Hi, I’m struggling to print Fillamentum Flexfill TPE 96A on an X1C printer. The filament won’t adhere to any build plate. I’ve tried a cool plate at 30°C and 50°C, with and without glue, an engineering plate, and textured PEI, also with and without glue. My prints, specifically a 40 x 40 mm cube, fail by the second layer. Any suggestions?
Usually it’s the opposite with TPU, it sticks too well and is hard to get off the plate without a release agent. A lot don’t need a heated plate to stick even. I usually just use the generic profile but use the high temp plate at 50-60°c and -240°c nozzle and then stick the plate with print in the freezer for a few minutes to remove it.
yes, TPU sticks to the bed. I’m having troubles with TPE
That thing with the freezer seems a good trick to “persuade” those “stubborn” prints. Will give it a try, see how it works. Thx for the tip.
Hi,
Did you find any way to print with TPE Flexfill 90A from Fillamentum?
I’m having the same trouble, when going to the second layer the print detaches from the build plate…
Can’t figure a way to do it properly…
I’ve achieved some successful prints by going really slow and using a Lightyear G10 plate with Magigoo PP. I’m really liking the G10 plate as it eliminates the need for glue or 3dlac for many materials, but TPE definitely needs more adhesion.
Current settings (still fine-tuning for my X1C, so they might change):
- Flow Ratio: 1.05
- Nozzle Temperature: 240°C
- G10 Plate Temperature: 50°C
- Max Volumetric Speed: 1.8 mm³/s
- Use a large brim if necessary
I keep the front door open while printing. I’ve noticed that heat buildup in the chamber often leads to warping.
Hi! Thanks for the info.
I’ve tried these settings and was able to laid down 10 layers, but after that the object started to peel from the build plate and detached completely again
I’m going to try a big brim and see how it goes… also going to buy your suggested build plate😉
Did you used magigoo PP?
TPU and TPE aren’t the same tipe of matirial… tpu is really good on bed adesion, but the tpe isn’t the same it warp from first 2/3 leyers from 50 leyers on my test
for increase the adhesion i have a little tips, if you are in the first step (0 adesion and do spaghetti in 10 leyers you cuold increase the superfece on adhesion with brim and you sould set concetric finiture on bottom and the same for the pattern.
don’t use glue it’s a waste of time.
if you are in a pretty good situation (20 or more leyer before the collapse i reaccomend to open the printer do some test with temperature).
i’ m still testing (i print but without a good planarity )
brim 20 mm with 0.02 gap (use a cutter to remove it)
if someone has other tips are really welcome.
you cuold contect me on tiktok to a direct discussion @fun3dxprint
this settings are good play on that and dry the filament… myne has a lot of umidity in.
you could use a 0.6/8 nozzle if your model can support that (i have 0.6 walls so it’s not good)