this is an orthotic print, addnorth PA in filadryer, 0.4nozz, 0.2 strength, 100% shells/perimeter (or wall loops as bambulab studio calls it), arachne.
The other side looks great.
Not quite sure why still, but I ran into an issue that looks exactly like that while printing this part over the weekend. That model was in 3MF format and sliced using Simplify3D. Figuring the issue was model related, I opened the 3MF file in Meshmixer and then saved it as an STL. Changing nothing else, I sliced the model again with Simplify3D and that issue was gone.
Long story short, the issue could be the model itself.
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i wouldnāt think itās the model, i printed an identical one on the prusa mk3 the other week. these are all own designs from fusion360 ā stl ā bambu studio whereas earlier it was prusaslicer. the bambulab should be able to handle the model. iām thinking more itās a slicing setting. but what would it be?
the filament is high quality PA, pre-dried, pre-heated.
Itās certainly possible. Iām not aware of any slicer settings that would product that output.
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Looks like the position may be a problem weāre the aux cooling fan is not able to cool, as the layer are forming. Try repositing on the bed with ends closer and facing the fan. My guess is thatās the end were your Z seam is at. The shape also my be causing an issue in the fan stream.
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so if i rotate/move the model, that would help maybe?
If it is a layer cooling issue see
The Bambu slicer is fairly good at positioning for you but if you think about the fans wind stream sometimes you can do it better than the slicer. Ask the slicer to position (box in upper right corner) it for you and maybe increase Aux fan speed if it not already at 100%.
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Aux 100% right
what should the other two fans be set at?
Actually I am saying turn the Aux up I would only do it at 10% increments. If your adhesion is good donāt mess with the others. If you adjust more than one setting at a time you wonāt know what helped. I would turn the object so the two end points face the fan and then if your fan is running at 50% then turn it up to 60%. If at 70%turn it up to 80 etc. If it already 100% then you have no more room to turn it up. So if thatās the case just position the object with the 2 ends facing the fan.
I would be wary about using the aux fan. Cooling the whole model encourages it to warp and lift from the bed.
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Ture maybe being PA itās lossing heat the further it gets from the bed. So turn down your fans at what ever layer the the problems seem to be starting at.
I tried turning the AUX up to 100% (it was at zero). It turned out beautiful, but very brittle and hence not useful for my purpose. With the prusa i print with no fan for PA, so i suspected this could happen. But also the prusa has no enclosure.
This is were you have to put the Aux fan to 25% as you need better adhesive quality. And better part quality. And maybe increase you filament temp another 5ā°.
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Iād consider that a success as you figured out the root of the problem.
As @Rocky_Prattistic suggested, now turn down the AUx fan until you are happy with both the optics as well as structure.
I will try AUX at 20%, higher temp and rotate it towards the fan. thanks.
The AUX fan at 20% helped significantly. Then another issue arose, a layer misalignment/shift. Happened twice and i aborted both because i canāt have that for this print. I know for the prusa printer itās usally a tightening of the toolhead and/or belt that resolves the issue. But the X1C is just weeks old and has been working OK, nothing seems loose either. Anyone experienced layer shifting with the X1C and what did you do to solve it?
I should add that bed adhesion was good so didnāt look like any lifting
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Something is now moving (bed) or the nozzle is hitting somewhere. You can try to re-slice in the slicer right click and try the fix (not sure whatās it called now) repair model feature. Then re-slice and send to the printer again. Iāve had the nozzle hit a small blob that came off the side of the nozzle and stuck to the layer then when the nozzle hits it jumps and skips like that. A tower may help as well but with PA can affect the layer adhesion. Wondering also how stable your printer is? Does it wable or shake when printing? The print other wise looks awesome!
There are some vibrations, but the printer is on a heavy duty workbench (think industrial type welding table). Iām thinking tilting the model and use support may give better resultsā¦
What does tower mean in this regard?
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Print tower basically get the nozzle running smoothly before each layer. However with PA it allows the layers to cool too much between and can cause adhesion problems between layers.
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