It was kinda trick question 
The plastic is cooling when it gets to, and goes through the nozzle, so the argument itâs still molten isnât entirely correct.
Thatâs why I say I would love to see a study about the stock vs CHT STRENGTH tests. I bet stock is stronger inherently.
Well sorry, what you say makes no sense to me maybe someone else will be kind enough to answer you, and give you more information, cause I am not sure if you need explanation or if you are trolling
1 Like
I think he is worried about the splitting up of the filament in 3 channels. As if that would make the resulting output be not properly mixed/weaker. I think it is the other way around, that you get a stronger result since all 3 strands are melted more effectively in the channels, then finally squeezed together in the nozzle. The only way I see it being weaker would be if there was no heating at all, and the output was just forcefully ejected as filament strands. But Iâll stop speculating now.
Youâre about correct mol.olsson.
I guess I could say, DzzD, do you have the capabilities to do a couple strength tests between the CHT and the stock bambu hotends?
This is what I see in my brain box. This happens because of polymer cooling properties, and CNC Kitchenâs indepth video supports this.
Anyone who has printed parts with .4 nozzles and then broke it, then did the same thing with a 1.0 nozzle, knows the 1.0 walls/ceilings/bonding is stronger than the .4
Remember, smooshing together is just that, youâre reassembling the polymer again at the bottom, with less heat than above.
Again, this may all be semantics and weâre talking a 10% difference in speed, but Iâm curious what the strength difference is, because there will be one. The physics of the application of the polymer are different, period.
For the physics to be almost identical, it may still have a sliver of difference, would be for filament to be split into 3 ABOVE the hotend, and then 3 strands go through the heater at once, then extruder through normal nozzle.
Well, actually this is what happen⌠the nozzle is not sinificantly cooler than the part of the nozzle which is at the same height of the heater (this is due to the very high termal conductivity of metal) not to mention that when the three streams get out they have reached their maximum temperature wich would be in an ideal world the temperature you have set to print.
This assumption is true as long as you are not trying to print with a too much high flow rate for your nozzle and hotend, in wich case you get underextrusion, cooler plastic and very poor in layers adhesion.
But you are right, widther lines (0.4 vs 0.6 vs ++) are always stronger because they are made of a single piece of plastic homogeneously mixed, but this is the same thing at the output of a CHT nozzle, plastic is remelted enoughly hot to be homogeneously merged without any inner/internal stress or separation.
Talking about Stephan of âCNC kitchenâ, you may have seen when he print sometime little poops of plastic to compare their weight to compare different systems flowrate, those are also like a single homogeneous block/ like injected plactic and it happen outside the nozzle, so dont worry about what is happening inside of the nozzle, it is still pretty hot.
Here is a g-code to produce a maximum extrusion on a single location :
M109 S225
M106 P1 S0
M106 P2 S0
G28
G1 Z5
G1 E100 F1200
It is written as it (but it shoud not hurt anything), I did not make any computation to see if thoses values are consistent but I have choosen a high value for E, this line will (try) to extrude/melt 100mm in 5 seconds (600mm/min) 5mm above the bed without fan, it shoud give you an homogeneous and solid plastic block even with plastic melted outside the nozzle.
2 Likes
Ya I donât imagine thereâs much of a visible difference.
I think the one company with the hotend heater is probably the next evolution weâll have to do for the bambu. I love the speed, so the cht would be uber, but the fragility of things I canât believe, but I guess it makes sense. If you print at 50,000 mph and cool in .00001 second, you better lay that next line before that time is up otherwise itâs going to have a hard time bonding! 
Also, donât forget you can put a diamonback in that thing with a copper CHT insert and it will be glorious.
Hello,
What do you think of the new V2 version? It will arrive in a few days.
Has anyone test it?
Its good
Used it for some time now⌠P1S
1 Like
Just curious why change the hot ends?
Have a look: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20K4d8jLTq8
1 Like
ha! Ho that the one(clone) I use for a while now, it work perfectly
1 Like
Print faster & better (filament temperature is more homogeneous)
1 Like
Exactly which brush mod are you referring to?
Anything which is âflawlessâ is worth trying!
Has anyone used the V3?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EItc8b7
1 Like
The printer can easily reach 500° â they mean 500°Fahrenheit (!) This correspondens to 260°C. So it is not so much. 
1 Like
New Bambu X1 Carbon owner here. Are those nozzles significantly cheaper than those from Bambu, or is there difficulty getting parts quickly from Bambu?
Ali: CHT nozzle, separate nozzle and heatblock, cheaper
Bambu: normal nozzle, nozzle and heatblock as one part
I had never a problem with availability of Bambu nozzle.
1 Like