Hi,
I have had a print resulting in a bend hot end. I replaced the hot end with
Since I was replacing anyway, I replaced also the extruder with this.
I wanted to upgrade the P1S a bit. The prints resulting in a mess. No print works and the filament does not stuck at the printing bed at all.
Do I have the change settings in the slicer and for print type P1P type nozzle 0.4mm? Any hints?
Greatly appreciated.
Added a Engineering hot plate and switched config to bambu lab p1p 0,4mm nozzle and prints are working again. If anybody has an idea why textured PEI Plate does not work, please let me know. Thanks
Apologies if this is a bit basic question to ask but did you check you’ve selected the right “Plate type”?
Hey, thanks for your input, greatly appreciated. I switched from textured plate to hot plate and the print now sticks to the plate.
Leaves the question why textured plate does not work for me. I have a p1s printing with closed door / enclosure.
Have you cleaned the textured plate? It may just need a good clean with hot soapy water and a wipe down with ipa.
Yeah, 8 cleaned it carefully.
Despite that the prints are stuck to the bed, which is good, I’m struggling to get a good result
See here a bag Ich a figure. The bag backside is a mess. Any hints?
Aside from any printing issues, the sliced model file looks really terrible for printing. Suggest printing something like a Calibration Cube (or other calibration model) as it will be a much better reference.
Of Course! 
Thanks a lot!
Well that looks much better than the last print you posted.
What filament are you using? Have you done any of the manual filament calibrations provided by Bambu Studio?
I have made the calibration for the stock bambu filament. The prints are a 3rd party filament. Guess I have to do the calibration again for the 3rd party ones. Thanks for the link, I have now something to read and learn 
I have made the manual calibration and adjusted the flow rate to 0,931. I understand now that different filament profiles exist with adjust able parameters.
Left dice is before calibration and right one after. Printing result on complex object is still very bad. Result on bambu filament is ok.
What else can I try?
I have now installed a fork of the orcaslicer.
Here the picture of temp tower
Even my worst print looks 10 times better than this one. What filament do you use?
If this is the print quality of your printer, something is terribly wrong.
Did you print something from the printer internal memory presliced models?
This is the Standard calibration model from ocra sclicer.
I was stuck on bambu slicer. Now I know that I have to try temp above 230 since is getting better and better.
Might be the hotend is damaged?
I have built in this one.
Filament is a 3rd party filament. Before exchange of hotend I had good results with exact this filament.
You mentioned earlier that printing with this filament was not a problem. After changing the hotend (the exact same model) the problem starts. It could be the hotend, thermostat, or cooling fan that’s causing the problem.
Check the Part Fan (the one on the front housing). You can turn it on/off from the App or P1P screen. If it’s working you should be able to hear it turn on/off.
I got the same type of Temperature Tower when I had not reconnected it properly after some maintenance - I didn’t realise it hadn’t been working for several days and I couldn’t understand why I was getting garbage prints.
Problem solved after dissambly and assembly of the hotend
