I intend to put a loop of LED strip in my P1S and decided my first pass attempt would be a riser ring that lays on top of the printer glass location, then you put the glass on top of the riser due to size constraints I had to print 4 separate parts. What is the best glue to bond them together. The prints came out pretty well with the exception of the T-Slot sort of connection on the ends it is pretty loose. I just finished the last two parts and will fit them tomorrow.to see just how loose they are. I may be able the make some sort of shim but the glue/solvent question still remains
The best bonding agent really depends on what you’re trying to achieve. While we often use the word “glue” as a catch-all, there are three main types of bonding agents to consider. Here’s a quick overview:
- Glue: General term for adhesives, often suitable for lightweight applications.
- Epoxy: A strong, durable option that requires mixing and works well for heavy-duty bonds.
- Cement: Specifically for plastics, this chemically welds the pieces together for a permanent bond.
For bonding two pieces of plastic, I recommend using Acrylic Cement. Unlike glue, cement actually fuses the plastic together at a molecular level, making the joint as strong as if you had printed it that way.
Click below to show table.
Click here: to expand to a summary table of agents that I stole off a chemical company website and reworded in a previous post.
| Bonding Agent | Advantages | Disadvantages | Application Process |
|---|---|---|---|
| Glue | Easy to use, dries quickly, versatile, inexpensive | May not be strong enough for heavy-duty applications, limited temperature resistance | Apply in liquid form directly to surfaces and press together |
| Epoxy | Very strong bond, resistant to chemicals and heat, good gap-filling properties | Takes time to cure, requires precise mixing, may become brittle over time | Requires mixing of resin and hardener before application |
| Cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) | Fast-setting, forms a strong bond with minimal effort, bonds to a variety of materials | Brittle, poor resistance to impact and heat, difficult to remove | Apply in liquid form directly to surfaces; bonds in seconds |
| Polyurethane Adhesive | Waterproof, strong bond, flexible, can bond dissimilar materials | Longer curing time, messy to apply, requires clamping for best results | Apply in liquid form, often requires moisture to cure |
| Silicone Adhesive | Flexible, resistant to water and temperature extremes, good for outdoor use | Slow to cure, lower bond strength compared to other adhesives, can degrade over time | Apply in paste form, needs time to cure |
| Acrylic Adhesive | Very strong bond, fast-setting, works on plastics, glass, and metal | May require surface preparation, can be expensive, potential toxicity | Apply in liquid form, may require surface preparation |
| Contact Cement | Instant bond, versatile, water-resistant, ideal for large surface areas | Difficult to reposition once applied, may require ventilation due to fumes | Apply to both surfaces, allow to dry partially, then press together |
 Acrylic Plastic Cement |
Creates a strong, nearly invisible bond, fast-setting, ideal for acrylic plastics | Limited to specific materials (mostly acrylic), may release harmful fumes, requires precise application | Apply in liquid form, often using a syringe or applicator for precision |
This is the one I use and recommend. Why? Because it is permanent. Cements act as true “welds.” What do I mean by that distinction? The material is a solvent for the two materials being bonded, and as such, the materials become one solid part at the molecular level. Just like metal that is welded using heat, you’ll quickly find that the “welded seam” is stronger than the surrounding plastic. I’ve tested this with solid prints and then attempted to rip them apart using a pair of vise grips and a vise. The plastic eventually tore, but not at the weld.
This is the stuff I use:
If you’ve ever done PVC plumbing, you will have likely come across this material before. The big player in that business is Weld-On. Click here for a search term for alternates, but I found the SCIGRIP product to be the most cost-effective, and the tube is very convenient. I keep it in a holder near my desk.
Just note that it is very “runny” material, so I find that pouring it into a small dish (I usually print up a disposable 30x10mm PLA cup) and then applying it with a brush works best. I keep a supply of solder flux brushes on hand, and I typically use them once for this purpose.
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Shameless plug for my own lighted riser
Although it seems like you already have your solution, I offer this up as an idea as to what you will face in your design.
I remixed a version of a lighted riser and inverted the design for the LED strips. I linked to it in my Printables profile. This created an off-set lighting effect similar to Cove Lighting Click Here, as seen in high-end interior design, which eliminated the direct glare of the LED. I found this to be very effective, as the other lighter riser solutions I found on the web either used a shroud or didn’t cover it at all, and those approaches created lighting hot spots that ruined time-lapsed photos.
Also, I used 3M Dual Lock Fasteners to secure the riser to the P1P top but you may find a better alternative. I had to add a gasket to seal off the rest of the unit. However, Dual Lock allows for removal if needed. I think if I had to do it over again I’d likely switch to 3M VHB tape which is actually the same bonding material that is used on the LED strips themselves, only it’s available at varying thicknesses.
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I find myself using this glue B-7000 for everything now: plastic to plastic, plastic to metal…
Bonus for a “commercial” video
Put your headphone on 
Having installed what at times felt like miles (to my back and knees) of sch 40 PVC sprinkler system pipe, this is the ticket. I’ve always used this stuff for the zone pipe with each head on a short piece of more flexible black pipe because it gives when someone invariably drives over a sprinkler head. Although I often forego the primer.
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That’s good because the analogy I drew above about “welding” vs “gluing” should land in your experience strike zone.
I’m sure you’ve had the mishap of bonding two pieces of PVC together prematurely. Did you manage to yank them apart before they set? If not, you know that once the bond cures, there’s no way to disassemble the joint—it has to be cut out. That’s why I like using cement in 3D printing. I often design screw hole supports while developing a model, but when I’m ready to commit, I remove the screw holes to give it a nice molded appearance before bonding it with cement. You need to wait 24 hours for a full cure, but once that’s done, that part of the model won’t come apart.
Another method, not generally available to consumers, is using an ultrasonic welder. These machines are pricey and not commonly found in a typical workshop. But as you know, with ROHS and REACH compliance, anything containing solvents is frowned upon these days, so ultrasonic welding is a better chemical-free alternative. I’ve used this technique in my day job when we wanted to prevent anyone from accessing the enclosure after it left the factory. Sure, it can be broken apart, but the key word here is “broken.” It also takes a lot of skill to use correctly. Cement, if applied carelessly, can get onto surfaces and look “janky,” to use a slang term my Canadian friends love. 
But if you use it like touch-up paint, applying it carefully and clamping generously, you’ll get it where you want, and it’ll turn out great.
Nope. That’s what the PVC shears are for.
I’m going to do a dry fit check after I get back from an errand and was mulling over how to clamp it to insure it is square on all four sides.
I looked at a ton of risers on Printables yesterday and almost all left out a vital dimension for a riser How tall does it stand above the case.
A bunch also printed a TPU gasket for the glass to sit on but I’m going to Lowe’s and will get some felt or rubber strip as my gasket. Similar to what is on it now.
Bambu doesn’t make it easy to run LED strips inside the hull of enclosure. I pulled back cover off and fiddled around looking at options and that’s what decided me on a riser.
I had a spare spool of LED strip including power supply and remote.
I printed a TPU gasket and truth be told, it did not add anything to the design and I removed it. My glass sits up against the plastic. The version I put on Printables if I recall did have a deeper well to ensure that the glass did not slide around or accidentally pop out. I’m pretty sure I uploaded a STEP file if you want to do a parametric measurement check to compare to your design. If not, let me know and I will see if this forum will let me add that. If not, I’ll just add it to the Printables model.
One I made came off Printables.
When there are well beyond 1000 models available I’m not going to reinvent the wheel.
Next project after LED’s is some sort of object to mount sensors to that will come out of enclosues as one item.
Taping down the QWIIC I2C cables isn’t going to fly long term.
I’m looking forward to seeing those results. As I mentioned previously, that’s a project I’ve imagined but not had the time or energy to devote to. I would definitely piggyback off of your heavy lifting.
Yeah, that’s a new evolution for me because many of the sensors are analog and easier to connect to microcontrollers than to a Pi.
Adafruit has written special plug & play firmware which from an ease of installation perspective are simplicity itself.
Same sensors you have to write a python script, merge scripts to run on a Pi or other single board computer.
Then get it to run through power hiccups, just a lot of work.
I’ve done it numerous times and it is tedious to get it all correct and so trying to do same with microcontrollers to try something new.