So, I am a relatively new P1S owner and have run into an issue for which I have not found a solution in this forum. That is, the $& U%) pin for the flipper/knocker has now fallen out twice, along with the flipper/knocker. Can I make a small print or other fabrication to make the darned thing stay?
Your description is a bit hard to follow. A photo of the part in question, is unclear. Are you referring to the lever at the back of purge chute AKA poop Chute?
Depending on the damage, you could repair it or for $15, replace the entire assembly.
Yes however nothings broken the pin just falls out. Not worth pulling apart the whole back just to replace the flipper in my opinion when there is likely an easy fix. Ive never done any modeling so i dont know where to even start making this fix for myself
Pins in that diameter don’t lend themselves to 3D printing as they are too thin and the resolution of the filament just isn’t precise enough.
If the pin is falling out, that’s an indication that there may be either a defect in the lever or it may be damaged. This is one of those rare occasion where I’d recommend JB Weld. Mix up a small batch and reinforce the hole then put the pin in before it cures. You’ll have to leave it overnight.
If you don’t have experience with using JB weld, there are too many videos on YouTube which talk about tips and trick.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=jb+weld+tips+and+tricks
The only suggestion I might make is get the premixed syringe dispenser. It will let you squeeze out even amounts of the epoxy and hardener and then all you do is mix. It’s a lot easier than measuring it out. I wish they had this years ago. You’re local hardware store will carry it and Walmarts also have it. You might even find it at a convenience store near a highway because it’s a favorite of truckers.
This will likely sound off the wall but maybe put the pin back in place and if you have a soldering iron, melt some filament plastic to prevent pin from dropping out.
I had a project where I needed to fix some coarse mesh to a printed part and that was a swag that worked really well.
Cut about 1’ of filament to be able to hold it like a strand of solder.
Dialed soldering iron way down to melt filament but not burn it.
Put a blob of plastic over mesh but also pushed tip into already printed part to bond the two filaments together.
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I believe that lever is made of nylon and it is very hard to bond to other plastics with the solder iron trick.
Also JB-Weld does not work on nylon so I believe. The small mixing stick coming with 2-part epoxy adhesive is nylon.
I think the best way is to find a small piece of scrap plastic that feel the same, very flexible and a bit smooth like that lever and use solder iron to reinforce the spot where the pin slips out.
Nylon is the easiest plastic for mould injection but the worst for 3D printing. You can find nylon almost everywhere on cheap chinesium products.
If it is just a worn out snap/press fit, you might be able to deform the plastic the pin snaps into.
I’ve seen a metal sprocket fixed on a shaft (with no key way slots) by using a center punch and hammer and denting the shaft and sprocket. Same principle but just melt instead of dent, or place a small weld bead