Hi, thanks alot for your help. Bambu support just closed the ticket in the meantime, but after reopening they also recommended manual bed tramming.
I’ve done it on the last weekend and what should i say, it just prints now like a charm! Even with BambuSlicer (so no z-offset), with the 0.2, 0.4 and 0.6mm nozzles, on the textured and on the smooth build plate. No scratching issues anymore
Should’ve done it when it was first suggested i this thread, but as Bambu support didn’t gave any suggestions in this direction i wasn’t shure if it would be worth the hassle.
It definitely was and it’s not that much trouble as i initially thought
For the record, this solution worked for me, works perfectly now, but the wording here is a little strange.
They mean the three screws found BEHIND the hot-end.
For more detail, check the Bambu wiki page for “A1 Series Fist Layer Print Issues- First Layer Too Low, Hotend Moving” and check the section on “Check the Hoten and Heater” in order to get a detailed guide on how to fix the screns.
I started having issues with the first layer too low. Tried everything that I could find in the forums, including swapping the nozzle, tightening the screws on the heater assemble, re-tramming, etc… I did not try the aluminum foild under the build plate trick. I finally found that changing the Z offset (only in Orca) for the printer profile from 0 to +.175, allowed for an acceptable first layer. This reminded me of setting the Z offset on my Ender 3. I opened a case with what I did and the workaround that was allowing me to print. They sent me a new heater assembly. After installing and running a full calibration, the issue was resolved. I am now back to perfect first layers.
The thing that I noticed was that the clamps for the hot end seems stiffer on the new one.
Only solution I’ve found as well after trying everything else you mentioned. I’ve had this issue for at least 6 months. It’s ridiculous this is still going on and we have to use a different program as a workaround!
I finally found that changing the Z offset (only in Orca) for the printer profile from 0 to +.175, allowed for an acceptable first layer. This reminded me of setting the Z offset on my Ender 3. I opened a case with what I did and the workaround that was allowing me to print. They sent me a new heater assembly. After installing and running a full calibration, the issue was resolved. I am now back to perfect first layers.