I think the top is too tight too. The PTFE tubes already rub against the glass top. Needs another couple mm or something. Might be a good project to design a top lifter than can still seal the interior enough to print things that need chamber heat.
There are riser models for every enclosed BL printer on Maker World.
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Similar issue here. I had a brand new P2s and decided to get another printer, the x2d. I got the x2d yesterday and set it up today. I’ve been fighting the ams all fuggin day. At first when loading into the main (left) nozzle I noticed the filament was struggling at the last bend right before it is pushed into the print head/nozzle/hotend. It eventually went and I started printing the typical riser. Half way through it stopped and gave me the AMS error. I went through all the steps, even though I knew there shouldn’t be an issue. I even ended up replacing all of the ptfe tubes, Fully cleaned out the ams and printer (even though it’s new) and just now it’s even worse, as it won’t even go into the nozzle. When I pull the ptfe away from the print head and attempt to feed manually it feels kinda of crunchy…? Not sure what that means. So I’ve given up on it today and will attempt to look at tomorrow but I’m PISSED. I don’t understand what it could be. One thing I noticed when the only print attempted even started was when the ams would retract the filament, as its backing up the spool began jumpy? I checked, it’s not the ams itself so I’m not entirely sure what is going on.
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At first my ams struggled to feed the x2d and eventually made it in. However, it errored out half way the print. I took everything apart, cleaned it took and replaced the PTF tubes on the X2D and make sure there was nothing blocking no touch broken crazy Benz anything and now I can’t get it to feed at all. I’ve only tried a couple times but seriously pissed me off.
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YES! Me too! OK, I’ve had a DC circuit analysis class before. I know phantom voltage when I see it. To me a capacitor is holding on to current on the motors of the AMS Pro 2, and keeping the motors from rolling easily when they should. Roll the spool backwards just a hair (releasing the current in the capacitors) and bingo, the spool will roll forward with no issue. Bambu basically cheeped out on the AMS Pro 2 in its circuit design and did not expect current to be held in the capacitors as well as it is. Someone with more circuit knowledge than me can attest or deny, but this is what I’m able to determine with my basic knowledge and simple physical testing.
Add to that the feeding into the printer is so complicated, and this will be an issue all the time.
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I haven’t looked but are they brushed DC toy motors? Anyway there aren’t usually capacitors in a DC motor circuit unless they are for noise reduction/ fly back noise from the motor. High frequency, high voltage in the pf value range. The only large cap would be in the board supply itself.
My AMS 1’s struggled on my X1C with filament tube length and more than one bend in the tubes. To fix this I removed the AMS hub from the machine and made it come in from the left side straight into the print head feed tube, and shortened the tubes to the hub from that AMS units. Now it works so much better. Much quicker changes. No struggles. Before the motors sounded like a V8 engine when the starter was struggling to turn it over.
Might check your connections. Re-seat them. Sometimes a wire can push back out the back of the connector housing if a pin is not locked in. Those cables are usually made by machine. Sometimes a wire doesn’t get stripped correctly or cuts/ breaks half or more of the wire strands and then crimped so the wire can’t carry the full current… seen that a time or 2.
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None experianced user, so I changed Zero settings as I wouldn’t know what the heck i was doing anyway. So far, all dual-color prints have worked great!
Thanks so much Narg, you were right, after your advise I came across a cap that went away blocking the y axis so I had to return the printer for some misalighment waiting for the new one. It was due to a bad transportation so now expecting a new one. Regards.
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I was able to get the AMS to work. It does struggle with any extra length but ultimately after replacing the tubes and moving “2inches closer” it works. I’ve since created my own workarounds and is great. 