Flag Warping with ASA

While I was printing a flag for my garden using ASA on my Bambu P1S, I noticed that the printer started getting much noisier, like a grinding noise. For this print I had my nozzle at 260 degrees and my print bed at 90. Both the front door and lid were closed. It was clear when I looked that warping was the issue.

However, once I cancelled the print I discovered that the flag never lost adhesion to the build plate but, rather, the build plate itself was partially lifted up from the heater!

Is there anything I can do about this, or is this just something that is beyond the capabilities of the P1S?

If I understand you, you’re saying the bed actually pulled up from the magnetic base, is that correct?

There might be a solution. I have not tested these first two from Printables yet but I am on a search for bed clips that will hold down an non-magnetic G10 plate I’ve been experimenting with.

Here are the first two clips that I’ve been meaning to test out. These were designed expressly for the purpose of keeping glass beds pinned to the plate.

NOTE: You will want to test these for clearance. Apply them to your plate and then move the head around either through the front panel or shutting off the power and moving it around manually like you would do when cleaning the rods. You want to verify that the head won’t collide with the clips.


This is a third one that looked most promising because it stayed out of the way of the printable area but as you will see, it only holds the front part of the plate down. It doesn’t look like it will fit where the build plate hangs off. It was made for a simple square plate without the Bambu notches. I haven’t tested it yet as I just discovered it this weekend. If it works it would make the perfect compliment to the spring clips that I found on Amazon.


I did test this one out and it did not work very well at all and you need to mess with the clearance height in the slicer machine settings. I did not like that because it could cause collisions with the base if you forget to implement that profile. I did use them in combination with purpose-built print bed clips. and now that I found the clips just mentioned above, I may use these as my front clips and use the Stainless steel spring clips below for the back.


Here’s what I did verify that worked but they only fit one the back corners, and the front left corner. The right corner of the heated bed is twice the thickness of the other three surfaces. So I ended up doing a combo of a screw-on version of my own design(very kludgy at the moment) and these three clips. When you apply them to the back, the only fit on the right and left hand side. They are bitch to get on and off and watch out not to pinch yourself. But they held the plate in place very well. I used a small patch of painter’s tape underneath the clip to reduce scratching and marring of the plate. It also provided for less slippage of the clip when installing.

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you say :

But your photograph shows otherwise, although we can see the heater bed…??? confused.

yes that can happen especially with a large surface part positioned all the way to the edges of the build plate like yours. Avoid getting close to the edges whenever possible, the further away the better

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I would add a brim and increase the bed temp a little bit. I had some trouble getting ASA to stick by default, it’s a picky filament.

Try increasing the bed temperature to 100C, it will reduce the chances of shrinking while printing. Turn the chamber fan off or at 10-20% while printing so it doesn’t cool the chamber too much. Also, did you preheat the chamber? Before printing, turn the bed temperature to 100-110C, home the bed so it goes to the top and turn on the auxiliary fan to blow the heat from the bed around the chamber. Preheat for 15 or more minutes. I wait until the chamber gets to about 43C, some other people wait until it gets to 50C.

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