have always my problem

8

thank’s i try after!! the brackets are also very hard to remove compared to before

9

Walls seem normal so it’s a clog that doesn’t clog enough to reduce the flow needed to print the slower lines but the more needy infill ?

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I also have a problem with the wall; this happens once the supports are finished, and the supports are much harder to remove compared to before. you think i need to change nozzle?

12

i think i would flush it with white petg and cold pulls until it comes out clean

13

i don’t have petg, i can try with white PLA?

14

point of using petg is stronger and don’t lose the grip (on the crust) when you pull it out but if you do it with pla give us feedback… because I skipped that experiment.

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Same problem, nothing change

16

My first trials with wood filament were quite the lesson in filament moisture.
The parts came steaming off the build plate :joy: Supports were also unremoveable. So if you haven’t dried them yourself or the rolls have been in the open for more rhan a couple of days, definitely dry them again.

As for the specific infill printing problem, are speeds and line widths the same as inner wall settings? And is “combine infill” disabled? It does not work properly in Studio.

Oh, and also use compatible materials during a cold pull. PLA and PETG are famous for not bonding well. Better use PLA for a PLA Wood cold pull.

:four_leaf_clover: & :crossed_fingers:

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Hello, i don’t have humidity problem, you can see my speed setting with the screenshot. Ans combine infiil are disable

18

Thanks for that. If you rule out humidity, you only have settings to play with.

  • First, I’d look at the filament settings, lower max flow by 10% (to provide some margin of error) and
  • enable “wipe on retract”.
  • Next, I’d look at the “Quality” tab and change all line widths after the 1st layer to the outer wall line width.
  • In that same tab, is “scarf seam” enabled? That can help in some scenarios as well.
  • In the “Speed” tab, we can see pretty high speeds. Since major (flow?) errors occur even on the outer wall, we prabably want to go below that. 150mm/s for all printing speeds could be worth a try, 100mm/s would be a safer approach as this would be equivalent to outer walls in silent mode.

:four_leaf_clover: & :crossed_fingers:

PS: How do you know the filament is dry? In my experience, PLA Wood is a sponge. And with the AMS Lite using open rolls all it takes is a few days or even a single thunderstorm rolling through…

19

I’m sorry but can you show me with screenshot where i make change please?

I’m sure my filament is dry, because i print in a hot little room and it’s a new filament, i print since 1 month pla woods and i have this problem since few days

20

Sure thing:
Filament settings:

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Quality settings: Line widths:
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Scarf seam:
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But before you change anything, there’s something else:

New filament must always be considered to be wet. Not because anything that was done wrong. Just because the bags only slow down moisture ingress. They do not stop it. During their months(s) long trip over the open waters of the seven seas…
Here’s an example of a company (Qidi) using that fact to advertise its packaging.

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And here’s my own take on the matter:
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As for the roll having printed well previously… were those parts of similar size and complexitiy? And how do you define a “good” print? Could they not have been better?
My own first experiences with isanmate woodfill (pre-Bambu PLA Wood) were quite the eye opener. They literally sweated after printing, were quite a bit hotter than usual when removing from the plate and supports were fused to the part despite a generous z-top-distance.
Not surprising though as wood is “designed” to pick-up and transport water…
Due to this, I always dry my woodfill when opening a bag these days.

So please, please give drying a go. 65°C for 12h as recommended by Bambu. Storage below 20% humidity (I daresay your room is not as hot as 55-65°C, with humidity below 20%? Even when a squall is coming through? :wink: ).

If you do not have a dryer (yet), set your printers build plate to 65°C, put the roll on the bed, cover with a cardboard (filament) box, turn over the roll after the first 6h, let drying complete and see what that get’s you.

:crossed_fingers: & :four_leaf_clover:

PS: Also check the Bambu PLA wood shop page. Bambu rather strongly recommends to dry all PLA Wood before printing just below the datasheets.

21

ok, i try to fry in first! I can dry with oven?

22

Well, temperature control is tricky in an oven. I have done it myself with the help of a meat thermometer for better temp control.
But I would not advise on doing so.
There are quite a few pic’s of accidentally melted spools here in the forum. I myself did manage to fuse filament strands together on a single spool (of a 12 spool load though).
There’s also the severe risk of running into trouble with the wife, housemates, etc…

Using the printers heat bed is much simpler even though it does mean that the printer is blocked for that time.
In the medium term, even a cheap drier is well worth it. I personally use an outdated Ensinia and a Sunlu S2. Quite happy with the S2 actually.

:crossed_fingers: & :four_leaf_clover: