Drying often helps with PETG stringing, so that is a good start. 16 hours sounds like a lot, but if you have a digital scale, drying until the spool stops losing weight will guarantee all the moisture is gone.
Best way to create a good profile for any filament, on your printer, in your environment, is to start from scratch and test one variable at a time over a range of values. You can find individual tests, but the easiest way is to use the collected tests in the top-line Calibration menu of OrcaSlicer.
Usually starting with a Generic preset for the material and then calibrating nozzle temperature, flow rate, and pressure advance is sufficient to get good prints. The remaining tests can be helpful if you still have a specific problem.
It takes a little time and filament to create your own profiles, but it in the long run it is quicker and cheaper than trying random values or profiles developed by others, on different printers in different conditions.
all done before coming here to ask for advise. I’ve used almost an entire spool for calibration prints I’ve got a whole bunch of this brand and I do want to waste it. or bin it
I thought that I’d covered it in the original post.
really bad stringing and gaps in the outer walls.
I thought that it might be under extrusion, or maybe dragging from over extrusion, so I did an extrusion tower and from max to minimum the problem was the same. 80 extrusion to 120.
Retraction seems to be hit and miss, it helps with the stringing but not the gaps.
I don’t think that the problem is with my printer, as I’m having it with several different printers. It’s most likely the profile.
If someone has used this specific filament and already has it dialed in for a Bambu, then the odds are that the same profile will resolve my problem. I’ve already got another thread going elsewhere about trying to dial it in myself.
Hi,
i own a p1s for two days so i’m still learning
I have a bunch of geeetech PETG as well (printed without problems on a Anycubic before) and failed to print it using the standard PETG profile on my P1S (with AMS).
I then used your settings and this at least made everything work. The prints don’t look as clean as the PLA from Bambu Lab, but it’s good enough for many of my prints. I’m now making sure that I use up the kilo, accessories for the printer and Gridfinity stuff, containers etc.
My FDM adventure started with PETG on an open AC printer and what I think is people prints too much hot for the material.
I have all types of it (the best I have are the Jayo HF matte, very nice outcome, I love it) and I print the last at 220 (225 if i want to go sport mode) 16mm3 volumetric speed on a 70°c bed (bq glacier for its smooth pattern) 0.95 flow ratio for an original 0.4 nozzle. (other petgs are slower)
I suggest to take all official parameters as a starting base, not as truth…
When I get a new filament the first question is how much I can pump up nozzle temp before it start to have issues at low speeds.
If you want to try something I suggest to print at 220° all layers with volumetric speed 10mm3
Has anyone made Geeetech JSON files for the different filaments they offer for an easier load? Does anyone know the full JSON format that Bambu Labs will input?
Are you able to export your filament setting JSON files and share for Geeetech which are working on your printer? I have a P2S and wonder if the ones you will share will work