Coming here to see if someone experienced something similar in the past:
Suddenly my 1st layer started printing very bad (looks like under extrusion, but checked everything and it’s more like the hotend having irregular height). This happens in first layers and top surfaces, which is causing me not being able to print anything with lettering side down.
So far I:
Replaced nozzle and gears of the extruder (upgraded to hardened, but worth to mention that went back to try the normal one with same results)
Replaced belts in all axis (the long way, to clean it and check for any other potential issues)
Replaced PTFE tube that goes into extruder
Checked with many different filament brands
Changed Z offset from 0 to -0.11, -0.04 is the sweet spot, as normal
Tried different bed plates (Smooth, Textured Crio and the Default Textured one), also washed them to discard debris issue.
Cleanes and applied lubricant in the 3 Z axis
Checked adjustment with bed tramming
Changed many configuration and used different slicers to discard user input ( in fact I have a big order of custom keychains so I also did the tests with the same file that printed perfectly in the past)
Cleaned carbon rods (they were perfectly clean anyways)
Did a factory reset (just to try) and recalibrated
Checked Z axis rods for potential damage, they are fine
Tried calibrations of flow and PA, they look really bad, and the best spot is the ones I currently have (have all my filaments tuned with the perfect profile for them)
Had many machines that serviced myself but I’m at a loss with this case.Had to buy a A1M in order to be able to meet deadline, but would love to not have to trash the P1S, it’s only at 1400 hours.
Any input on this, or something to check will be greatly appreciated, so far my ticket is not being responded anymore, so can’t go that way.
Leveling/z problems on Bambu are frustrating for sure.
3 things
what plate do you tell the slicer you are using? If you choose textured, it drops z by 0.04 (check machine startup gcode if you want to confirm). This can be a “hack” to get better squish on any plate. Adjust temps, and lie to the slicer
check for anything that can foul the auto level. Scrap under the build plate. Loosely screwed in nozzle. Clean your z screws near where “0” would be to within an inch of their lives. Etc
if you give up and want to cheat, orcaslicer will let you assign a z offset in slicer. It’s not as robust as doing it on the pad of a device like live z adjust on enders, but if you consistently , every time, autocalibrate to “too high” maybe just slap a “ok. And then -0.05”
Yep, already did all of this, I use mainly orca but now using BS for the tests, already worked around the Z offset.
All the axis are clean, same the rods, so nothing that one would think is preventing a good bed mesh.
Also there is an easier way to “trick” the printer, just put “Cool Plate” in the starting G code and that will force to use the offset as long as you select cool plate in the slicer
Didn’t try this, as it seems to be working fine (reading the temps as normal), but I get it, usually this issuies are also related to a hotend fan not working (and the heatsink being too hot) or the heater malfunctioning.
Hey! Not really, changed a lot of mechanical parts of the printer just to discard wear, nothing worked, ultimately had to go back to the standard Bambu plates and playing with the z height in the g code until I nailed it, tbh this has no explanation other than maybe the cryo plates wearing down the surface.
As of now I only use the cryo ones when I don’t need to print a design in the bottom layer.
Ps: I even bought a new A1 mini because I needed to print for a customer a lot of keychains, same happens with the Cryo in the A1 mini, so it’s the plates
