So I’ve got almost 300 hours on my H2D as of right now and have always had perfect first layers. I printed a mechanical dice tower and it was flawless. I tried to print another with the same filament and same sliced file - literally nothing changed. Had 3 failures where the base had bad adhesion and lifted. I switched to the Bambu super tack plate and re-sliced for the plate and it worked, mostly. The bottom still warped but it stuck better than it did to the PEI plate. I just now tried to print a different model and am still encountering adhesion issues. Is there some way to put in an offset for the first layer height?
I always think the build plate needs cleaning before o hunt down other causes.
Because, most of the time that is the cause.
4 Likes
Are you able to post a picture of the plate and print? The smooth PEI plate is very picky when it comes to finger prints and smudges.
Edit: Ah, Malc beat me to it 
3 Likes
As mentioned before (but not last ), 99% of adhesion issues can be resolved with water, diswashing liquid, a stiff, clean brush and vigorous repetition (3 times).
A further 0.5% can be resolved by being sure that there’s nothing between the build plate and the heat bed. Getting better though. On the X1/P1, it is easy to place the plate on rather than in beween the rear guidance, throwing off bed levelling and killing heat transfer.
I include residue on the nozzle throwing off bed levelling in this (can happen in particular with (moist) PETG).
Of the remaining 0.5%, the majority are A1 series print head screws needing tightening and a tiny fraction of cases neccessitating bed tramming, a check of heat bed straightness or temp and temp distribution.
I have yet to see a case where z-offset is actually a thing on a Bambu. The way to check nowadays is not to fiddle with z-offset, but to increase 1st layer line width to enforce the squish.
After having cleaned the plate thoroughly and (specific plate type & filament dependant) chosen the right glue (or not)!
& 
Addendum: Warping is another/further problem:
- Dry the filament (especially new filament!),
- keep the chamber warm (depending on filament of course, PLA likes 30-35°C) while avoiding heat creep
- further steps (mouse ears, slowing, lower layer height) possible depending on filament, plate, drying & cleaning success
1 Like
I’ve cleaned it with dish soap and warm water and tried the opposite side.
I’ve washed it with warm water and dawn with a sponge several times to be sure it was clean. Filament was dry, I dried it in the AMS to be sure. I used the identical filament previously with flawless results.
The only thing that’s different between this time and the first time is for the second one I used the beta version of BS as I re-sliced for some other parts in silk filaments for the second one, but the main part of the tower was the same filament.
Can you print a single layer of filament across the entire build print?
- Create a new project.
- Right click the build plate
- Add a cube primitive
- Select it
- Using the resize tool from the toolbar
- Turn off the Uniform scale feature
- Set the width and depth to that of your build plate maximum and a 0.2mm height
- Make sure the line height is 0.2mm
If you have any obvious adhesion problems they will show up visually.
Share the resulting photo.
1 Like
The AMS2 dries filament but the original AMS does not for all practical purposes. It takes heat to get the water to let go. In the AMS (one), there is also desiccant but if that has been left for any length of time, odds are good your AMS can even make things worse by acting as a water reservoir to moisturize your filament. Is it a 1 or 2?
1 Like
I’ll do that this weekend
1 Like
I have two AMS 2’s so they’ll dry properly.
1 Like
1 1It printed fine but the back left corner was clearly slightly too far away as the line adhesion is poor and the infill lines just pop apart. The rest of the print the line adhesion is great.
The plate seems fine based on that result.
Do you have any photos of the failed prints, with profile views and ones of the obvious failure points.
Definitely not fine on the back left part where the infill didn’t fuse to itself. The rest of the sheet is solid and can’t be pulled apart. That back section can easily be separated.
Here’s two of the previous failed prints with their edges lifting these were both in that same back left area of the bed.
Can I double check. Have you tried a different spool of filament and maybe a different type.
1 x PETG for example?
1 x PLA?
My H2S never held down any prints prints from day one. Washed the bed, never touch it with bare hands, tried everything. Glue stick has solved it for me. Re-apply about every 15 prints and have never lost a print since. Maybe just try plan B and go for a glue stick. I know its not ideal but perfect for releasing TPU also. If all else fails…
Climate is often the factor for this.
300 hours of working to nothing sticking is less likely.
Unless, is the printer in a well ventilated room and is your location going through a heat wave?
What is the ambient temperature in the room near the printer?
Glue is only ever a fall back for those unlucky enough to live somewhere the climate requires it.
I have never and will never use it. The U.K. with a 50-70% humidity where my printers are depending on the weather and time of year. I have never needed to dry my filament either, for any reading at any time.
Yes, you can manually adjust your first-layer height by applying a Z-offset modifier in Bambu Studio or directly on your machine’s interface.Modifying the Z-offset alters the nozzle-to-bed clearance, allowing you to increase the compression (or “squish”) of your initial layer to force better mechanical adhesion. However, because your first layers were flawless for 300 hours on identical files, a sudden loss of adhesion typically points to an underlying mechanical calibration shift or surface energy degradation rather than a software issue.
I don’t think it’s that, the temps here have been pretty cool lately. We did have a few hot days but I was printing other stuff those days without any issues. It’s cooler today, about 65F outside but my office is warmer. Printing a large thing now and the filament is sticking great in the problem area. I did wash the build plate again before this print though and made sure to rinse it thoroughly. Still having this issue.
