Drying often helps with PETG stringing, so that is a good start. 16 hours sounds like a lot, but if you have a digital scale, drying until the spool stops losing weight will guarantee all the moisture is gone.
Best way to create a good profile for any filament, on your printer, in your environment, is to start from scratch and test one variable at a time over a range of values. You can find individual tests, but the easiest way is to use the collected tests in the top-line Calibration menu of OrcaSlicer.
Usually starting with a Generic preset for the material and then calibrating nozzle temperature, flow rate, and pressure advance is sufficient to get good prints. The remaining tests can be helpful if you still have a specific problem.
It takes a little time and filament to create your own profiles, but it in the long run it is quicker and cheaper than trying random values or profiles developed by others, on different printers in different conditions.
all done before coming here to ask for advise. I’ve used almost an entire spool for calibration prints I’ve got a whole bunch of this brand and I do want to waste it. or bin it
I thought that I’d covered it in the original post.
really bad stringing and gaps in the outer walls.
I thought that it might be under extrusion, or maybe dragging from over extrusion, so I did an extrusion tower and from max to minimum the problem was the same. 80 extrusion to 120.
Retraction seems to be hit and miss, it helps with the stringing but not the gaps.
I don’t think that the problem is with my printer, as I’m having it with several different printers. It’s most likely the profile.
If someone has used this specific filament and already has it dialed in for a Bambu, then the odds are that the same profile will resolve my problem. I’ve already got another thread going elsewhere about trying to dial it in myself.