My H2D is first batch I think, got it in May here in Au. It’s done 900 hours and I only print PLA, and this machine imo runs better now than it did when new. It was great new, but it’s a smoother mother trucker these days. Delicious. Actually My X1C with 1800 hours is glorious, my 4 A1 minis print 97% as well the the big boys and my A1 at 1600hrs is a dream.
Sorry, not sorry.
Hey everyone — just to be clear, I’m not trying to disparage Bambu Lab at all. I actually own several of their printers and generally have had good experiences with them. I opened this thread not to bash the H2 but to surface some potential quality-control issues I’ve noticed so we can see if others are seeing the same things and hopefully get clarity on whether there’s something here worth Bambu’s attention.
I love the ecosystem and the performance of Bambu machines overall, but with the volume of posts and similar reports (e.g., filament/PTFE shedding in the H2D, guide nib wear, bed/platform anomalies, etc.) it felt worth discussing rather than dismissing.
Don’t undestand me wrong the H2D printed with realy good quality if its run!
But i waited one year to not buy the first Bach and never befor invested such amound off money for an 3D Printer after seeing all the positiv Videos about it!
I am always look into customer expiriences before i buy something!
I Bought a lot off extra Stuf and a lot off Bambu Filament with the H2D,
at all around 3000€ spent.
All parts i printed in the 134 first hours was realy good quality i hsad never reached with my Sidwinder X1 before!
And much faster by shure!
But you can realize how i looked after the left Pulley was broken!
Thats realy an Part thats normaly don’t brake, ballbearings will break at any Time because of wear but Pulley? Have never see such damage there 
Thats was something tahts made me real frustrating!
But Bambu told me already this Problem is only on an Batch off Pulley they aware of it! And they also will Replace my Machine if its fail again!
I was wrong has nothing to do with pulleys The Axel was broken!!!
So i will bother now much more about!!!
Now i will fight for refund!!!
No problem. Being from the south “Bless your heart” is an insult wrapped in a white lace glove.
Adding my own H2D experience here.
I bought mine a few months after the release to replace my P1S that I loved and had 2,000 somewhat hours on it.
My experience started out pretty rough, the prints were awful, worse than my P1S and almost as bad as the knock-off Ender 3 I had when I first got into 3D printing. Progressive hardware updates made the print quality better and now it’s the best performing printer I’ve seen in person.
I’ve only had one mechanical failure thankfully, ( compared to some other H2D horror stories on here) The nozzle blocker somehow got caught on the nozzle wiper and bent the blocker completely out of shape, the blocker then tore my buildplate to kingdom-come. Almost had a blob of death happen at the same time due to the print failing.
I contacted support and they were (surprisingly) very helpful they got me a new build plate and nozzle blocker shipped to me within a week.
Overall a mixed experience, but I still love the machine.
I’m glad you mentioned the HF nozzles. I hadn’t thought of that but my few failures have happened with HF nozzles. I stopped using it because I thought I might need only HF filament and there really isn’t a decent selection. Since then, I have also switched to PETG and PCTG because I live in a very hot climate and I print mostly functional outdoor parts. But the HF nozzles were not fun.
You need to be sure to set the nozzle to HF on the printer. You can use any filament that is of good quality. I’ve had best with BL, Sunlu and Polymaker. You can certainly run that PETG through an HF as well.
I am sorry if I missed the subject, but what exactly is not working well? The problem feels somewhat vague to me. It cannot be that bad.
That said, I have had my share of issues as well. However, it is a tool like any other; it needs some tuning. Where it truly shines is print quality. The closed loop system is hard to beat. That said, the H2D does have a few quirks:
1. Ensure the nozzle blocker sits properly over the inactive nozzle. It sometimes bends and sags slightly, which prevents it from fully blocking drips and oozing.
2. Due to whatever is going on in the firmware, the toolhead pauses briefly after a nozzle swap. Because of this, the prime tower is essential.
3. Avoid excessive manual tuning. Run the automatic calibration before printing for good measure. It helps stabilize extrusion and flow.
Regarding the HF nozzles - I also ran into a fair number of issues with HF, even on the P1S. The filament simply is not meant to be melted that way. I honestly thought my printer was defective until I finally went back to the stock nozzle, which I had not even tested initially. A big F.U. to the nozzle mafia, by the way… Obsidian, my arse 
These three are my top H2D-specific checks.
I sold my XL-5-tool and got the H2D. I like it much better. I have about 14 days on it now with no real issues. I print PETG and PLA.
I think my hotend fan is starting to go bad now at least I am upgrading to the h2c soon
A few complaints here warning about the use of HF nozzles. I bought my HF nozzles after seeing that Maxamit had no problems with his even when using abrasive filaments. So I bought mine and have used the .4 with wood filaments, glow-in-the-dark, etc and they have gone for 1,000h on my H2D problem free until today when they finally clogged. I got the “extruder overloaded” error which I am guessing is what the OP had that prompted him to take apart the extruder so early upon getting the machine. I suspected a clog because nothing would come out of the nozzle. But I took apart the extruder for the first time because I figured it was time to learn how to anyway. It was clean. No ptfe or filament shavings contrary to what another poster said was common in these machines. I put everything back together to do a cold pull.
for the first time instead of manually taking out the nozzle to do a cold pull I decided to go through the printer’s toolbox and did a cold pull using the menu and cleaning filament. First time a bunch of black gunk came out, so I did another pull and everything came out clean.
Now everything is fine and I am back in business. Besides today’s incident my H2D has run beautifully. I suspect the OP didn’t have to take apart the extruder so early at fifty hours on one machine and 3h on another but I’m not sure because the issue wasn’t explained at all.
If the H2D and H2C use the same design, then it’s the cable that plugs into the “enhanced cooling capacity” plug on the head. My brand new H2C would jam every single time it cut the line. I noticed all it took was a touch and it would return to open and work. After about 100 times I noticed a bit of plastic seemed to be interfering with the path. Unfortunately that piece of plastic is the flat wire connection to the fans. The smallest motion of pushing it upwards 2 mm so it wouldn’t interfere with the cutter arm caused the entire printer to lock up and refuse to boot past the Bambu Labs screen. No idea what has happened, opened a ticket to try and get this figured out quickly as I have 6 machines and could probably run 10, can’t afford to have the highest end one out for weeks.
After a couple emails with support, they are replacing the machine. I’m glad they stand behind their products, but it does suck having to replace a 3 weeks old machine. My X1C’s have been absolute workhorses with minimal repairs needed.
Unfortunate, as I already bought a few HD nozzles.