You’re probably aware that using different kinds of sparse infill patterns in your 3D models can help make it stronger, faster, or lighter (or even float), but did you know that a few simple slicer tweaks can also add a little extra pop to your designs with flat surfaces? Or even become a focal point that takes your model to a whole new level?
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I didn’t! But once I figured it out, I knew I wanted to show others who might not have already known either- so I created this quick how-to guide that explains how you can use settings in Bambu Studio to add new decorative elements to your models with six easy steps. I have used the same steps in AnycubicSlicerNext as well- though the output of the patterns does vary a little bit in some cases. I can’t speak for whether this will work in any other slicers.
NOTE: This guide covers the basic steps for this technique and is meant for those who are somewhat familiar with 3D printing and working with slicers, etc., but I am planning to put together a more in-depth how-to video at some point in the future. In the meantime if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to ask- if I don’t know the answer I’m sure that someone else in the community does!
If you found this helpful and/or interesting, make sure to also check out my other how-to-guide here: Make Your Model's Surface Pop with a Simple Slicer Hack- 6 Easy Steps!
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Nice pics and all but that is nothing new …
And rather than cutting the bottom off and messing with it I prefer it the other way around, but that is just flavour VS taste.
I was quite happy when the gyro infill finally worked because I use it to make air filters LOL
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As they say, there is nothing new under the sun- but there are always newbies to hobbies and areas of knowledge- so this is for those who may not already know this. Obviously we didn’t know it before we figured it out, and if we found it useful there may be others who do too- this may save them the filament and time of experimenting to get the same results that we’ve already figured out. If not, it is just my time spent making the post 
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Agreed!
And a nice presentation with pics helps a noob more than just downloading ready to print models.
Having said that > Did you know that you can even include text and logos in those infill only mods ?
You can even create like a box where a custom infill only pattern continues evenly through all walls.
Works a bit easier in a CAD program though then trying in Studio.
You basically create just the outlines of the box walls to be assembled.
Then you create the pattern and have those wall templates sitting on top with the required spacing.
Use them like a cookie cutter, then replace them with the real walls you want for your box.
Those now island infill regions are exported as part one and the walls as part two in STL format.
Upon import you select that they are part of the same model and can define how they will be printed.
The beauty here is that you can get really creative with the infill pattern as it is just another model.
Create it with a single wall width, make it thicker, make it look like the outlines of a face, do it in different colours,…
Just saying in case you want to make it a series and keep adding 
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I was aware of adding text/logos- not sure if it is in the way that you mean. And I’m pretty sure your suggestions on making “cookie cutters” or islands is going to help me with the specific problem I was trying to solve before finalizing these custom text models in the pics… I wanted to have the center areas under the words to be solid instead of having the infill continue throughout the whole layer, but I experimented with adding positive and negative primitive objects and such but ultimately I hadn’t been able to quite get it right. And then ADHD struck hard and I got distracted by my next idea and shelved them lol. The biggest reason I wanted the centers to be solid all the way down to the base layer was because putting the solid center layers for the text to rest on on top of the open sparse infill pattern required a lot of extra solid layers and the first few with the bridging is just rough and leaves a messy edge and hollow spaces underneath.
I am always open to learning more and would be happy to have more techniques to eventually make how-tos for. Thank you for the suggestions and creative leads so far!
I think based on what you were saying, I can create the center shape separately in a CAD program and then import it and the original model as .stls and combine them on the plate? Then I can move on to experimenting with the infills in other ways as you mentioned 
Not quite but close
If you want to try with Studio I think it should work like this:
Create the text as an object and remove it from the bottom of the model.
The infill pattern should then leave out the text while the ‘wall’ of the text is the same as for the rest of the model.
And yes, I guess that is what I tried to say, create the infill in a CAD program to get the highest level of flexibility and creativity out of it.
No one says that an infill has to based on single lines, nor that an infill has to be an infill.
A honeycomb style filter screen is, in a printed form, just infill but if created in CAD it can come with more than a single wall or just one colour…
I like that you can use it not only save material but also to add strength to parts without needing a top or bottom layer.
Quite nice for lattice constructions and such…
Why bother trying to print a flimsy triangle based crane outrigger if you can just print the three sides and join them = if you get the idea…
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I see- the other problem I was having is that I was making these as examples for customizable text which requires the words to remain in the original format created with the slicer- that way people can just right click on them and customize to whatever they desire. Once the text format is changed or split into parts etc, it becomes un-editable 
. In any case- this gives me some great places to restart when I finish with other projects, thank you again for taking the time and helping!
Well, that’s all plain standard in Studio…
Works the same if you use a SVG as the base or such…
Still works easier and with more control in CAD if you ask me.
The text and object does not even have to be included if custom is the goal anyway.
Just add it where needed
Of course it would make sense to use a font suitable for laser engraving or such to prevent those problems with certain characters like the ‘e’ loosing the insides when you lift it off the bed…
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Rather than cutting the model into parts or separating it in the CAD application, the whole thing can be done with the Height range Modifier.
- Right-click the original model and select the Height range Modifier.
- In the objects panel (you should have been taken there automatically, if not, it is on the left side of the Prepare Tab).
- Set the height of the modifier
- Select the modifier
- Add all your changes (from your examples) to the properties at the bottom linked to the height range modifier.
You have all the same control you suggested to people, without ever having to modify the actual model.
You can quickly use the settings by doing the following:
- Right-click the model
- Choose the Clone option
- (or simply select the model and use control/command K)
- After moving the model anywhere you want, likely to a new build plate…
- … select the model in the merged group (your original model name)
- Right-click this entry, choose ‘Replace with STL’ and choose a new STL or OBJ file.
All the settings now apply to a new model, without any CAD changes or cutting.
You can now have as many models with as many styles without ever making changes to the model themselves, let the liver do the heavy lifting and complex calculations.
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So I am still slooooooowly learning CAD stuff- I do basic stuff in Tinkercad but have been learning Plasticity a little at a time. A lot of these how-tos and custom models I want to make I want to be easy for anyone to use or customize- even new people who don’t know much yet or who aren’t designers at all, etc. I want to work towards more in depth and technically complicated stuff over time for sure.
I fiddled around with height range modifier at one point for something else but didn’t think to apply it to these types of models- it definitely sounds like a much more efficient way to produce various styles of the same base model. I really appreciate the new techniques folks are providing, I will definitely have to go back and try them all and experiment until I fully understand them. Thank you!
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