Hi, I would like to request that Bambu or some 3rd party develop a glass build plate for the X1, I have them for my Enders and absolutely love them. Any seconds for this?
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What is the advantage ? The flat surface ?
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Yes the flat hard surface and I find the prints adhere well but also remove easily.
Also the glass plate is easy to clean and lasts longer than any other build surface I have tried.
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I can recommend this plate with a smooth surface as addon to the textured PEI Plate:
here a additional review:
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How would you hold it on the heatbed? I used glass on my old Flashforge Creator Pro but I had to use binder clips. Not sure there is room for that in the X1.
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I’ve been using this PEX plate as my “go-to” plate. Highly recommended.
I’m sure either a magnet could be embedded in the glass to hold it in place
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Use a good quality glass plate and place an adhesive magnetic sticker to the non-working side. Works well. Just make sure to recalibrate. I went to a local glass shop and had a 1/8 pane cut to the correct dimensions as well as ground the sharp edges.
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Good idea, I’ll go talk to my local glass company.
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What plate in studio did you spec out with the use of the glass plate?
Glass plate would be amazing. I have some Materials to print where all the manufacturers recommend Glass and didn’t get the materials running without.
So please BambuLab we need a glass build plate about 3-4mm thick 
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Read the “Warped Bed” thread. Glass and Mirror solutions and bandaids. Not saying your bed is warped, but that is what a lot of users have done. Links to purchase complete with magnetic options.
I also have an artillery X1, which has a glass bed and sorry to say they can come warped. Many that I know of when modding moved away from the glass bed. They can be problematic.
I put a glass plate on mine with spring steel glued to the bottom for holding it in place.
The magnet on the heating bed was strong enough to pull the glass tight to bed which causes the glass to become warped. Im trying it now with strips of spring steel around the outside edges of the glass so its not pulled down in the center.
You could put paper shims under the spring steel to bring up the centre of the bed.
Hello,
I had a vitroceramic glass cut at the good dimension, and I stuck a self adhesive metal sheet on one side. It works fairly well, however I face two minor issues with my X1C:
- there is no more the nozzle wiper tab at the back of the plate, so nozzle wipes in the air,
- I have a “nozzle too high” message which I need to clear at each printing initialization.
For the first point, I tried gluing a small angle on the edge of the glass plate, but it laked the flexibility that is provided by the tab of a normal Bambulab plate, and I could see that the printer was struggling a bit during the nozzle wipping phase. Also, I sometimes had vertical misalignment, with cases of adverse adherence issues, although the plate leveling was activated. So I removed the angle.
The “nozzle too high” message seems justified because of the added glass thickness (although it should probably read “nozzle too low”, but that is another discussion). Unless someone sees how to avoid it, I will have to live with it.
And make sure it’s tempered so it will handle the temperature changes better, and if it breaks, it crumbles instead of breaking into dangerous shards.
Best to use borosilicate glass, same stuff as ‘Pyrex’, like your oven door. The advantage is that it has a very low thermal expansion coefficient so it won’t crack due to repeated heating and cooling cycles. I’ve been printing on glass for years and it is absolutely the best printing surface. Prep with a thin layer of ABS slurry (ABS filament dissolved in acetone), everything (that I’ve tried) sticks like crazy until the plate cools down below 40°C then they lift off easily.
Please, don’t use tempered glass, use borosilicate.