Hi, I was printing a large number of tokens and my printer started to spoil the first layer. I went through the advice on the forum, but nothing helped. Can you think of anything that would eliminate this phenomenon? Thanks 
Printer - Bambulab P1S, Filament: Bambulab Basic, Filament profile - default Bambulab
This looks like severe overextrusion. Did you dry and calibrate the filament? Not only flow dynamics but also flow?
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I didn’t dry the filament, it was new, freshly unpacked. I only calibrated the first package. If you have an order of x hundred pieces, it would be impossible in terms of time…
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A quick note: Newly packaged doesn’t necessarily mean dry. Although PLA isn’t as prone to this issue, newly unpacked material can be moist.
You never know what happens at the factory or during packaging. Even the tiniest tears can occur in the packaging. It’s not even certain that it comes from the same factory even if it arrives as a single shipment.
Especially with the P1S, you can also dry filament using the printer itself. Just scroll down to: 2.2 Notes for Drying on P1S
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What did you feel a need to calibrate the filament to ? default settings are usually pretty well calibrated and dry enough to print out the box
Using a A1`s and H2s ive never had to calibrate / dry bambubasic
Not every supplier, not every warehouse, etc., handles the filament with care. On top of that even different locations: Maybe OP lives in a swamp - or in the desert - who knows? What works for you doesn’t necessarily work for others on a global scale.
There are countries where you can’t leave PLA out for even two days without it getting moist immediately.
On top of that, it’s likely - though we don’t know for sure - that Bambu PLA Basic is manufactured by different factories. A different color? A different production date? A bad batch? And suddenly, things can look completely different.
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I must get all my different brands from the same caring factory.
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How does this information help the thread author? Could you please explain that in detail? Thanks. 
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Since you have similar results across different brands, it may have more to do with your local ambient humidity or maybe some other factor.
I also have yet to need to calibrate that I can tell and get beautiful prints. Thing is I also have a good drying technique but the point is pretty much everyone has their own experience. Either from something they may not realize is affecting their results or something they do intentionally. A big thing we don’t have from your report is what your prints look like. I’m not saying it’s you too, but I’ve seen photos of prints people think are free from water issues that I would just throw away because they do show water issues and the person printing just doesn’t realize it’s bad.
Sharky is right, though. Just stating you don’t have to calibrate or dry leaves out important information. It would help to know your ambient conditions and methods with more detail or else your report is essentially worthless. The reason is many don’t get the same results as you. The question is why. Only providing more information can help answer that.
So temperature and humidity where you print and where you store filament. How you store filament. And have you tested the equilibrium humidity of your filament immediately before or after printing? All you need to do is dunk the spool into a ziplock bag with a hygrometer and read the humidity when it stops changing (about 30 minutes). If not at room temperature, the temperature the hygrometer reports is also important.
Those are the kinds of details that can help sort things out. Since we all have somewhat different setups and experiences, providing more information which actually has meaning for others helps way more than just stating you don’t have problems.
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In my experience, new filament needs a drying cycle. Not really because of my ambient conditions (although I do live in a Marshland), but because the 6+ weeks the filament has spent at sea, going through the tropics, before it comes to my door.
Qidi actually uses their (not fully moisture protection) bags in their advertising.
Of course, it could be something else.
But we’d really need to know at least the filament type and brand as well as flow and flow dynamics parameters and settings (retract? Wipe on retract?).
And the first advise would certainly be to dry and calibrate as there’s no point in troubleshooting a filament that is likely moist and not calibrated.
This is a lead time and filament storage issue that you need to factor in.
You’ll loose much more time “troubleshooting” than to simply having a routine of drying, calibrating (since you have a P1 rather than an A, X or P2 series) and a dry storage.
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And there is another reason to dry, particularly to a specific humidity. Many tune their filaments all sorts of ways to get the best printing. Thing is, moisture content is known to change how filaments behave so how good is all that tuning if people aren’t at least minimizing variations that they can from spool to spool?
We know that new filament humidity isn’t really controlled and spools can arrive with a range of moisture content which changes how filaments behave. Not drying, and not drying filament uniformly spool to spool, undermines calibrations. I don’t know by how much but looking at the variations across tuning model parameters and knowing how water can have outsized effects on prints, it would seem like the effects could be significant. It just seems to me that drying in a controlled way to a specific filament condition (e.g. humidity during a dry), even for those who don’t “need” to dry, might produce the most uniform results and allow tuning print parameters to have maximum benefit.
Added - Drying all spools for a fixed number of hours would approximate drying all spools to a certain humidity but isn’t the same thing. If procedures and filament allow a range of moisture contents, it’s going to have a range of effects.
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It’s definitely not humidity. I have two printers next to each other - P1S and P2S. I took the filament from P1 and put it in P2. I printed the same model. It’s smooth, without those ugly artifacts. So we can rule out the possibility (filament humidity). Can you think of anything else?
You said you’ve already calibrated your filament? “Flow Dynamic” and “Flow Rate”? Those two different tests in Bambu Studio.
I’m having my doubts right now - why? Because if you had done that, you would have noticed the flaw during calibration, and there would be no reason to print anything. I’m not accusing you of anything. I’m just asking so that I can understand. Why are you printing keychains (or whatever) now when the problem should have been obvious during calibration?
Are you skipping a few steps here and not telling us about them? Like I said, I’m not accusing you of anything - we all want to help you! But somehow, a piece of the puzzle doesn’t quite fit here.
What happens if you calibrate the filament now? Please try that and take a photo. It won’t take more than 15 minutes, and it will determine how we should proceed from here. If the calibration isn’t right / fails, the problem lies somewhere else entirely.
I admit, I probably trusted the Bambulab filament too much that I calibrated it a long time ago and with a different color. I haven’t calibrated this orange one yet. I’m going to do it. I’ll post the result in a moment.
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Thanks for taking the time: That’s definitely a perfect result. With that, you can now completely rule out hardware failure and filament issues.