I finally got my Lightyear3D G10 build plate in the mail today and I’m trying to find some info on printing temps, other than the initial bed temps that they suggest, so I don’t have to spend hours on trial and error (which will probably happen anyway). Surprisingly, for the amount of posts I’ve seen saying G10 is great, there isn’t much info I could find on temperatures. I’m asking because when I started printing with PEX plates, I ruined a few because the nozzle temps were too high for the first layer. Now that I’ve got that figured out and can successfully complete big prints in ASA and PC with no warping or adhesion issues, I’d like to replicate that with the G10 plates. Are standard Bambu nozzle temps already perfect or does G10 need different temperatures? What’s your experience?
Using my X1C, I’m printing ABS on my lightyear build plate at a bed temperature of 120C. It works great! The ABS sticks just fine at that temperature, even with no bed adhesive, but when the lightyear even halfway cools off (i.e. reaches the midpoint between 120C and ambient temperature), then all the ABS parts just slide off the build plate effortlessly. I am very happy.
Nice - I tried 105C first, and the corners of my print lifted. no lift at 110C… but there are bubbles under the sheet - big ones 
I haven’t seen any bubbles on mine, even at 120C. If yours id bubbling, that sounds like a defect that their QC should have screened out at the factory.
Seems like a bad batch or something. I am on my first replacement and its worse than the original out of the box. Seems like they mightve changed something or not had proper qc
I just recently did start seeing bubbles on my white one, but I haven’t seen it make any impact on the printed objects. Not yet, anyway. Maybe it doesn’t matter? Or does it get worse with time? Maybe those of you who print a lot more than I do can comment.
interesting. you got a replacement already? i asked for one - they said they would send, but that was weeks ago and no response since.