Hi everyone, I have the cryogrip Biqu Glacier, and the stock PEI textured bed. I always use the Glacier, but the last few weeks, my prints haven’t been sticking.
E.g. 1: i was printing a rectangle picture frame sliced in half, and as you can see in the photo, the edges lifted
I then started printing an anime figure this week. It has multiple parts, and most of them keep detaching midprint and i get spaghetti errors. I’ve tried printing on both the Glacier, and the PEI texture bed and the prints keep detaching around the same layers, so i don’t think it’s a bed issue, but maybe a printing setting issue
Can anyone give me some advice?
I’ve tried the following, but i’m NOT getting any improvements:
cleaned both beds with soap and warm water (multiple times)
tried IPA alcohol cleaning
Calibrated printer completely
Reduced initial print layer speed to 20-30mm/s
Set the initial layer infil speed to 30-50mm/s
Set Initial layer height to 0,20mm for a thicker line
increased bed temperature settings (i went up in 5 degree increments from 40deg all the way up to 70deg with both plates)
used an adhesive- the prints STILL detached mid print (the adhesive felt like it did nothing)
i haven’t tried a larger brim, but i have added extra supports around that elbow, and it still detached from the bed (this is after washing with soap AND adding an dehsive). Any other suggestions
I’ve even done a print like this with added supports, but it still detaches from the heatbed
Also when i try to edit the brimears, i make the brim larger, but when i slice it, the new brim doesn’t show up. Do you know how to fix this brim issue?
If you want to create a ‚kind of brim‘ to your supports base you could also increase the wideness of the support 1st layer. This adds additional base layers to the support structure equivalent to a brim.
I added a screenshot. It is in German though but I think you‘ll get the setting. It‘s set on -1 for ‚no brim‘ and can be raised to your needs. Then it creates a bigger base for less warping of the support structures.
By the way I find similar issues too on my glacier with the H2C. Quite the opposite was my experience on the X1C. On my Glacier there I was able to nearly print everything no matter what kind of filament.
Try adding a pin or two on the lower arm, maybe the plastic is causing either the upper or the lower arm to move closer to the other part due to a bit of warping. You can use the add part (Cylinder and adjust to size and place between upper and lower arm sections) in the slicer and then cut the pin off after the print has completed