Yeah sure. That is arguably better. Depends on temp shifts and how easily the print will release once the glass cools. Personally I avoid glass altogether if I’m not printer on the CR-10…
I would assume all beds are warped to various degrees, right? I need a perfectly flat surface as well as perfectly perpendicular to the hotend.
As you say, any bed is warped and misaligned to a certain degree. When you say “perfect”, you need to specify the tolerance you require. Because you will not find the “perfect” surface.
I just bought a 257 x 257 glass build sheet for my A1 on Amazon. Can you just clip it to the build plate with those binder clips or what?
I got one on Amazon for under $20. But I don’t know how to use it. Do you just clip it on? And do you set the heat the same?
You may wish to just clip it on, but make sure that they do not interfere with the printer’s movement; alternatively you can use some high-temperature double-sided tape or a thin layer of silicone adhesive for a more permanent solution (to remove it you can just heat the silicon at a high temperature and then pry it, or you can use a solvent such as isopropyl alcohol).
Since you are using a tempered glass bed, you do not need to worry about the temperature damaging the glass (as long as you keep the standard build plate temperatures); though if you choose to use the silicone adhesive you should keep the temperatures lower than ~115ºC (remember to check the silicon adhesive recommended temperature use) but it should not be a problem since the max build plate temperature of the A1 is 100ºC, so you don’t have to worry about it.
Clamps on the print bed usually cause problems. Force sensors that don’t measure correctly or the clamps collide somewhere on the printer. The best option I found, and which others also use, is to take a magnetic plate as a base and stick the glass plate onto it. I used thin paper tape on both sides to stick it on. It’s a bit of tinkering because my glass plate isn’t the exact size, but it works.
With glass, however, it is important to note that certain filaments are easier to detach from it than others. That’s why I only use glass when I need it and for filaments that tend to warp more (as they also detach more easily from the glass when they cool down).
When you start crafting, remember that wood and paper are very heat-resistant in relation to 3D printing. This is why paper tape also works.
Best regards and happy holidays!
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Office paper clips 
There is always a size that fits, although they get longer and wider with size.
Take the spring clips for the fingers off once set on the plate and nothing will obstruct if you make sure they are not place in a spot where the head would go.
WAY overpriced! Should be under $30.
Thanks for the advice! I’ll give it a shot!
Are there any problems leveling the bed using glass?
Only if it is not balanced correctly (for example, if you do not apply the high-temperature double-sided tape symmetrically).
Hello, I would also like to use a 4mm thick glass plate as a printing plate. Can I just put the plate in and print? Do I have to change the Z offset in G-code because of the thicker plate? I would be very happy to receive answers. Thanks in advance
So many moons ago… I got a glass bed from the owner of the etsy shop. Before they were on etsy, they were on discord… I got one. Used it a few times, didnt think much of it, and shelved it.
I dug it out the other day and started playing with it. I peeled off the magnetic sticker matting and stuck the plate to an old engineering plate. I removed the bambu stickers on the plate so it was just plain metal etc.
I then used that cheap AS SEEN ON TV alien tape to stick it to the glass bed I had… and then I slapped it on my A1 fullsize and let that baby eat! Ive had no issues. Ive done 8 prints on it so far, no failures. just a plain ole tempered chunk of glass, cleaned with rubbing alcohol.
The nozzle RUBBING process seems to pose no issues. Ive had No warning, no failures, nothing. The only thing that doesnt work is the nozzle cleaning process where it rubs its nozzle on the rubber finger thingy on the upper left portion of the bed. Of all 8 prints, that part of the process has been un-needed so far.
I did post a quick clip of it printing on my tokTik and on FB in a few places. My user name is my handle on most places. Bottom surface comes off with a high gloss look. As we’ve all expected with glass beds, Theyre smoooth as can be. Glad I tried it again on my A1. I enjoy having non warped functional parts. lol
It’s not flat. There are plenty of metal/PEI build sheets for the Bambu printers. Thre are also plenty of glass bed sheets for the Bambu printers but we need some info on how to use them.
Wht info do you need?
Order a 257mm borosilicate glass plate from someone, or depending where you are get it from a company who makes them for 3D printers (In the UK I’ve always got them from OozNest, they’ve made them since the first makerbot) .
Either get a 257mm spring steel plate and some double sided thermal tape
or
A magnetic sticker and cut to size
Put it on your printer and run a full calibration because everything has changed
Slice with high temp/smooth pei
Smile because it’s 2025 and you no longer need to worry about forgetting to manually change the z offset and watch the tool head crash into the glass plate and crack it