After a lot of trial and error and wasting +€20 of PLA, I think it’s time I try to find answers here… I’m trying to print a boat for a friend of mine. It’s quite large, using almost the full size of the bed 3 times. I started with the middle piece, since it’s the shortest to print. It seemed the most easy of the 3 big parts, but I can’t get it to work out as it should…
The problem: the part warps in the back corners. Bed adhesion is fine though. The part even lifts the cool plate of the heatbed in said corners 1mm in the air. Here are some pictures of the latest attempt.
Older attempts:
Before I noticed the build plate itself warping off the heatbed, I’ve tried some stuff like changing temperature of the bed and the nozzle. Also ensured there’s no nozzle clog with two cold pulls because suddenly I also had a problem where my second layer didn’t adhere to the (perfect) first layer anymore. Here’s some pictures of that.
I managed to fix that by tweaking temperatures and cold pulls. Then suddenly I’ve got another problem: the grid infill went bad for some reason. Swapped it with gyroid for the last attempt which worked out better.
Now what really annoys me: I’ve printed the boat twice before and it worked out great without a single problem (see picture below). So I’m really confused on why it wouldn’t work out a third time… Any suggestions on how to fix this warping? I now print on the cool plate, nozzle 220°C and bed at 35°C. The X1-C is closed (both top as door). All help is welcome and thank you in advance.
P.S.: I did receive a notification on the printer saying that I should lubricate the lead screws. Will do that today, but I assume this isn’t the problem.
Did you print any material using high bed temperature in the past?
I have noticed that magnetic sticker used for the heatbed loses some magnetic strength after printing high temp materials like ASA or PC. It’s a known problem of these stickers. Regular ones can lose all magnetic strength after heated over 120 degC, “hightemp” ones do the same, but at higher temperatures, like over 180 degC, but they still can lose some (not all) strenght even at lower temperatures.
It might be the reason why your build plate no longer sticks to bed so well as it did in the past.
I did in fact print quite some PA12 (nylon), so you’re info might be right. I’ll try the clamps TheHamburglar suggested to see if that resolves the plate from lifting of the heatbed.
Before doing this, try something else: I had the same issue and found out, that the problem was always in the left part of the print bed. This is the area, where the aux fan is directly blowing to. This fan is usually running with 70% for PLA. After switching of this fan in the filament settings, it was working for me. You can give it a try by simply switching it of manually, after the first layer was printed.
Hi, I have problems with PLA warping.
I increased BuildPlate Temp (Cool Plate) from 35 to 55, and also turned off the aux fan - but still same Issue. using PLA from Bambustore.
As you can see from the pictures, it happens when the top layers are added.
any1 any Idea?
There is simply too much tension from top layers. It will be extremely tricky to print this successfully.
I would probably go with slightly modified model with groves between board tiles, something like on the picture. That will let loose the tension in top layers.
The problem with the funny infill in my pictures got fixed simply by tuning down the speed. Everything above 200mm/s I lowered to 200mm/s. This roll of PLA (recycled PLA from Formfutura) seems unable to melt fast enough. I don’t have the problem with PolyTerra spools.
About the warping: turning of the aux fan did seem to help
Those are pretty good indicators that you need to calibrate that filament. Get temperature and flow ratio dialed in and you can probably increase the speed.
I am having a very similar problem. When printing PLA parts, the part warps but remains stuck to the cool plate. It is the cool plate that unsticks from the heatbed.
I observed this with eSun PLA+ filament, as well as other colored PLA filament.
I have tried many things, mainly :
Calibrating the printer,
printing with open/closed chamber,
stopping ventilation (part and aux),
increasing bed temp up to 55 °C,
reducing printing speeds down to 60 mm/sec (just kept the traveling speed at highest)
adding heatbed clips (they maintain the edges of the plate, but the cool plate still unsticks at 3 cm inside).
And I may forget two or three other details. It does not appear to change anything in the part warping.
Probably the shapes of the parts are a problem (long and narrow), but the same parts printed with the same filament on an old open-frame slow printer print quite well, just much slower.
I al running out of ideas. The Bambulab support recommandations have not been helpful.
It is a pity, because this printer has so many qualities. But this is really a show stopper.
I’m using this to fix original heated bed flattness, but it fixes the problem of weak magnetic force from original magnetic layer as well. You can call it a side effect. This plate has strong neodymium magnets inserted from the bottom, which hold the steel sheet rock solid.
I have tried playing with several parameters such as temperature or speed.
I also tried this casting plate, but the magnets are still not powerful enough.
The best results I obtain, although somewhat inconsistently, was using a glass plate with a good layer of glue.
Anyway, I have no doubt now that the basic problem was the shape of the parts. They are like bulkheads: thin, long and high. They are 30 to 35 cm long, and I had to print them diagonally on the plate.
I have no problem with other parts, so I forgive the printer.
This plate has strong neodymium magnets inserted from the bottom, which hold the steel sheet rock solid.