There is also the Chimera mod if you want to adjust the first version of the OEM hotend to the correct height. Made by the guy that created the AMS Hydra mod.
https://www.printables.com/model/480230-chimera-bambu-lab-x1c-p1p-aftermarket-hotend-for-v
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Thanks for that. Looks useful.
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Just did the chimera mod above to get my Bondtech cht nozzle installed without increasing the total hot end length.
All in all pretty straightforward, a few hick ups though - I needed to file the metal pin that retains the nozzle heatbreak a little as it was almost touching the nozzle heating block. That would have resulted in heat transfer to the heat sink. I just used some nail files and it worked great.
Other than that I noticed that my Pa value is slightly higher compared to the aliexpress hardened cht nozzle I was using before. No bother, I just recalibrated the filaments.
Other than that print quality is excellent as expected and the flow rate is consistent between this and the aliexpress one.
The only reason for changing to the genuine, besides supporting the manufacturer, is that the copper slug in the hardened Ali nozzle started deteriorating after a good dozen rolls of Polyterra PLA. It was leaving copper color marks on my white prints. When I removed the nozzle I could see the copper slug starting to wear out.
The genuine Bondtech one uses hardened steel for that area and also uses copper for the external housing of the nozzle which is better at least in theory for heat transfer. So I am expecting it to last much much longer.
Does anyone else get āThe Nozzle temp is abnormal, the heater is over temperatureā (HMS_0300_0200_0001_0003) after the latest firmware update?
I havenāt used my cht hotends for a month. When I swapped them in again now it aborts heating with that error. Tested with 2 separate 3rd party hotends & new silicon socks, checked connectors. 
Swapped back to bambulab hotend and it worked perfect againā¦
I quote this sentnece of you because I have seen that the fan hotend connector may look right but can be faulty, actually mine is loose and I can remove it (the plastic connector) from the board while the two pin stay in place :), so the contact may sometime not work as expected.
I use the latest firmware and Bambustudio and does not have problem (yet) with clone + CHT 0.6
EDIT: maybe you can try to heat the nozzle without attaching it to the block (just connecting the three connectors) without the two screws so that you may be able to notice the difference between clone & original
EDIT2: or a faulty/broken thermistor on the clone maybe ?
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Righto, thanks for the hint. Iāll doublecheck my connectors. Weird thing is my old cht nozzle (bought from 3dplady) which I hadnāt modified since last time was the first one to complain. Then the 2nd from hs3dprinter did the same. I better take them apart and recheck but good to know that the firmware isnāt the problem. Thanks 
Seems like the fan connector was the primary problem, but now the fan cools too much (fast heating up to 170C the slowly crawls to 202 until it errors out).
Time to strip it to pieces and clean it out, sigh
Edit: Now it works, seems like adding a liberal amount of cooling paste on the heatbreak insert was a bad idea (cooled it too much). Some isopropyl alcohol cleanup later: 250C in an instant.
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I tried this is still get errors. Using bambu ASA and itās trying to print at 270. Replaced all the wires, but only the stock hotend seems to be working now. Iāll give it a shot once my current print finishes
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Just in case, wich kind of clone nozzle are you using ? (some have better heatbreak than other)
Make sure you have a decent amount of heat paste on the thermistor. If it is working in a inconsistent layer of paste, it could give some odd readings. I have a syringe style applicator now, and they really helped me get a consistent amount of paste in the thermistor hole.
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The new tz2 with the brace to keep it from spinning. High Temperature Upgraded Lad Hotend with Plated Copper Heater Block Titanium Heatbreak, Extra Hardened Steel Nozzle Compatible with BB X1 Carbon X1-C P1P 3D Printer (Hotend Set 2) https://a.co/d/6pTXuN2 .
Had several 13-14 hr prints and it just stopped working. Thought it was because I put in a .8m cht, but very well may be a paste issue. I ordered some of the new wires that go with the heater and once they get here I will swap them. It still gets up to temp but after a while itās throws the abnormal temp error
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So what proof is there, thereās not a reduction of strength purely because youāre splitting up the plastic at the end of the nozzle, and then forcing it back together while spitting it out on the bed/layer, versus, the single line of plastic?
So youāve got 3 or 4 lines, vs 1 line, having to bond and cool.
I think it would be like comparing the strength of a .4 nozzle against the strength of a .6 nozzle. We know how that turns out.
Ok I don tuse this one, I use the verion wich have not the reinfocrced heatbreak, this reinforcment may have good benefit for strenght but make the heatbreak (the junction between heated part and cooled part of the nozzle block) a lot worst I guess, the heat have a lot more surface to go up.Anyway I have not tested this one yet.
?? Hello ChatGTP
Just doesnāt make sense for it to be working one minute than not the next. Iāll redo the thermal grease once my parts get here and she what happens
No, Chat GPT copies me
Iām serious though, simple logic.
Ha ok sorry this was so much offtopic that it was looking like a bot answer 
Anyway, the filament is not cutted as you seem to think (actually the nozzle is not a cutter and would not be able to do that) it is already molten a lot before beiing separates in three streams to enable even faster final heating to reach its final temperature before going out of the nozzle and then enable a higher flowrate.
When it go out of the nozzle, it drop very very fast in temperature making it apperaing as a ālineā as you said (even faster when a parts cooling fan is activated), but inside the nozzle it is completly molten.
If you need to be conviced just extrude some filament in the air with such nozzle and see if you can see any separation even tiny in the outputed filament.
EDIT: another high flow nozzle came out recently https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgIlSpb-A2Y
But the idea is exacly the same : maximizing the heat transfer from the nozzle to the plastic inside the nozzle (by increasing the surface of contact between metal of the nozzle and plastic inside)
This kind of nozzle design below should works very well but it would be probably insane to machining it
So I figured out my problem. I order the bondtech bimetal kit. It was recommend to use some paste when changing nozzles to help with heat transfer. I was prepping to a 8mm nozzle and u put the paste on. Thatās when I got the original error.
After that I did a full tear down and used the āPasteā on the ceramic heater, that put the hot end back together. My problem was I was using thermal āPasteā and not thermal āGreaseā on the hot end. After swapping to grease im rocking and rolling.
Thermal grease and thermal paste are the same thing. So is thermal compound, thermal goop, thermal gunk, heat paste, that gooey stuff you put between your CPU and heat sink, hot ass gloop-a-doop for your CPU-pa-doop. The terms are used interchangeably, but the brands and types vary in composition and effectiveness.
Isnāt the nozzle lower than the heater though?
And I know you probably wouldnāt see the separation with eyes vs microscope or such, but still, seems like youāre cutting it apart then rebuilding. Could be negligible.
Iām actually very happy with the stock configuation. I was afraid it would be inferior to volcano hotends but I was pleasantly surprised!
Actually the filament start to melt way before it enter into the nozzle and even before the heat block (the block into wich you screw the nozzle), and thatās the role of the heatbreaker (not always understood well by some people) to ensure that the filament not start to melt even more before. That is why you can see a little fan onto a small radiator dissipator wich is just upper of the heating block wich contain the heater and the nozzle.
Anyway, dont care, nothing really complexe in that process, I am sure you will learn all the details very fast. Specially if you keep the mood of asking every little piece of thing you have trouble to understand.
Edit: you can see a hotend as two parts with a junction :
- a heater block
- a cooling block
- a heatbreak junction
The colling block is above the heater block
Those two blocks are usually linked by a very small surface ( the heat break junction) to let a minimum path for the heat to go up.